1962 Meddings Dril-tru Drill Press (Mk2 9373/LT/II) light restoration

[Fergie 307]

Interesting. When you say a cheap variable voltage supply, do you mean something like this;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363438572133?hash=item549ea08265:g:1WcAAOSwojpgzI2F
I had seen people doing it with phone chargers. When you say to make sure that the rod is the same material - I'm a bit confused. I assume you mean that in a nickel acetate solution you can only use a nickel anode, and in a copper acetate solution you can only use a copper anode? Otherwise you get contamination and the plating won't work.

I imagine that I'll just buy strip nickel/copper so it can be bent over the edge of the jar and the crocodile clips attached to the outside.

When you say 'shrink wrap over the rod so it can be held' - what are you referring to there? Is that to avoid any shocks?

And at 3V, how long would you leave the average part to be coated, so it can be subsequently polished?

Many thanks.

Shrink wrap not to avoid a shock, the power is too low, but does ensure the current stays where you want it rather than being dissipated through you!

 

[Fergie 307]

That's much more succinct than my effort Yes - 'Tailoring the input' - was what we did but of course this was a full commercial enterprise making gauges and we could control both Amps & Volts (IIRC) to a very high precision. I distinctly remember having to set up some 20BA thread gauges to be chrome plated inside!! the bore on those is 0.34mm and I had to put a wire cathode inside making sure that it didn't touch the thread


No correction needed (except to the typo ) as far as I can tell - My time in that shop was only about 3 months and I haven't done any plating since but it was a very memorable time.

Shrink wrap not to avoid a shock, the power is too low, but does ensure the current stays where you want it rather than being dissipated through you!

If you buy acommercial brush plating kit then the anode is contaned in a plastic hosing, like a cheap ball point pen. The better ones have screw on tips to take different material ends, or a carbon fibre core which works with anything. I just use a rod of the appropriate material and solder a lead to it with a plug on the end to mate with the + wire. Another thing you can try as a preparation is to put the piece to be plated in a bath of spirit vinegar and a pinch of salt, the salt inmproves electrical conductivity. Then set it up with the item you are preparing connected to + , so your item becomes the anode. This will effectively strip a tiny amount off the surface, taking any invisible surface oxidisation with it. After a couple of minutes take it out and rinse with distilled water, then into your plating tank. I sometimes use this technique on pocket watch cases where it can be very difficult to thoroughly clean the area under the pendant joint. Practice makes perfect and as I say if you get a patchy or sreaky finish that is generally because there is contamination on the surface. To give you an idea i would put watch parts through a watch cleaning solution, then a second wash in pure alcohol. Both times 10 minutes in an ultrasonic cleaner at 30 degrees. Then carry out any remedial work and polishing, then repeat the cleaning process again before plating. Anyone contemplating this with a watch note that you must not normally subject the pallet fork or balance staff to this method of cleaning as the jewels on these components are typically held in with shellac, which will dissolve causing the jewels to fall off, a major PITA!

 

[SledDriver]

Polishing should be done BEFORE plating (as Fergie 307 has said) (though some buffing may be done afterward)

The Voltage is not the important value - AMPERAGE and Area being plated are the figures you need to determine 'how long' to obtain a particular thickness.

I've forgotten most of what I learned during my time in the plating shop as an apprentice in the 50's but I do remember that we had to calculate the total surface area and then work out the time needed at what Amps to achieve the specified thickness. I also remember that we were working to extremely high precision - ie. millionths of an inch.

I can't tell you precisely how this relates to - and will give you actual figures for - laying down (say)10µm on to (say) 100mm² but you will see what information you need to find out.

Shrink wrap not to avoid a shock, the power is too low, but does ensure the current stays where you want it rather than being dissipated through you!

Thanks for the input. I've ordered a few bits to have a go. Might try that next week.

Without trying to sound dismissive, I'll likely just try and fudge it and see how I get on. I definitely won't be doing any formulae! I'll get it through trial and error.

