Steve's workshop - Painting the outside walls

[The Bear]

I have a neighbour like that. I find I the sound of the thicknesser helps drown her out!

Mark

 

[Myfordman]

Will the budget stretch to low-cost ply for the interior. This is what I've used and it takes cheap paint to give a fairly smooth finish and strong enough to mount wall cupboards on with necessarily searching out studs..
hth
MM

 

[Steve Maskery]

HI MM
I didn't think there was such a thing as low-cost ply What thickness did you use?
Currently I'm expecting to have 11mm OSB with 12.5mm PB on top.
S

 

[The Bear]

Steve do you have anywhere near you that does second hand ply. My shed is lined with 18mm ply that came down from building site temporary boundary fencing. Surprisingly good nick (the paint saves a lot of water ingress), just needs de-nailing sometimes if you can cope with nail holes. It was all useable, just a few bashed corners. My workshop is like your old one, painted blocks.

Mark

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi Mark
I've not seen that anywhere round here.
I'd be happy with it if I could.
S

 

[Myfordman]

HI MM
I didn't think there was such a thing as low-cost ply What thickness did you use?
Currently I'm expecting to have 11mm OSB with 12.5mm PB on top.
S

I used 18mm. It had a few voids and rather thick core plies and the backside was awful. Only marginally better than shuttering grade. I got a bit better stuff for the floor which has stood up well to having heavy machines wheels about on it. I got it from Jewsons who gave me a pretty good discount at the time (2006)
I used cheap toolsatan emulsion on the walls and two coats of their waterbased clear floor varnish

MM

 

[billybuntus]

My sheds lined with 12mm MDF. Not sure how it compares cost wise but it's smooth and is absolutely fine with a painted finish.

I can also screw straight into it for shelving etc.

 

[rafezetter]

I would personally go with the OSB - / gypsum board route - or some other mismatched materials. The reason being that from a sound reduction point, each different material reduces the transmission of different sound wave lengths, therefore being more effective together than each alone.

I went into some fairly indepth reaserch to find out what are good off the shelf sound reduction materials with the most economic sound reduction : cost ratio.

Concreteboard (aqua panel) has the best sound reduction, but isn't that cheap and the same for MDF of a decent thickness for equivalent reduction (25mm), so the cheaper option of OSB with it's voids that helps redirect sound waves, and the gypsum as a non vibratory material, - compared to plywood that under the right circumstances will turn into a sounding board and AMPLIFY the waves bouncing about - would be a good reasonably cheap option and have the added dust advantage to boot.

The only thing that would increase it's sound transmission reduction effectiveness would be to create an air gap of an inch or so between the osb and the gypsum, this will also help with insulation too as heat conducts far less through an air gap than contact.

You might also consider making some sound baffles for the ceiling to reduce other reverberation. (although might be a bit of a dust magnet)

http://www.mixonline.com/online_extras/sound_absorbing_materials/

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Knauf-Sou...0-sheets-/200559220836?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

 

[kostello]

Let the boards miss the studs...
Fix it so the boards are horizontal... Screw 12mm ply strips 100mm wide across the join to hold it all together

 

[Charlie Woody]

Yes I have PP for 8m x 8m, 3m to the eaves, 4.5 overall. I am a little inside that.
S

Heck, that is an American sized 'shop :roll: Is that allowed on this side of the pond? Think of the envy you are causing to your fellow UK woodworkers!

 

[n0legs]

PS 3 more bags of insulation today.

I thought my kids had all the games, I guess it's another I'll have to buy.

Going well Steve, keep up the good work

 

[Steve Maskery]

Ooh, I'm beginning to hear sound of envy
Thank you all for your input I'll keep you posted on what I eventually decide.

 

[PAC1]

Steve
I counter battened the inside with 3 x1 sawn. It gives a one inch air gap something to fix the plasterboard to and something to fix those heavy cabinets and other things you want to fix on the walls. It also gives you somewhere to run the electrics out the way of the insulation. Sadly it will not keep the sound of your neighbour out!

 

[OLD]

Plaster board is cheap so cut to size does this work better with it landscape and some noggins etc.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

If you're not going to end up with walls that will take a direct and heavy fixing then at a minimum I would run a strip of 4x2 noggins at upper cupboard fixing height right the way round the room. Then, though hidden, you will always know what height above ground level you can afford to drive an 80mm or similar screw without having to guff around finding the studs. Failing that, brainstorm a really rough plan so you know the likely spots where eye level storage might go and noggin those zones.

 

[Cowboy _Builder]

Steve ,as others have said ......Instead of fixing your plaster board vertically run some 4x1 sawn round at 2ft centres and fix the plasterboard horizontally this will give you a continuous solid fixing at 6ft and another at 8ft an ideal height for cupboards and dangly things and it works out a lot cheaper than fixing OSB underneath .
I'm in Spain and France working for the next 6 weeks so I will expect you to have that bit of a shed finished by the time I get back .

 

[fishpat86]

View attachment 613

but an all-concrete base.
View attachment 614

Very jealous of your project. I will be laying a concrete base for my gym shed soon and I am wondering how you finished the concrete. Is it just tamped with a piece of wood or did you use a bull float?

 

[morfa]

I've been going through similar choices recently. And honestly I haven't figured out what to do either. This is my list:

WBP Plywood, 18mm - the 'luxury' choice - pros - can fix to anywhere, looks good (i.e. smooth). Cons - cost!

12mm OSB with plasterboard over the top - pros - can still probably fix to anywhere, smooth, not too expensive. Cons - more hassle to install, still not cheap, fixing still ok?

fire retardent plasterboard - pros, cheap, quick and easy to install, smooth. Cons - fixing stuff is an issue.

Dunno if that helps you any?

Also I'm planning on putting celotex the otherside of that. Currently not sure how to ventilate either.

 

[Doug B]

I had the same problem re 8' & 2.4 boards as I set the A frame roof out so I could sark the outside with ply, when it came to the inside I used OSB fixed to the rafters then a layer of 1" insulation board & then screwed plasterboard on top.

This has worked out really well, it's meant whenever I want to fix something to the ceiling I don't have to worry about finding a fixing with the added bonus that hardly any noise escapes from the workshop even when the planer & extractor are running in combination. I should add there is also about 4" of insulation in the roof voids.

If you fancy having a look Steve I'm in the shop tomorrow afternoon(Wednesday)

 

[Steve Maskery]

Very jealous of your project. I will be laying a concrete base for my gym shed soon and I am wondering how you finished the concrete. Is it just tamped with a piece of wood or did you use a bull float?

Don't be jealous, it's come at a very high price, actually.

It was tamped with a length of 6x2. It's not perfectly flat, but it's not bad either, 5 or 6mm max deviation over 8m.