Steve's workshop - Painting the outside walls

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nanscombe":255mua6j said:
It's not often you see men boasting about how small their's is compared to someone else's. :lol:

Well the "Look how big mine is!" prize has been well and truly claimed by S.Maskery.
 
Over and above the size I have to say it is looking a very professional environment. In particular I do like that flooring, I think I'm going to have to get some of that.

Steve, I presume as you have not returned to the topic gain any concerns about the insulation under the floor being able to manage the wight on top of it are long forgotten?

Terry.
 
Wizard9999":x42r8vla said:
Over and above the size I have to say it is looking a very professional environment. In particular I do like that flooring, I think I'm going to have to get some of that.

Steve, I presume as you have not returned to the topic gain any concerns about the insulation under the floor being able to manage the wight on top of it are long forgotten?

The heaviest things in the workshop are the TS, BS and bench and so far there have been no problems. Early days, I guess, but certainly there are no signs at all of anything amiss. If you use this kind of flooring, I don't think you will be disappointed. I'm not, anyway, not yet.
 
So let's fast forward a few weeks and the workshop is finished, Steve is all settled in.
What are you making first Steve ??
Pray tell :?:
 
... A trip to the travel agent to book a holiday to recover from the building process I would imagine. :lol:
 
Well I started to make a coffee table in pippy oak. I've made the top and breadboard ends at the Community Workshop It's not finished, but the bulk of the work is done. I've also cut some QS veneers but I've done a lousy job of it, so rather than making my QS oak go further, I suspect I've wasted it :(
 
I spent Monday faffing about with the alarm system. I suspect that it is a very good piece of kit, but the documentation that comes with is is absolutely dire. It's not been written by someone for whom English is their first language, there is no proper manual (not even on line) and the Easy Start manual has entries in the Table of Contents which do not exist in the actual text. I used to write technical manuals and this is the worst I've ever seen. The instructions for mounting the sensors, for example, are for a previous model and bear no resemblance to the product in the box.

Also, instead of an Easy Lock turn-button, which the old model had, to fix the circuit board into the body, the later model has the CB screwed in place. The screw is about 5 or 6mm long and thinner than a meccano bolt. It's sited hard up against the battery housing, so you can't use you fingers to manipulate it into position very easily. So there I am, up a ladder, trying to insert a tiny, tiny screw horizontally into an inaccessible hole. If I dropped it there is not snowball in Hades chance of finding it. It's a fantastic triumph of accountancy over engineering.

The unfortunate guy whose job it is to man the customer support desk could not have been more helpful, so I do have the proper manual as a PDF, but it is still for the old model of sensor, but at least the English is English. When I pointed out the inadequate nature of the documentation he did not seem the least bit surprised.

So at least I now have the info I need to configure it how I want it.

................

Ray came today, to do the outside lights. I was expecting to do those myself, but he wanted to come over so who am I to argue? As usual, it was Ray up the ladder while I was Gopher-in-Chief. I can't complete the front cladding until I have the window frames in place, so this is a temporary mounting. So we put up some blocks to fill what will be the void behind the cladding.

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But then we realised that the cable needs to come out in the middle of the mounting, not under the bottom. So we replaced the blocks with two pieces of slate lath with a gap in between.

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I'd bought the lights themselves a few months ago when they were closing my local Homebase. There is a backplate and the main unit fits over it and is fixed with two tiny, tiny decorative nuts. Which we dropped. So two of us were on our knees sweeping the mud and what is left of the grass with a magnet. Eventually I spotted it, it had bounced quite a way and landed in the snow ridge formed when yesterday's snow slid of the roof.

I'd bought a double switch plate, so I could have both switches just inside the door. Unfortunately I had cracked the back box when I dropped something on it and as we removed the switch plate the back box broke, so I had to make an emergency visit to Screwfix. By the time I had got back, Ray had finished the rest of the cabling and the light was fading. We fixed up the switch, turned on the leccy and - nothing. The MCB trips every time we switch it on. Unfortunately it was getting too late to find out what the problem was, so I have an outside light circuit which I can't yet use but it is not affecting any other part of my electrics. It's a pity, because it would be very useful. Still, it's nearly there and will look very nice, I think.

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Remember my floor? My nice, grippy, grey floor that I decided I should grout? Well I think I've ruined it. I've certainly ruined my saucepan.

I bought some grout and mixed up half a bag in an old saucepan I had kept for just such jobs. It was far too much for one session. The gaps are very small, nothing bigger an a mm or so and in many places I can't get a fingernail in. I applied it with filler knife and got it everywhere. It all looked right mess when I finished.

In fact, about half way through I wondered about not mixing it at all, just brushing in dry grout. I'd phoned Eric the Viking for a chat and he suggested the same, so I did some of it like that.

I've not done the whole floor, only about half, my knees couldn't stand it any more. So when I packed up last night I wondered what it was going to look like. I forgot about the saucepan until later in the evening, by which time it was dark and cold and I had no intention of going down the garden, so it was no surprise when I went down this morning to find it solid in the pan. But worse, the floor looked horrible.