I've made some good progress on the drill. The quill was reinserted, and the spring assembly and handle assembly were both fitted (which holds it all in). The finished depth stop and collar were fitted to the quill shaft. I reassembled the base, column, table and head, finally fitting the motor mount and various bolts.

After disassembly and cleaning I reattached the chuck. The various felt gaskets are just stiff craft felt. They only serve to avoid banging painted pieces together.

There were very few issues. All I would say is that I made the column marginally too smooth (or gave it too much oil to prevent rust) which means that you currently have to crank down a bit on the table tightening handle or it has a tendency to slip easily. I won't do anything to remedy it - as the oil gets a little sticky that will go away on its own.

I've got to do the handles (remove the old plating, polish, then attempt to nickel plate). I also haven't tackled the motor yet. Please so far though;

 

[Orraloon]

That's scrubbed up rather well.
Regards
John

 

[Fergie 307]

Other option is just to replace the handles. I have an old sealey and just replaced the handles with stainless bar appropriately threaded at either end.

 

[SledDriver]

Finally got the motor apart today, and two new rubber sealed bearings ordered so they'll likely never be touched again!

I'm curious as to how best to clean the internals. I'm leaning towards a wipe with some isopropyl alcohol or acetone or something. It doesn't seem that dirty. Even just a damp cloth perhaps? I guess I could buy some contact cleaner like this?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/wd-40-specialist-contact-cleaner-400ml/92716
I don't know what the purple stuff is on the rotor.

I'm also getting ready to rewire the drill, but don't know much about electrics so I'd like some advice.

It's a single phase motor, and the old cabling is 3 core (red/black/green) which I understand to be pre-1977 colours. The rubber insulation is failing so I'm hoping to replace the lot with new cable.

With that in mind, what am I looking for in a cable? I would guess something like this?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/time-3183p-black-3-core-1-5mm-flexible-cable-10m-coil/994jy
Questions;

- I see options of 0.75mm, 1.5mm and 2.5mm. I'll be wiring it into a standard UK plug. What is the proper option?
- There are options of rubber or PVC coatings. Any reason to choose one over the other?
- Is there anything to watch out for when rewiring these things?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

2.5mm is large to get into a plug, 1.5mm I'd think better. The dial switch on mine failed so I replaced it with a standard no volt switch - iirc the switch can be wired for three phase so mark the terminals as you disconnect them.
You'll find out anyway. Be careful if you rewire to get the flex out of the way of the column - mine was pinched between the head casting and the column, how it didn't short I don't know. Is there nowhere locally you buy a couple of metres of flex?

 

[SledDriver]

2.5mm is large to get into a plug, 1.5mm I'd think better. The dial switch on mine failed so I replaced it with a standard no volt switch - iirc the switch can be wired for three phase so mark the terminals as you disconnect them.
You'll find out anyway. Be careful if you rewire to get the flex out of the way of the column - mine was pinched between the head casting and the column, how it didn't short I don't know. Is there nowhere locally you buy a couple of metres of flex?

Thanks for this. I'll use the 1.5mm. I've already taken the old wiring out and have hopefully taken sufficient photos of where everything went! It worked before I disconnected it all anyway.

I'll be careful of the column, but I think the way it runs on this one means it shouldn't get in the way. I'll run the cable with the head on of the column to avoid any issues.

I really don't know if there's anywhere I can buy the cable by the metre. That one from Screwfix seems to be the cheapest I can find for a shortish length.

 

[Fergie 307]

Pre paint wipe. You can buy it at any place that sells car paint, or online. Brilliant for jobs like this, i just put things like this in a big old plastic water tank and blast it with the fluid in a gun on the compressor. Removes all the gunk without damaging anything and leaves no residue.

