Simple Burglar Alarm for Workshop

[Fergie 307]

You could probably repurpose a car courtesy light switch to work on the door with a relay and big horn for something really simple, although unless you incorporate a latched relay then just shutting the door again would turn it off. And if you do use a latched relay then once activated someone would need to reset it.
Another option is just to get a flashing led, you can get 12v ones or self contained units that work off an AA battery or similar. Some "Alarmed" stickers and that may be enough to persuade them to look elsewhere.

 

[Fergie 307]

Dampdog2013 is an e bay seller who does kits. Both my alarms are based on his box. Alarm input is a 12v DC feed, so can be adapted to work with PIR, switches etc. the siren he does is pretty loud, although I have used his output to fire up a much bigger one through a relay.

 

[Chubber]

Don't forget hinge bolts, inexpensive, supplement your locks.

Internal Sonic 'bombs' on a key/hidden switch delay (like some narrowboat owners have)

Sorry, just seen above.

 

[JoeS]

Dampdog2013 is an e bay seller who does kits. Both my alarms are based on his box. Alarm input is a 12v DC feed, so can be adapted to work with PIR, switches etc. the siren he does is pretty loud, although I have used his output to fire up a much bigger one through a relay.

Great recommendation - I'm going to order the light/siren from him.

Got some great ideas on here and I'm going to put something together with a 12v key switch.

 

[JoeS]

Don't forget hinge bolts, inexpensive, supplement your locks.

Internal Sonic 'bombs' on a key/hidden switch delay (like some narrowboat owners have)

Sorry, just seen above.

Good idea on the hinge bolts - just ordered some - great idea.

 

[Fergie 307]

I would spend a couple of quid on a flashing led. You can wire that into the box and mount it on the outside of the building. That way you have a good visual indication when it's live.

 

[Fergie 307]

You can also modify PIR units by gluing a piece of tube on the dome. Reduces their sensitivity and range so they can be used like a proximity sensor. You can experiment with different sizes and lengths of tube. About 10mm ID and 20mm long range reduced to about 6-8 feet and maybe 10°.
Position somewhere that someone needs to walk past to get to whatever you are protecting. Reduced range means much less likely to have false alarms. Handy in situations where a beam isn't practicable.

 

[Stevekane]

When I first joined this forum a few years ago I posted about a motorcycle alarm bought cheaply from ebay and which is still working perfectly to this day, the make was from memory, Winoma and it is a sophiticated vibration/ movment sensor, it came with a siren and remote control, touching the shed door sets of the siren which runs through a series of whoops and police siren sounds before resetting itself if left alone. Its designed for fitting to a motorbike but I run mine from a bell transformer. In truth the siten is uncomfortable but not extreamly loud, but in the middle of the night, when your trying to creep about burgaling I would think it would make you scarper. The great thing is it does its job before they have smashed there way in.

 

[Fergie 307]

That's why I like the beams and or proximity sensors. Sets it off before they have had a chance.

 

[Dabop]

The shed I mentioned before that I made the alarm up for is my stepfathers (with some VERY nice kit inside) less than two weeks after having it built and moving everything inside, it was (successfully) broken into- by them putting a pipe wrench on the factory doorknob and simply twisting it off!!!
I went digging through my old photos and found the pics he took of his 'upgrades' after I fitted the alarm...

Being the inventive (and rather nitpicking) guy he is, this was his 'security upgrade' to the shed door...

That's shown in the 'open the door' mode- the 5mm thick metal plate slides to the left and is locked by a high security padlock in the closed position- once you get it to that 'open' position, you insert the key in the keyhole to the right, and put 'the handle' into the round hole to unlock the door...

This is what that handle does inside the door...

Yeah- seriously- thats a bloody SHED door...


All hand built, including the locking mechanism for the door- the only thing 'bought' was the key lock itself!!! (plus the entire shed is lined inside with 3mm thick steel plate!!!)

Even trying to take the hinge pins out won't work- as those 'tongues' on the right of the door lock into 'lock holes' on the inside of the door frame when closed... and the sliding tongues on the left do the same on the other side when moved by the handles...

There's an alarm on there as well (but not one on the house- guess he knows his priorities lol)

It would take you an hour to get into it with an anglegrinder...

What can I say- he is a perfectionist in everything he makes...

(After 20 years, they haven't gotten into it once since his 'upgrades' lol)

 

[TomGW]

I have a friend whose son is an electronic engineer and he rigged up a deterrent for the dad's commercial workshop. In addition to the regular alarm system he has a motion activated dog noise system inside the workshop. This is set off by motion outside and is highly realistic. It sounds like two dogs inside running around the place, not just barking but vicious growling. There is a series of speakers with some at ground level at the back of the door where the growls come from. This gives the effect of the dogs moving around inside the building. In the midst of the dog noise there's a clatter that sounds like something has been knocked over inside. Standing outside you would swear there's at least two Doberman inside. When it goes quiet for a moment and then there's a snuffle and huge growl at ankle level from the other side of a roller shutter door it helps focus the mind. A couple of large chains and big bone outside helps paint the picture. It has been set up so it all happens randomly and is realistic.
It's set up so that the 'dogs' kick off first, before the PIR outside lights come on. Then the sound of a phone ringing happens after a minute or so - suggests that an alarm system is being monitored remotely and somebody trying to contact a key holder. It all adds to the notion that their presence outside is not going unnoticed. Just walking up to the door at night time makes you feel like a criminal.
I know that it's a custom installation and not simply an off-the-peg product but it wasn't costly in terms of all the bits needed. Just a decent amount of thought and ingenuity.
There hasn't been a break-in at his place while other similar premises have suffered. CCTV has confirmed a few 'visits' that were quickly abandoned.

 

[Sideways]

Inspired !

 

[Spectric]

If you want some good door bolts then look at these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Garage-Bol...lts&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1731932674&sr=8-5

Fitted on the inside so nothing visible.

 

[Agent_zed]

You should have the doors like on the men's cubicles in the loos at the watershed venue in bristol. They are made of 5mm stainless steel!!!
I hope I never get stuck in there as it would take some doing to get out. Must have cost a fortune and weigh a ton.