Record Power BS400 Bandsaw Review

[Alexam]

That's an interesting one and I would be interested on the answer. I have the same machine and the blades have plenty of clearance.

Alex

 

[woodpig]

It has been suggested that the quoted maximum blade size is often somewhat optimistic, at least to get the best from the machine. On this basis I wouldn't expect to run anything bigger than 3/4" on the BS400. If you regularly need to run a 1" wide blade it may have been better to look at the Startrite range. We had a 401E where I used to work and that worked well with a 1" blade. It may be worth speaking to Ian at Tuffsaws to see what he has to say if Record can't help?

 

[sploo]

It has been suggested that the quoted maximum blade size is often somewhat optimistic, at least to get the best from the machine. On this basis I wouldn't expect to run anything bigger than 3/4" on the BS400. If you regularly need to run a 1" wide blade it may have been better to look at the Startrite range. We had a 401E where I used to work and that worked well with a 1" blade. It may be worth speaking to Ian at Tuffsaws to see what he has to say if Record can't help?

Indeed. My BS300 claims 3/4", but, errr... don't do that (bitter experience). 5/8" is a sensible limit.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

It has been suggested that the quoted maximum blade size is often somewhat optimistic, at least to get the best from the machine. On this basis I wouldn't expect to run anything bigger than 3/4" on the BS400. If you regularly need to run a 1" wide blade it may have been better to look at the Startrite range. We had a 401E where I used to work and that worked well with a 1" blade. It may be worth speaking to Ian at Tuffsaws to see what he has to say if Record can't help?

That was also my experience with the BS300 and its been echoed many times by others (incl of course Sploo right here), but in the case of the 400, as documented earlier in this thread, I was pleasantly surprised by the fact it DID take a 1".
I took considerable pains in this review to be truly objective ie only report observable/measurable results to remove any subjective bias. As mentioned, even I expected the manufacturers claims to be exaggerated by 1/4", hence I would agree that I would expect 3/4" to the rightful max of the 400.

All that Ash you see ripped to a foot thick at the start was done with a 1.3tpi 1" blade from Tuffsaws. I use that spec blade for all green wood "lumpy" work because it truly is an absolute animal and eats anything in its path. I've never had any problems associated with it so I can only conclude the problems are a defect or setup issue. Alan from RP is a good, solid bloke, I'm pretty sure he'll sort it out.

 

[pike]

I got a BS400 last week. Thanks to Snainton Woodworking Supplies and Bob here!

I've never had a bandsaw before but it's long been my plan to put one in my new workshed. So far I'm just learning how to fettle it. I maybe received one of a new batch of Record stock? and unless I'm misunderstanding the thing about the fence not being removable without opening the top door, my fence is exactly the right size to lift away no problems without having to open the door. If that's a new improvement then I wonder if anything else has changed.

I cut a 1mm oak veneer today. Which tells me I'm getting some things right, although still a complete BS novice

As others have said, tensioning is so far the thing I got wrong initially. It seems to take a while to realise how out the built in meter is and that you need to tighten up quite a bit more usually. Also the tuffsaw blade I have needs tensioning more anyway as it is thinner.

I'd like to be able to rip accurately in 1 inch oak and then finish with a quick run on the planer. That's the next thing I'll be trying, to see if I can avoid having a tablesaw (instead using the BS400 and a track saw).

 

[Alexam]

Nice one pike. It's a lovely bandsaw.

Regarding tuning it up, Alex Snodgrass of Carter Induistries has an excellent video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU that works well and if you want to get the best use of your bandsaw on an ongoing basis, then the Steve Maskery DVD's will show you far more and they are a real investment. http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/ '.

Good luck

Alex

 

[Jmac80]

My cuts seem to be pretty wobbly/wavy from the bandsaw lately?
Also does anyone know of any ceramic guides/blocks that can be used instead of the roller bearings?

 

[sploo]

My cuts seem to be pretty wobbly/wavy from the bandsaw lately?
Also does anyone know of any ceramic guides/blocks that can be used instead of the roller bearings?

Wobbly/wavy cuts are most likely a dull blade or (under) tensioning issue, but there's no reason ceramic guides couldn't be used (I don't know a compatible brand/model though).

 

[Jmac80]

My cuts seem to be pretty wobbly/wavy from the bandsaw lately?
Also does anyone know of any ceramic guides/blocks that can be used instead of the roller bearings?

