Steve's workshop - Painting the outside walls

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Morfa, thanks for that. I need to do some sums.

Doug, I'd love to come over. I have a committee meeting tomorrow afternoon at the Community Workshop, but I'll come over afterwards if we finish on time (and we usually do). I'll give you a call.

S
 
Another thing to consider is that you could hang stuff from french cleats around the walls even heavy stuff and move to new locations at will. I covered three walls of my workshop with plasterboard and then added the french cleats on three walls starting from 600mm above floor level to 300mm below the roof line. Its worked out well over the past 10yrs and was a good economical use of 18mm ply.

Al
 
HI Al
Yes, I had a continuous french cleat all around my previous shop. As you say, it's good for redesigning layout. I'll probably do the same again regardless of what I end up deciding.
S
 
Cowboy _Builder":3bc40ue1 said:
Steve ,as others have said ......Instead of fixing your plaster board vertically run some 4x1 sawn round at 2ft centres and fix the plasterboard horizontally this will give you a continuous solid fixing at 6ft and another at 8ft an ideal height for cupboards and dangly things and it works out a lot cheaper than fixing OSB underneath .
I might well be in touch with you about that. Thank you.

Cowboy _Builder":3bc40ue1 said:
I'm in Spain and France working for the next 6 weeks so I will expect you to have that bit of a shed finished by the time I get back .

BIT OF A SHED?????

:)
S
 
Yesterday I started demolishing my new workshop.

I'd managed to get a stud in exactly the wrong place at one side of the personnel door, so I decided to cut out the stud a few inches from the bottom. It came out easily enough, but I did notice that as it hung from its top nails it was about 20mm over to the west, compared to its erstwhile bottom end. Alarm bells started to ring. A quick test showed that the front wall is leaning westward a little. I had altered the bracing a bit and I assume it had moved a bit when I did that, because we were quite careful when we erected it all. Anyway it is all secure and it will right itself once I get the box headers in place.

So I cut a new stud and toe-nailed it at the bottom. Up a ladder it was easy to nail it normally through the top plate. I've borrowed another Paslode from a mate at the Community Workshop and it is wonderful. Bang, bang, bang. Right First Time Every Time, you might say :)

So by sundown I had the stud in the right place, two trimmer studs and a non-load-bearing header above it.

Sorry, I didn't take any pictures, but I've done the same to the garage doorway today and it looks a bit like this:
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The roof trusses will sit directly over the studs. But over the doorways there is a span that is not supported. If we mount the trusses only on the top plate the lot will come crashing down. So we have to provide what the Americans call a header and what we might call a lintel. Something that spans the doorway and is strong enough to support the load above it.

IIUIC, the Americans use a rule of thumb which says that the header should be as deep in inches as the span is in feet. So an 8ft garage doorway would have an 8" header above it. That then supports an array of short studs, called cripples, up to the top plate.

Another option, and it's the one I have chosen, is to make a box-section header. OSB is very strong indeed through its width. You see girders made of the stuff. So I started to make a box.

I cut two pieces of OSB to fill the rectangular opening above the doorway. My nice long track was one of the things that was stolen along with my Festool shopvac, so this week I've bought replacements, but I've bought the 2.7m track rather than the 2.4, which was just that bit too short to cut a standard sheet. It's expensive, I know, but actually it is worth every penny.

There are a couple of things to notice in this photo. The first is the track setting gauge that I use. It allows me to get the track perfectly parallel to the edge and by a specific distance. Unfortunately I appear to be blocking it somewhat. The second if the knock-down table I use. This was posted several years ago on this form by Tiddles. It's all cut from a single sheet and works brilliantly. I could do with it being a couple of inches higher, I think, so, as this on has taken something of a battering whilst it has been in store, I think I'll make myself a Mk II version once I'm installed.

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So then I cut a 6x2 and a 4x2. I laid them across the garage door opening and marked off and cut them together so they were identical.

