Because I simply can't carry one around on site! (And in any case a standard sliding carriage panel saw such as a Panhans or Altendorf is arguably more accurate) As I said a track saw doesn't need to be a £1k top of the range set-up (maybe that is your perception) - it can be as simple as a length of 6mm plywood with a piece of 2 x 1 PSE screwed to one edge used with a low cost portable rip saw. That set-up will be a lot safer than trying to handle large size sheet materials on a standard table saw.
As to Biesmeyer style fences, they are dangerous for the reasons stated by others above. It is pretty simple to make them a lot safer by planting an auxiliary short rip fence on the face of the rip fence plate thus making, in effect, a "short rip fence"
I'd also argue that at least to a joiner or carpenter a crosscut saw (mitre saw) is far more useful than a table saw, given that a joiner or carpenter is likely to own one or more portable rip saws together with safety/material size issues
I find you to be extremely defensive of a set up which has, to me at least, some very obvious shortcomings which you seem unwilling to defend or discuss without resorting to villifying me. So just what are the advantages (and shortfalls) of your approach, then?
I apologize for getting a little hot under the collar. I perceived your comments as a blanket condemnation of the use of sleds when you don't/ haven't used them. I shouldn't have done so.
We are not all professionals doing business either/or in a factory or on site. While I would love to have an Attendorf or any other slider I can't afford one nor would the floor of my shop support one. The wife would throw a fit if it dropped through and crushed her car unless I was under it.
While I do have a cheap track saw I rarely use it. I find it time consuming to set up for accurate cuts so reserve it for angled cuts across sheet goods or when it is too heavy to move, 25mm MDF for example. I also use it on rare occasions to rip an edge to straighten a board when cleaning up a bandsaw cut might not leave enough width. A rare occurrence.
I have one of the first basic miter saws that doesn't compound or slid and the only use it gets is is rough work outside for making a shed or deck but it is largely unused. It is small and doesn't take up much space so I keep it.
I can use a circular saw to shorten longer boards 10' or more to more manageable sizes but handsaws work just as well for the purpose.
So my mainstay is the table saw. The large Saw Stop cabinet type actually. I attach a short fence when ripping and keep the riving knife on for buried cuts or when cutting where the guard with splitter and anti-kickback pawls won't work. The guard is on otherwise. The fence you describe is fine for sheet goods when used properly but not good for solid wood that can pinch the blade.
The sleds come into play because they will allow better support, carrying both parts (work and waste) through the cut without splintering like a mitre gauge can. With temporary locators nailed, hot glued or two sided taped down, can allow safe hands off cuts at any position or blade angle that would be awkward and unsafe with a mitre gauge and it can hold awkward shapes like round that could never be done with a mitre gage. Different sleds, large and small, or purpose built can be made as needed and can be hung or stored along a wall several deep so they don't take up a lot of room. The only downsides to them is that the slot and fence can wear out from lots of use and blade tilting. When that happens it isn't a big deal to make another. The other downside is the depth of cut is reduced buy the thickness of the sheet it is made from. My buddy has made them from .125"/3mm aluminium sheet to minimize the depth of cut problem but I'd rather not risk tripping the blade brake on my saw so I use plywood. My father used one in his antique repair and refinishing business because of the versatility and I for the same reasons for over 40 years.
Pete
