Traditional Stopped Chamfer Plane.

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Hi Stewie

Yes...a nice finishing touch to any tool I think.

You could include a rectangular inlay and stamp that with your brand stamp.

On that subject...perhaps a fine CHALCO stamp may be due now...you could stamp a load of rectangles from your favourite wood and inlay them into each plane you make whenever and wherever you like.

I particularly like Ian's work on the traditional tool stamps.

Jimi
 
jimi43":bbdigdvv said:
Hi Stewie

Yes...a nice finishing touch to any tool I think.

You could include a rectangular inlay and stamp that with your brand stamp.

On that subject...perhaps a fine CHALCO stamp may be due now...you could stamp a load of rectangles from your favourite wood and inlay them into each plane you make whenever and wherever you like.

I particularly like Ian's work on the traditional tool stamps.

Jimi

Hi Jim. I have been looking at getting a CHALCO STAMP for a while now. A swagman with T.T.CO would seem rather appropriate.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=swag ... B455%3B700

Stewie;
 
Indeed it would Stewie but keep the script and design sharp...remember you are stamping wood.

Were I to redo mine I would go for a mirror of what I did.

DSC_0252.JPG


It takes a HUGE amount of pressure in a custom press to use this design where the background is impressed leaving the letters proud.

It does come out rather nice though! As you are making inlay stamps then I would use a softish endgrain and you'd be ok even with this design.

Don't go too big though...the bigger it is the harder it is to get right and even.

Jimi
 
jimi43":fsd7c5gn said:
Indeed it would Stewie but keep the script and design sharp...remember you are stamping wood.

Were I to redo mine I would go for a mirror of what I did.

DSC_0252.JPG


It takes a HUGE amount of pressure in a custom press to use this design where the background is impressed leaving the letters proud.

It does come out rather nice though! As you are making inlay stamps then I would use a softish endgrain and you'd be ok even with this design.

Don't go too big though...the bigger it is the harder it is to get right and even.

Jimi

Thanks for the advise Jimi. I know little on the subject myself. As I tend to always use hard timbers with my work I have been a little wary with proceeding with a Chalco Stamp. I really don't want to be too fussed with applying the mark with a press set up. The simpler it can be done the better. I may have to look at just TT.CO. in a classic font type.

Stewie;
 
I am completely lost as to the terms but what you need is where the letters and design impress themselves into the wood..then you can just hammer the stamp but I strongly suggest you use a press...mine is an old 52 vise used vertically which presses down on the stamp with the item set up on the other jaw.

I will take a pic

Jimi
 
jimi43":14f4g8f7 said:
I am completely lost as to the terms but what you need is where the letters and design impress themselves into the wood..then you can just hammer the stamp but I strongly suggest you use a press...mine is an old 52 vise used vertically which presses down on the stamp with the item set up on the other jaw.

I will take a pic

Jimi

Thanks Jimi. Appreciate it.

Stewie;
 
One other tip which I picked up from Bill Carter is to stamp through thin paper.

This stops the stamp from skipping.

Tracing paper is best as it allows you to see where you are stamping.

It works!

Jimi
 
jimi43":24zyx92w said:
One other tip which I picked up from Bill Carter is to stamp through thin paper.

This stops the stamp from skipping.

Tracing paper is best as it allows you to see where you are stamping.

It works!

Jimi


Thanks Jimi. Bill must be getting on in age now.

Stewie;
 
A picture in your stamp could be fun, but it isn't easy to get a crisp stamp. Here is a picture of the stamp on my tongue and groove planes from Ary den Hengst, Rotterdam, The Netherlands, 18th century. The picture is a saint or an angel, but it is very hard to see.

foto96_zpsd550f11c.jpg
 
The sides of the plane body have all been dressed clean.

The brass slide has been shaped and installed.

Next up is to complete all the edge chamfering and then round off the back end of the plane to make it more comfortable to hold.

Stewie;



 
jimi43":3igkmmce said:
Hi Stewie....

Nice one mate...are you going to recess the brass strip?

Jimi

Not sure at this stage Jimi. I don't mind the current look. I could just round over the sharp edges and leave it as is or inlay it semi or flush. I am open to forum feedback. What's your personal preference.

Stewie;
 
swagman":pr6ap7by said:
jimi43":pr6ap7by said:
Hi Stewie....

Nice one mate...are you going to recess the brass strip?

Jimi

Not sure at this stage Jimi. I don't mind the current look. I could just round over the sharp edges and leave it as is or inlay it semi or flush. I am open to forum feedback. What's your personal preference.

Stewie;

My choice would be to recess flush.

Jim
 
I'd recess the brass too. And although I can see you want the adjustment to not need a screwdriver, I'm wondering if that nicely made brass knob might be just where your thumb wants to go when you are using it, bearing in mind that you will want to use it one-handed. My old one of this pattern, and others I have seen, all just have a little slotted screw.
 
AndyT":11ms4wtd said:
I'd recess the brass too. And although I can see you want the adjustment to not need a screwdriver, I'm wondering if that nicely made brass knob might be just where your thumb wants to go when you are using it, bearing in mind that you will want to use it one-handed. My old one of this pattern, and others I have seen, all just have a little slotted screw.

My one's got a knob too...but it doesn't get in the way one handed.

But then....I'm a leftie! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Yet another advantage for the mutants!! :wink:

Jimi
 
Yes recessed!

And I am also not quite convinced about these thumbscrews. A normal slotted roundheaded one looks nicer in my opinion, and a screwdriver is always around on the bench anyway.

Funny, when making furniture I like modern lines, but in tools I am very old fashioned and traditional.
 
swagman":1fcfzfqy said:
I am quite happy to recess the brass plate, but the knurled adjuster is staying put. (hammer)

Stewie;

Fair enough! I reckon that this sort of discussion is something that a forum can do really well. It's better to know what the alternatives are, and be happy with your own design choice, than to look at the finished article and belatedly realise that you missed an option you would have preferred.

And there's plenty of room for all approaches. If I was making a tool, I would copy an existing design, where I can see that you like to experiment and innovate, as you have shown us with your saws.

But the last thing we need is design by committee!
 

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