P1020682.JPG


I then laid them on a sheet of OSB to mark that. But I was about to trim rather more than I thought I should. Tape measure. Head scratcher. Plonker. I'd cut the timbers between the trimmer studs and I should have cut them over the studs. They were too short. As I appeared to have mislaid my board-stretcher I had to cut another two, but of course, I'd selected the best, straightest, first time round. I'm getting towards the end of my stock and some of the remaining boards are good at doing banana impressions.

So, mistake rectified, I glued and nailed the 6x2 to the bottom edge of one of them.

P1020686.JPG


When I came to fix the 4x2, it was shy of the edge in the middle by quite a bit, so I got a trigger clamp, reversed the head and sprung it back so that it was flush. I'm so glad that these clamps weren't stolen, they are excellent. Back on the market, too, after something of an absence, but unfortunately not at the price they used to be.

P1020687.JPG


I fixed intermediate studs, the equivalent of the cripples, at intervals, so that the trusses will sit over them inside the box and filled the voids with Kingspan. This is the stuff I've been scavenging from the old-folks refurb along the road. It's 60mm thick and I need 45mm for this job, so there is a lot of cutting. I used my bread knife. It's surprisingly hard to cut this stuff, not because it is hard, it isn't, but because it has a very high coefficient of friction. So it took ages:

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But when done it looked like this:

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And finally, with the other face glued and nailed, I had a finished header strong enough to hold up the world.

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I just need Ray to help me get it up, it's too heavy to manipulate on my own. I can just about lift it, but not carry it up a ladder.

And finally, I thought you'd like to see the difference between the wood I'm putting in and the wood I took out:

P1020694.JPG


The one on the left is old-growth stuff. The rings in the new stuff, on the right, are ten times further apart.

So all in all an excellent day, apart from my car failing its MOT and needing nearly £400 work doing to fix it :(
 

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Nice one Steve.

Have you tried a hardpoint saw for cutting the insulation?


Pete
 
No I haven't, I might do that. But with a bread knife there is no sawdust. Perhaps that's why it is such a drag, there is no kerf to speak of. I had thought of a Jap saw, but not tried that either.
S
 
Hi Steve,

That knock down table looks interesting, do you happen to have a link to the original post you referred to please?

Also, you mention the bread knife for cutting the insulation but is it a normal bread knife? If so have you tried an electric one, the blades rub against each other and should cut it with very little effort and no dust to speak of.

regards

Brian
 
Cracking on Steve - good stuff
To cut insulation foam I like the Bosch wavy knife blade T313AW
Matt
 
A bit more done today, chaps.

I've made the small header. Here is a better picture of the track setting gauge.
P1020695.JPG


I tried the hardpoint saw for the insulation. Brilliant! 3 or 4 strokes and job done. It's a neater cut, too, than using my bread knife. Sure there is a bit of dust but not much. Thanks Pete! Notice that the internal cripple stud is off-centre. That is because the header does not span two full studs and I want it to be where the truss falls.

P1020696.JPG


This is all the waste from both headers. I reckon that is quite efficient.

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I figured I could manage the small header on my own. It's OK, but manipulating it up a ladder is too much, so I got my little scaffolding tower out. It was still hard work.

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I nearly killed myself getting it up there. I expected it to jam, because the wall had a slight lean to it, but I hammered and hammered and it went home. I'm surprised, because although I expected it to square up the wall, I thought I'd have to release the brace first and I didn't, so I'm not quite sure how that has happened. But my studs appear to be vertical again.

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Good fit or what? I tell you, that setting gauge is one of the best things I've ever come up with. It might be simple but it saves me a lot of grief. It's Right First Time Every Time :)

I've covered it with polythene to keep the worst of the rain off. It's OSB3 but it is not waterproof.

I really need Ray now. And my trusses.

P1020701.JPG


Steve J Maskery (well, it's becoming more American-like as it progresses, so I may as well start signing off like one!)
 

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Must have been to stud genie, who had seen you were working so hard and thought it would straighten them up for you.

Or all the hammering!

Looking very good and thanks for the blow by blow WIP.

Really enjoying the read.

Mick
 

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