AndyT":1fyeto5h said:
Charles, I didn't mean to thank you for your post - I can't make sense of it! Is there some project in your head that you are not telling us about? And had you noticed that this thread is about the capabilities of tools, not how to go about a project?
Well, you've confirmed what I've written. You don't need to sweat "nickers" or really even knifed lines other than the ones you use to mark where the cuts need to go. The blown out ends and ragged sides are simply trimmed away with saw or plane as long as one hasn't done the work on a component that is already at finished width, length, and thickness. It's great that Lee Valley has provided this facility, but if you ever need it then you've designed yourself into a corner or the order of work is out of kilter.
If running housings, trim the exit end to planned width after they're run -- voila, no need for worry. Same for the housing sides -- no need to knife, cut, and knife, just leave it a bit over thickness and plane to thickness after the housings are run. Same with rebates - trim the exit end to length after they're run.
I'm sure somebody understands what I'm saying, otherwise maybe this post belongs in the dual thread on the same topic.
Most people's order of work with hand planes is the same as they would use if using machinery. Again, this is a fundamental misunderstanding of how to do the work efficiently with hand tools. Joinery cuts with planes are not run on workpieces that are at finished length, width, or thickness if you can avoid it, and you almost always can. Final trimming and planing rectifies almost all ills, which of course is the entire point.
You have to make stock first before you can make a demi-glace, if you get my drift...
Cheers.