StraightOffTheArk
Established Member
For a while now I've been interested in bookbinding, and one of the problems for inexperienced amateurs such as myself is trimming the edges of what will become the book. Those with the money and space would use a guillotine, next up is a bookbinders plough, which is also expensive although possible to make if you have the time and resources, the last option is to use a blade generally with a curved cutting edge held flat on the press - I've been using a No. 4 iron. Anyway, Darryn of the youtube channel DAS Bookbinding, showed a video of him restoring and using a Dryad Junior book plough, here. If bookbinding interests you, I really recommend his channel - he seems to be on a one-man mission to make and document every known binding used in the last few hundred years!
This plough seems to have been Dryad's 'budget' model and, despite its looks, has a lot going for it in use. The main advantages are that it is much smaller than a conventional plough and the two points of contact make it considerably easier to use than my No.4 iron - the results are just as good, but without the constant worry of slipping or inadvertently changing the angle of the blade.
Any advice on improving method, design etc gratefully received
I estimated sizes from the video and once trued, ended up with a block of beech for the body 158x 50x 37mm. I had some suitable tool steel bar 20x 3mm and cut off a piece 100mm long - the blade on the original is a bit wider, but I thought this would be OK.

I then chiseled a slot for the blade, finishing it with my old womans tooth.

Next I beveled the edges of the top - I started by marking them out then realised that they should be deeper so did them by eye.

Then I rounded the ends and curved them round and into the bevel, using a chisel and file - realised I should have rounded the ends over first and then done the bevels as it would have been easier to mark out.

I'd played about with the block to see whether or not grooves would be helpful and decided that yes, it would feel slightly better with than without so I put rough grooves in, marked the depth of recess (17mm) and drilled the holes for the recess corners. The edges of the recess are 62mm from the bottom and 37mm from the top.


I cut out the recess (tennon saw for the sides, coping saw the rest) rounded off corners etc.



Next is the iron. I cut an open slot as I didn't have a saw to cut between holes. It doesn't look too bad, considering how terrible it looked in the process - I ended up using a dremel to finish off the countersinks! I shaped the cutting edge with a file. When it comes to metalwork I have neither the requisite tools or skill, but somehow managed to bodge my way through. Oh yes, then got the bade very hot with a blowtorch (bright red) and shoved it in some veg oil. I haven't tempered it as it seems to sharpen OK - I have a feeling that I may need to do this step again, I'll wait and see how quickly it gets blunt!
This plough seems to have been Dryad's 'budget' model and, despite its looks, has a lot going for it in use. The main advantages are that it is much smaller than a conventional plough and the two points of contact make it considerably easier to use than my No.4 iron - the results are just as good, but without the constant worry of slipping or inadvertently changing the angle of the blade.
Any advice on improving method, design etc gratefully received
I estimated sizes from the video and once trued, ended up with a block of beech for the body 158x 50x 37mm. I had some suitable tool steel bar 20x 3mm and cut off a piece 100mm long - the blade on the original is a bit wider, but I thought this would be OK.

I then chiseled a slot for the blade, finishing it with my old womans tooth.

Next I beveled the edges of the top - I started by marking them out then realised that they should be deeper so did them by eye.

Then I rounded the ends and curved them round and into the bevel, using a chisel and file - realised I should have rounded the ends over first and then done the bevels as it would have been easier to mark out.

I'd played about with the block to see whether or not grooves would be helpful and decided that yes, it would feel slightly better with than without so I put rough grooves in, marked the depth of recess (17mm) and drilled the holes for the recess corners. The edges of the recess are 62mm from the bottom and 37mm from the top.


I cut out the recess (tennon saw for the sides, coping saw the rest) rounded off corners etc.



Next is the iron. I cut an open slot as I didn't have a saw to cut between holes. It doesn't look too bad, considering how terrible it looked in the process - I ended up using a dremel to finish off the countersinks! I shaped the cutting edge with a file. When it comes to metalwork I have neither the requisite tools or skill, but somehow managed to bodge my way through. Oh yes, then got the bade very hot with a blowtorch (bright red) and shoved it in some veg oil. I haven't tempered it as it seems to sharpen OK - I have a feeling that I may need to do this step again, I'll wait and see how quickly it gets blunt!
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