 

[Jester129]

Wilkinsons sell cable by the metre.......HTH

 

[stuffys]

Evening SledDriver
Thank you for sharing all your info/updates on the restoration it has been soo informative. I have recently come into possession of much newer model of the Meddings Driltru...Feb 64
I have started to dismantle and love your 'placing on paper and writing what/where' technique. Have copied and are near completion of the dismantling. I had the exact same problem with removing my pulley attached to the motor, the gib head key was damaged. So far I have noticed two things missing and one big problem.
Missing is my depth gauge and the chuck key, both I can replace. The problem was the motor might be dead, first time I turned it on, it started for about 5 seconds and then stoped. Next time I changed the plug fuse and tried again. Tripped the garage and the whole house, my better half was not impressed, it was late at night. The cable seem damaged, so I have purchased replacement and finger crossed replacing it should work. Found out a neighbour wires motor for a living so he might be able to have a look. Going to bother you with a few of questions-
How are you getting on with the rewiring?
Are you changing the bearings in the motor?
The new bearings you already fitted, did you get from Meddings? what size are the? How much?
Thanks again for sharing all your hard work, you have done an amazing job.
Michael.

 

[Cabinetman]

Wilkinsons sell cable by the metre.......HTH

Beat me to it, yes good old Wilko's, you want rubber covered, I agree 1.5mm. Super rebuild, lovely solid bit of kit. Ian
Ps that steal of a grinder/polisher looks the biz, can’t wait to see your treatment done to it.

 

[Westwood]

Thats superb work and great inspiration for others , thank you for sharing
Now you've got a well made and fully restored British pillar drill.
Only wish I was better at and had the confidence to tackle the many steps you describe and show.
I have a smaller basic NuTool CH10 and a Burgess small bandsaw waiting to be restored

 

[SledDriver]

Evening SledDriver
Thank you for sharing all your info/updates on the restoration it has been soo informative. I have recently come into possession of much newer model of the Meddings Driltru...Feb 64
I have started to dismantle and love your 'placing on paper and writing what/where' technique. Have copied and are near completion of the dismantling. I had the exact same problem with removing my pulley attached to the motor, the gib head key was damaged. So far I have noticed two things missing and one big problem.
Missing is my depth gauge and the chuck key, both I can replace. The problem was the motor might be dead, first time I turned it on, it started for about 5 seconds and then stoped. Next time I changed the plug fuse and tried again. Tripped the garage and the whole house, my better half was not impressed, it was late at night. The cable seem damaged, so I have purchased replacement and finger crossed replacing it should work. Found out a neighbour wires motor for a living so he might be able to have a look. Going to bother you with a few of questions-
How are you getting on with the rewiring?
Are you changing the bearings in the motor?
The new bearings you already fitted, did you get from Meddings? what size are the? How much?
Thanks again for sharing all your hard work, you have done an amazing job.
Michael.

Hi. Thanks for your message, I'm glad you're making good progress on your drill.

Regarding the rewiring, I replaced the old cable with modern 1.5mm 3-core, but my knowledge of how to do so was just a case of taking plenty of photos prior to removing the previous wiring, then being careful to put it all back together in the same manner. I've attached a few photos I took during the process which might be of some assistance to you (to see if yours is wired the same). The first two are from the motor itself once you remove the bottom access plate;

Edit: I see your switch is different from mine! Mine has 4 positions - two of them on, two of them off. I have no idea why, as yours appears to just have two options. So the photos below likely don't bear much relevance.

This first image is what you're presented with after removing the access plate. The first wires to remove are the 3-core from the cable which enters the side of the motor through the rubber grommet you can just see in the bottom right of the photo (the other end of this cable goes into the switch);

This second image is what you see when you've removed the switch/motor cable, and you're left with the connection from the windings; I can't tell you the orientation of each wire (i.e. which black wire is which), because I just marked one of each with paint pen prior to disassembly and replaced as appropriate. Note that all of these wires must be disconnected prior to taking apart the case.

The next photos are from the switch.

The first photo is how the cable from the motor (from the first photo above) attaches to the switch;

This next photo is how the wall power cable attaches to the other side of the switch;

Not the best of photos but short of taking it apart that's the best I can suggest. You've probably got a short/ground fault somewhere? I know very little so your neighbour might be the best bet.