Wobbly/wavy cuts are most likely a dull blade or (under) tensioning issue, but there's no reason ceramic guides couldn't be used (I don't know a compatible brand/model though).

Thanks
It's brand new blade, will up the tension and retry.
Would love to get some ceramic guides!

 

[sploo]

My cuts seem to be pretty wobbly/wavy from the bandsaw lately?
Also does anyone know of any ceramic guides/blocks that can be used instead of the roller bearings?

Wobbly/wavy cuts are most likely a dull blade or (under) tensioning issue, but there's no reason ceramic guides couldn't be used (I don't know a compatible brand/model though).

Thanks
It's brand new blade, will up the tension and retry.
Would love to get some ceramic guides!

This link may be useful regarding understanding blade behaviour: http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/resaw.html

I would like to replace the guides on my BS300, probably with good bearings like woodpig's design (post940151.html#p940151). I've not seen ceramic blocks for Record saws - though I'd admit I've not looked hard.

 

[Wizard465]

Hi All

New to the forum so dont mind me, just got my BS400 yesterday but seem to have quite a bit of vibration when running, any advice on this would be great.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

call Alan at Record Power on Monday. Highly likely to be that the stand isn't touching ground at all four corners. is it on uneven ground? Shim it where not if that's the case

 

[Wizard465]

I actually have it on the jockey wheel kit and yes the floor is uneven, i have shimmed one end but maybe there is still some movement somewhere, thanks for the reply.

 

[CHJ]

...It's brand new blade, will up the tension and retry.
Would love to get some ceramic guides!

A sharp Blade under reasonable tension should cut straight without guides as long as you don't force the work piece.

It does not take much of a discrepancy in the right and left offset of the teeth or lack of sharpness to cause significant drift.

You don't say what brand your blades are but not all brand new blades are as sharp as they could be.

A fellow forum member recently sent me this link which I can confirm does what it says on the tin as far as upping the performance of a blade, the only thing I would have added is that for best sharpness and minimum metal removal a very fine grinding wheel is used.

 

[pike]

I took the wheel kit off in the first few days. Found it made the whole thing unstable.

 

[Alexam]

Hi All

New to the forum so dont mind me, just got my BS400 yesterday but seem to have quite a bit of vibration when running, any advice on this would be great.

My BS400 is the same, as the floor is not always completly level at all corners. I move it around until it is stable, by shaking it until it has no rock at all and then used a marker pen to draw around the base so that I can put the machine in the same position again. I actually have 3 positions outlined. Without wheels you wouldn't be able to move it around, but that may be ok for you. I need to move mine as it's in a garage where we put the cars.

 

[Wizard9999]

Hi All

New to the forum so dont mind me, just got my BS400 yesterday but seem to have quite a bit of vibration when running, any advice on this would be great.

My BS400 is the same, as the floor is not always completly level at all corners. I move it around until it is stable, by shaking it until it has no rock at all and then used a marker pen to draw around the base so that I can put the machine in the same position again. I actually have 3 positions outlined. Without wheels you wouldn't be able to move it around, but that may be ok for you. I need to move mine as it's in a garage where we put the cars.

Similar issue, I found that putting a wedge under one of the back wheels made a world of difference.

Terry.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I concur with Alexam's view also. Keeping the wheel kit in place is useful precisely because you're able to manoeuvre the machine onto a sweet spot where the ground is sufficiently level. His idea of simply taking a sharpie and marking the wheels and/or corners when in position of a sweet spot is of course a good one and saves faffing in the future. Of course, it being a bandsaw, cutting a very fine tapering wedge isn't exactly difficult even if you cant find a level piece of ground

Chas...that sharpening YT you linked is the very one that Ian from Tuffsaws recommends.

 

[n0legs]

Clear and informative review Bob =D>

So, this extra dust extraction pipe set up.
It's not worth trying to emulate it, on machines not having it?

 

[CHJ]

.....
Chas...that sharpening YT you linked is the very one that Ian from Tuffsaws recommends.

So I gather, but hearsay to me. I used to give the blades a spruce up by turning inside-out and running backwards on the machine with a grinding block.

The video method avoids extra messing with the machine setup and I've found it to be superior in results because I have a very fine stone (Ex-Horizontal grinding machine) on one of my grinders.

I do also reset any blades * (if they can be) that have caught a nasty in a piece of wood before tipping.

*I predominantly use blades with low tooth count and large kerf so not too onerous.