shooting boards

[engineer one]

oh **** dave, now i have to go the other way :lol:

well i will appeal for other answers just to see what the preverbial concensus is :roll:

paul :wink:

 

[Alf]

Wot Dave sed, Paul - sorry. The ideal aim for blade bevel angles is really the lowest you can get away with without compromising the strength of the edge. I'm a bit concerned you're finding it such hard work - it should require some effort but once you get a rhythm going generally things move along okay. Grandmother egg related thing I'm sure, but have you waxed the side and sole of the plane?

Cheers, Alf

 

[Paul Chapman]

I'd be inclined to go with the angle it is supplied with, 25 degrees - see the relevant LN website page http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=9 As the plane is designed for shooting board work, I would have thought LN had already given the matter some thought.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[bugbear]

For jointing guitar plates it's equally common to work the other way around - shuting the plates together against a stationary plane.
The main downside with this approach is I find it a little more awkward to realign the plates for reshuting after test candling

That's the downside of "match jointing".

BugBear

 

[bugbear]

Wot Dave sed, Paul - sorry. The ideal aim for blade bevel angles is really the lowest you can get away with without compromising the strength of the edge.

((Cough)) bevel down plane ((cough))

(edit) Ignore me. I checked, and the #9 is bevel up. OOps.

BugBear

 

[dunbarhamlin]

The main downside with this approach is I find it a little more awkward to realign the plates for reshuting after test candling

That's the downside of "match jointing".

Yep, though I do find it somewhat easier when returning the plates to the static bed of a normal shuting board.

But the big plus apart from complementary edge angles is that as highs and lows are matched on both plates they're much easier to pick up when candling. This allows an exceptional fit without the need for high cramping pressure during glue up - really handy if the outer edges aren't a nice straight edge, which is common with guitar/mandolin plates

Steve

 

[engineer one]

thanks dave l, sorry to doubt you

i will go back and re bevel at 22.5 and see what that does, then i can always do a secondary bevel at 25 if it does not do what i think it should. :?

alf, no i have not waxed, but it is not the running of the plane, it is the cutting action, so lets see what the angle change does. :roll:

paul :wink:

 

[mudman]

thanks dave l, sorry to doubt you

i will go back and re bevel at 22.5 and see what that does, then i can always do a secondary bevel at 25 if it does not do what i think it should. :?

alf, no i have not waxed, but it is not the running of the plane, it is the cutting action, so lets see what the angle change does. :roll:

paul :wink:

I remember planing a piece of timber once. Cutting well but I wondered if waxing the sole would make much difference. So I waxed the sole and went at the wood with the same gusto as I had before. The plane shot off at high speed throwing out a beautiful ticker-tape parade of savings as it went. To be stopped short by my arm that was hanging on for grim death and managing to wrench my shoulder.

I think waxing does help. It may be that if your shooting board is a bit 'grabby', that the plane maybe juddering a bit and effecting the cutting action.

 

[devonwoody]

Much more profiling and there wont be any blade left.

 

[bugbear]

Never used one of those planes, but they are reckoned to be the ultimate shooting board plane.

Of the commonly available and affordable(*) ones, yes.

But not the ultimate. There's some wondefully weird stuff out there, I'm glad to say

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?p=30750

For less money, I reckon Philly's square bodied, skew bladed Krenovian is pretty good priceerformance ratio

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... p?p=132469

BugBear

(*)relative term, I know.

 

[engineer one]

actually the interesting thought is that a lot of commentators and the millers fall plane talk about the blade being skewed. that is why some suggest the support board be mounted at an angle even if only 5-10 degrees.

that to me would make it much easier to slice the wood.
maybe that's the next project. :?

after all the rest of the tuits

paul :wink:

 

[Paul Kierstead]

actually the interesting thought is that a lot of commentators and the millers fall plane talk about the blade being skewed. that is why some suggest the support board be mounted at an angle even if only 5-10 degrees.

Tis not the same thing, though it can take a minute to wrap your head around it.

 

[mr]

Tis not the same thing, though it can take a minute to wrap your head around it.

With a sloped or ramped plane support / run on a shooting board the "cut" is angled but the blade is still running in the same direction as the plane body or mass, not the same thing as a skewed mouthed plane.

Cheers Mike

 

[Paul Chapman]

Never used one of those planes, but they are reckoned to be the ultimate shooting board plane.

Of the commonly available and affordable(*) ones, yes.

But not the ultimate. There's some wondefully weird stuff out there, I'm glad to say

Personally, I'm never really sure about the value (from a user perspective) of those very expensive, all-metal, combined planes and shooting boards. They only do what they do, so you are still going to have to make up your own boards for other shooting board requirements. They keep the collectors happy, though.....

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Anonymous]

Well yes. I've always managed with a jack on my SB. Sometimes had to make up a shooting board from scraps on site as the only way to plane a board edge/end in the absence of holding devices such as sawhorses and clamps etc. Easy to do - 2 bits of board, a batten for a stop and some nails.

cheers
Jacob

 

[Mirboo]

When you're using a shooting board you want to aim for shavings like this.



This was done on a simple MDF mitre shooting board I made, using a No. 8 plane. I sometimes use my No. 8 on a shooting board because the weight helps the plane sail through the cut.

The wood in the picture above is Tasmanian Oak. The name Tasmanian Oak is used for three similar species of eucalypt hardwoods that are normally marketed collectively. It was originally used by early European timber workers who believed the eucalypts showed the same strength as English Oak. I don't know about English Oak but this stuff is not super hard. You'd probably call Tasmanian Oak moderately hard.

Obtaining shavings like this is much harder when planing soft wood but it is still what you are aiming for. You just need a really sharp blade.

 

[Alf]

(edit) Ignore me.

S'okay, I was :wink:

Paul, you speak as someone who's yet to try wax on planes - I strongly urge you to do so asap, 'cos you is missing out.

Cheers, Alf

 

[bugbear]

actually the interesting thought is that a lot of commentators and the millers fall plane talk about the blade being skewed. that is why some suggest the support board be mounted at an angle even if only 5-10 degrees.

that to me would make it much easier to slice the wood.
maybe that's the next project. :?

A ramped board is easy to make, and easier(or cheaper) than getting hold of a skewed plane. Further, a ramped board distributes the wear over more of the blade.

However, the BIG downside is that a ramped board is limited in the width of workpiece it can manage.

If your work is inside that limit, it's a good approach.

http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dCoh ... /index.asp

BugBear

 

[Smudger]

That (even wearing across the width of the blade) is the main reason that I have heard for ramped boards. But surely there must be some effect on the cut, not as in a skewed blade, but in the way that taking a cut at a slight angle is easier, sometimes, than going parallel to the edge.

On planing end grain I have found that my Record 03 SS gives me a better cut than a block plane. But that may be because I don't know any better...


>edit< - it isn't an SS come to think of it...

 

[Paul Kierstead]

But surely there must be some effect on the cut, not as in a skewed blade, but in the way that taking a cut at a slight angle is easier, sometimes, than going parallel to the edge.

I think one advantage of a ramp is that your initial entry into the wood is less violent; you more gradually catch the full cut. This can definitely help keep the plane from "jumping" on entry, especially on very hard woods, dull blades, or too heavy a cut. Or all three

When we do it by hand, though, we tend to make quite complex cutting motions like slices that cannot be replicated by a skewed plane or a ramped board.