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and scrubbing just seemed to make matters worse

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The only saving grace of it all is that where the grout has dried and I've cleaned up best I can, it looks as if it will actually come clean, given enough Flash. But it's a mile back to the kitchen to change the bucket of water.

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I wish I'd just left it and let normal dirt and detritus fill the cracks and I'm going to wait until what I have done has fully cured and see what it really does look like before I do any more.

I've been out and bought some skirting and architrave this afternoon.
 

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Think you'll find that over time the grout, which is ridged when dry, will simply crack out of the joints with the movement of the floor Steve,
The over spread will wash off if it's not too thick, or you could try grout remover.
If you still want to fill the remaining joints I'd suggest you masking tape both sides of the joints & force a flexible filler into the joint with a knife, then remove the tapes before the filler completely cures.
 
You could paint the floor with a epoxy paint Steve I know this is added expence that you could do without but it will cover the grout and also give addaed durablity to your floor

Regards Geordie
 
Hi Steve, after a month or so you'll probably not notice it and for sure no visitors will either. Its a mistake and you learn from it.
I would recommend Sikaflex , you should be able to get it grey in a tube or sausage, should be good up to 3-4 cms wide. Apply it, smooth over with a small spatula. Dont play with it too much and maybe leave ever so slightly proud. When it dries after 24 hours or so it can be sanded. It can be used on concrete as well.

Remember saucpans are for cooking with. (hammer) .

Good luck with the rest of it.

Danny
 
Reading the title I had visions of a toppled machine and a hole in the floor!

I think ruined is a bit strong, granted it's not gone perfectly but very little does first time around.

It's still an awesome space
 
I think, with the great benefit of hindsight, that I should have used two tubes when laying the boards. One tube would be the adhesive, on the T&G, but lay a fine bead of grey flexible mastic, such as I am using for the gap between the floor and the door cill. That would get squeezed out as we went along and could be wiped up as we went. It would have been a much better job.

Too late for me, but it might help someone else.
 
Oh well buy lots and lots of boards and put in a wooden floor. I would like one myself but I've already gone too far, gotta live with the concrete now.
 
Hi Steve, I don't know what process you've used but I've grouted a gazillion floors and walls. I wish you'd asked.

The process is:
Mix the grout to a toothpaste texture and feed it into the joints using one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Grounting-Flo ... 2ecf278477 It acts as a sqeegee and removes 95% of the remaining grout on the tile (floor) surface.
Allow it to set up for ten mins then wash the grouted area with a sponge (not too wet or you'll wash out the grout in the joints). Use a circular motion then you're less likely to wipe down one of the joints and clean it out. Keep some mix to hand incase this happens.
I use one of these. It's more practical for regular use and cleans the sponge better than wringing. This is the first one I found on Ebay, you can get them for half the price.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rubi-Rubiclea ... 20f387ba98

Now here's the best bit as far as you're concerned.
There will still be a residue on the tile surface after washing the bulk off. No matter how many times you try and wash this residue off it doesn't go. The way to get rid is to let it dry completely and simply wipe with a dry cloth. Dig out an old towel and try that and see if it lifts the remaining stain. You'll need to keep shaking it out of a window as it soon fills with dust.

As mentioned earlier grout sets up really hard and is brittle, unless your floor is guaranteed not to flex it's likely to crack.

This guy 'rinses' 4/5 times https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ouw7KAlkD3U then uses a dry towel the following day!!! Obviously doesn't make his living tiling! Go to 6 minutes in to see the clean up process.
So does this guy who is obviously a pro https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiFErZa ... 1421914688

I'm astounded! Here's some of my stuff washed once then dry polished, all done in one hour.
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Give the dry polish a try Steve. Good luck.
 

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Well I'm not working on it today, I'm making Eccles cakes and then going out for a singing session, but I've just been down to have a look. It's not too bad. There is some staining on the boards along the grout lines, but the dry grout just sweeps up and it looks OK. I think a towel is a good idea. Thanks Graham.

I think I've got a few areas a bit too wet when I was trying to clean. It feels as if they have swollen a bit, I'll know better tomorrow when I do some more work. But at least it's not totally wrecked.

S
 
Your workshop is looking great, don't worry too much about the floor I am sure no one will notice. For future reference though a couple of small points. Firstly you made things harder for yourself by laying the boards with the grooved edge outwards, if you set off tongue out, so to speak you are applying glue to the previously fixed board and not handling a board covered in wet glue. It also makes it much easier to get your last board in. Secondly those type of boards are usually stuck together with d4 adhesive which foams up and fills any gaps and can be scraped off the top afterwards, thus leaving a gapless finish. I know pictures can be misleading but it looks to me as though you didn't put nearly enough glue into your joints, it should squeeze out of the joint as you pull it up tight.
Anyway, hope you find some of this of interest, I am really enjoying your build, be pleased to see it up and running.
Neil.
 

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