As for the bearings, I replaced all of them on the drill and motor. I didn't use Meddings for any parts, I just used one of the many websites selling bearings and other engineering parts. When I removed the bearings I made note of their markings and googled their replacements. I was in two minds about whether to use shielded/sealed bearings, but in the end I used a bit of a mixture of both depending on availability! I used sealed bearings in the motor as it was such an arse to get apart I didn't want to do it again.

I'm afraid that I can't remember which bearing went where, but I'm fairly sure that the entire thing was covered by the following orders;

- Two LJ7/8ZZ Imperial Metal Shielded Deep Groove Ball Bearing 7/8x2x9/16 inch (I think these were the 2 bearings just underneath the pulley in the head)

- Two SKF 62032RSH Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x40x12mm (I'm fairly sure these were the motor bearings)

- Two LJ5/8ZZ Imperial Metal Shielded Deep Groove Ball Bearing 5/8x1-9/16x7/16 inch (I think these were the spindle bearings)

I ordered everything from simplybearings.co.uk

As far as I can tell those are a direct replacement for those used in the drill - at least they all fit for me.

I hope this is useful!

 

[SledDriver]

Thats superb work and great inspiration for others , thank you for sharing
Now you've got a well made and fully restored British pillar drill.
Only wish I was better at and had the confidence to tackle the many steps you describe and show.
I have a smaller basic NuTool CH10 and a Burgess small bandsaw waiting to be restored

There's really nothing to it - I've never done something like this before, but just approach it like a lego set. As long as you document everything when you take it apart, once you've cleaned everything up you just reverse the steps.

As for things like bearing removal, there's plenty of videos on youtube of how to do these things and they're all straight forward.

As a general rule I think that unless you've spent lots on a project then you can't really make things worse, and if you do then it hasn't cost you much. I wouldn't attempt a complicated geared drill or something like that, I have no lathe or milling capabilities.

 

[stuffys]

Evening SledDriver
Thanks for updating all that extra info, especially the bearing details, your karma points are through the roof.
I had taken the motor apart to clean/change bearings, but stopped myself and rebuilt and then replaced the cable. (It is funny seeing your pictures of the wiring as they are identical to mine, minus the hands.) Thought to myself, see if it is the cable before investing any more time in further restoration? Glad I did, because the motor did the same thing again, started then tripped. The neighbour is a star and has taken it off my hands and is going to look at it and let me know. Landed on my feet meeting him because he is actually the neighbour of the neighbour I know really well, I knew him to say hello and that was it, but his job is motor rewinding and he is really happy to help. Amazing the amount of people who get really interested in photos and giving help/advice when you restore something lovely like this. I have attached a few photos of my current work, mostly clean up, paint removal and a bit of rust tackling. Hopefully tomorrow will get angle grinder out tomorrow to gently remove more of the rust.
Will keep you posted.
You should post a photo of the complete drill if you have one.
Thanks again.
Michael.
ps like my use of an underbed storage box for cleaning in

 

[Fergie 307]

Nice job. Only observation is be careful buying bearings online, they are some of the most widely counterfieted things on earth. Simply bearings are a good supplier, but I would be careful of apparently super cheap stuff on e bay etc.
If you are going to make a habit of doing this sort of stuff then well worth getting to know your local bearing supplier. They are a mine of information, and often cheaper too. And for imperial nuts and bolts I have used D Middleton Stainless for years, not cheap but top quality and very good service.

 

[stuffys]

Busy morning with angle grinder-

 

[SledDriver]

Busy morning with angle grinder-

Looks good, be careful not to polish the column too much or the raising table slips easily!

 

[stuffys]

LOL, saw you mentioned that. Was just using a nylon/silicon pad on the variable speed grinder. waiting on some buffing pads for angle grinder, but think i will just hand sand the column with some high number wet and dry grit.
If time was reset and you started your restoration again would you do anything different? What advice would you give yourself?