The Carousel Shooting Board Fence

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Well I finished painting today. While I was busy I had time to mull over a design for a shooting board fence. Some of you may have seen the recent fence I built, modelled after the Stanley #52 (thread is here: http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/handtools.pl/page/1/md/read/id/145698/sbj/son-of-stanley-52/). I thought this one deserved a fresh thread as it is a new design.

The design was inspired by a question I was asked on the Ubeaut forum (where I offered to make up a few fences for forum members) - could I make a left-handed version? My first response was to say 'yes' and consider a simple mirror image of the RH model. But I got to thinking about this while painting, and I had this idea for a combined model. I was quite excited about this design, and managed to make first a prototype, then just squeezed in a preproduction version before I was called for dinner.

I had second thoughts about making a fence with more than 45 degrees and 90 degrees. The times when other angles may be used is very infrequent. More useful would be the ability to shoot in both directions, which is important in mitred joints, such as picture frames.

So here is what I came up with. I call it the Carousel Shooting Board Fence as it is based on a circle. It has been tested with vigour as I was concerned that heavy use may move the fence. But it did not - the fence is very solid.

Note that this is a completed version, but it is on a very basic shooting board base. As you will see, there are a few options here, all up to the user.

The fence set for a square cut ...

Dimensions: The fence is 7 1/2" wide and 4" deep. (Note that I am using on old subfence on this preproduction version. The eagle-eyed will note the unevenly set fence bolts)

Here is the mitre setting ...

If all you want is a standard shooting board, then just stop at this point. However what the fence has designed into it is the facility to add a second runway (I did not have a base with then so you see a mock up below). Now you can either use it left-handed or you can swing the fence around so that you may shoot a joining mitre ...

Installation is similar to the #52 version - requires drilling two holes and using two very simple set up tools. I will have pictorial up on my website shortly for those wishing to make their own.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Chris Knight]

Derek,
I like it - simple, elegant and effective.

 

[Chems]

Very clever!

 

[Jeff Gorman]

Just a thought .......

If Derek increased the width of the wooden facing to his admirable fence so that it extended across the full width of the plane's sole (ie its top became level with the plane's flank), the lateral margins of the plane would prevent the blade taking more than a couple of shavings from its end.

Following that, he would not be able to tilt the plane (as so easily can happen). However, he will need to be careful where he puts his thumb while planing. Don't ask me ...............!

Jeff
www.amgron.clara.net

 

[woodbloke]

Clever design, but I wonder how it index's to exactly 90deg (or 45deg) each time?..any 'play' or slack in the mechanism might cause the fence to be 'out' slightly.
Hope I haven't missed something - Rob

 

[Chris Knight]

Clever design, but I wonder how it index's to exactly 90deg (or 45deg) each time?..any 'play' or slack in the mechanism might cause the fence to be 'out' slightly.
Hope I haven't missed something - Rob

I'd just use a square whilst I tightened the clamping screws.

 

[wizer]

V.Nice, but mine's better :wink: :lol:

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Clever design, but I wonder how it index's to exactly 90deg (or 45deg) each time?..any 'play' or slack in the mechanism might cause the fence to be 'out' slightly.
Hope I haven't missed something - Rob

Hi Rob

As per the previous fence (#52 "replica"), the pivot hole is a tight fit (threaded for a M6 bolt) while the other hole is drilled to 8mm to provide 1mm leeway each side. This micro-adjuster is to ensure accuracy. Set up is with a square each time, which takes seconds.

It is possible to machine an accurate setup without the micro-adustment, but one has to keep in mind that the design is for the average home builder, who is likely to be intimidated by such demands. This way it is a snap to set up for accurate work.

Have a look at the set up "manual" for the #52 Replica: http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/...bj/manual-for-setting-up-a-multi-angle-fence/ This shows the "tools" I used to set it up.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[woodbloke]

V.Nice, but mine's better :wink: :lol:

8) :wink: - Rob

 

[bugbear]

As per the previous fence (#52 "replica"), the pivot hole is a tight fit (threaded for a M6 bolt) while the other hole is drilled to 8mm to provide 1mm leeway each side. This micro-adjuster is to ensure accuracy. Set up is with a square each time, which takes seconds.

