Rebating with a combination plane

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I just like clean joinery cuts. Rebates are obviously not glued so that aspect isn't an issue. That said, the ECE produces clean cuts on its own with a lot less fuss than setting up a combo plane. Faster too. Costs less than $100. Unfenced so you can plane from the ends toward the middle, if the workpiece is already at finished size. Everything to love..
 
CStanford":3fyw2o7d said:
I just like clean joinery cuts. Rebates are obviously not glued so that aspect isn't an issue. That said, the ECE produces clean cuts on its own with a lot less fuss than setting up a combo plane. Faster too. Costs less than $100. Unfenced so you can plane from the ends toward the middle, if the work piece is already at finished size. Everything to love..

A great plane, never would've suspected that many were being used because the double iron makes the plane a bit cumbersome to take apart (and a little harder to adjust depth due to the cap iron spring against the wedge).

However, it repays the effort in its ability to take a hefty slice of work without leaving any damage, and it can do it until the iron is monstrously dull.

I tracked one down on ebay a couple of years ago for $25, so they can be had inexpensively if someone has a little bit of patience. An almost magical plane for cleaning up rabbets, though. Point and shoot once it's set. (ECE is very proud of the new ones, though, and I think there are some with the primus adjuster ....................rube goldberg).

I'd consider making a skew if it weren't for the work slotting the iron (tiny slot IIRC, though it could be made further into the iron) to take on a cap, and the need for a sliding front sole. The front could just be removable by screw, though - and fixed position otherwise. In the days of cordless drills, it would probably be easier.
 
Lots of old single iron wooden rebate planes are available on ebay, usually about £5 ish. I've got a few and they work really well, good finish if sharp and finely set, or very fast removal if set a bit coarse. Worked really hard and they zip along with the blade leaving fine chatter marks, which is OK if the rebate is out of sight - glazing rebate etc.. Could finish off with a metal shoulder plane if a super fine finish required.
One of the two old woodies most worth owning and using - the other being the very long jointers for long work
 
D_W":xsilht79 said:
CStanford":xsilht79 said:
I just like clean joinery cuts. Rebates are obviously not glued so that aspect isn't an issue. That said, the ECE produces clean cuts on its own with a lot less fuss than setting up a combo plane. Faster too. Costs less than $100. Unfenced so you can plane from the ends toward the middle, if the work piece is already at finished size. Everything to love..

A great plane, never would've suspected that many were being used because the double iron makes the plane a bit cumbersome to take apart (and a little harder to adjust depth due to the cap iron spring against the wedge).

However, it repays the effort in its ability to take a hefty slice of work without leaving any damage, and it can do it until the iron is monstrously dull.

I tracked one down on ebay a couple of years ago for $25, so they can be had inexpensively if someone has a little bit of patience. An almost magical plane for cleaning up rabbets, though. Point and shoot once it's set. (ECE is very proud of the new ones, though, and I think there are some with the primus adjuster ....................rube goldberg).

I'd consider making a skew if it weren't for the work slotting the iron (tiny slot IIRC, though it could be made further into the iron) to take on a cap, and the need for a sliding front sole. The front could just be removable by screw, though - and fixed position otherwise. In the days of cordless drills, it would probably be easier.

The ECE is a peach. Can't imagine not having it. It's not at all hard to adjust. Let the iron drop even with the sole with plane on the bench. Tap the wedge in fairly tight, lift the plane off the bench, tap the iron lightly once or twice with a hammer, tap the wedge. It's ready. Takes a couple of sessions to get used to it, after that like riding a bike.

Nice to be able to work from both sides of the board toward the middle. The cutter, too, is EXACTLY the right width -- just a bare smidgen wider than the body on both sides of the plane when set correctly. Thing of beauty I tell you.
 
Looking through a Charles Hayward book it was interesting to see his recommended toolkit. He suggested a rebate plane plus a combi plane. So Mr. H's 2p on the subject is that rebating is best done with a dedicated tool.
 
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