As per Robert Wearing (amongst others):

"If you can't make it accurate, make it adjustable"

BugBear

 

[Alf]

Proper job, Derek - my only reservation being the need for hex wrenches to adjust it. I'm a no-tools kinda gal and I'm sure Veritas' R&D hate me for it. :lol: To be honest, it's beyond me why one of the Big Boys haven't offered such a fence to be fitted to a user-made board. Not that even a moderately capable woodworker these days isn't capable of making a shooting board themselves, but somehow the presence of a purchasable version makes it more desirable.

 

[wizer]

even a moderately capable woodworker

*hangs head* :lol:

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Proper job, Derek - my only reservation being the need for hex wrenches to adjust it. I'm a no-tools kinda gal and I'm sure Veritas' R&D hate me for it. :lol: To be honest, it's beyond me why one of the Big Boys haven't offered such a fence to be fitted to a user-made board. Not that even a moderately capable woodworker these days isn't capable of making a shooting board themselves, but somehow the presence of a purchasable version makes it more desirable.

Thanks Alf.

I agree about the hex connectors. I looked all over for knobs I could use but there was nothing available locally. I have made up a few fences for local consumption, not really looking to build these commercially (they are too consuming timewise as I do not have a mill for the slots in the brass and have to drill and file). So I was trying to use what was available and cheap. These hex connectors all use one key, are easy to adjust and lock down well.

I do also agree that it is amazing that few woodworkers make their own shooting boards (or other tools for that matter). Do you think that it is a lack of confidence, a lack of time, the desire for bling, or that a ready-make item has Status ...? I often wonder how many utilise the To-Do articles - some clearly do so, but how many do not and instead turn to something that is made for them by others? In the recent PW mag, Chris Schwarz notes how C&W offer their secrets on DVD - how many buy the DVDs to build planes versus others who buy them just to view? (I do think C&W are quite safe from competition from 99% of woodworkers).

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[adrian]

I do also agree that it is amazing that few woodworkers make their own shooting boards (or other tools for that matter). Do you think that it is a lack of confidence, a lack of time, the desire for bling, or that a ready-make item has Status ...?

In my case, I would say that lack of time and lack of skill are the main reasons for not making my own tools. (And they're related.)

I like to feel like I'm making progress on the project at hand. I'm optimistic that I'll be able to finish the table I'm working on now (started a couple weeks ago) by the end of the year. But if I take a month out to make some tool that is a month I didn't spend working on the table. It's easier to sell the family on spending shop time working on the table we need than spending it making some tool, whose need is less apparent.

Why will it take a month to make a tool? Well, that's because I don't have much time to work, but also it's because half the time I don't quite know what I'm doing. That makes everything take longer.

Lack of skill does lead naturally to lack of confidence. It seems to me that an inaccurately made tool might be a source of endless frustration, whereas the same inaccuracy in a table would probably pass completely unnoticed.

That said, I have made two shooting boards so far. (Maybe someday I'll make one where the fence is square....)

 

[Crooked Tree]

Nice Job, Derek. Another example of "that's obvious... why did I never think of that!". Rhetorical question - no answers, please .

Not sure why people do not make their own. Perhaps time pressures as suggested. I made my own shooting board after struggling with clamps and scraps for a while (after failing to plane square freehand). I was not aware at the time that one could obtain them except by making. Mine is made from left-over mdf and a couple of scraps of oak: not pretty, but it works. The fence is not perfectly square, although it is close. I glued it, lined it up with a square and clamped it to dry before fixing with screws. Next time I would copy one of the adjustable designs which I have seen on here.

My mitre setup is even more primitive: a scrap lump of timber cut at 45 degrees and clamped to the fence on the 90 degree board. May improve this at some stage.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

I should have clarified that it is not my expectation that everyone should make their own tools and shooting boards. It comes down to the amount of time that one has free. Young children, work, other priorities and interests ... sometimes we have to steal a few minutes here-and-there ... I do not want to make anyone feel guilty for buying a Lie-Nielsen or Lee Valley plane!

I am presently making up a few shooting boards, and they take a lot more time than anyone realises. These are really a gift because I am waaay out of pocket if you factor in the time they take to build.

So build tools only if you find the process satisfying, or buy one and use your time to build something else that you do find fun.

Regards from Perth

Derek