shooting boards

[mr]

Looks like a re-design of the Record 'T5 plane' They fetch good prices on eBay. It was a No. 5 with the addition of a side handle, as far as I know, to use for shooting end-grain. Never used one, but I would imagine the side handle nestles in the crook of your thumb and forefinger.

There's a good pic of one on the 'Old Tools' site,
http://www.oldtools.co.uk/tools/record/ ... pl605.php#

I have an old No 5 I could soon adapt and a nice piece of lead wood for a handle. Now there's an idea!


John

Isn't it the LN version of the Stanley no 9 as seen here
http://supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm#num9
Paul's having the side handle rather than hotdog which is another option.

 

[engineer one]

shucks i did n't get a hotdog handle with mine, mind you have had it two years so i think that handle came later. :?

i think i will re sharpen the blade at a higher angle.
and must re-surface the edges, so that the cherry is more
behind the surface to be cut.

i must be doing something right, because the break out is not too much
in some ways it is almost like a bruising which kind of bulges to make it more difficult to ensure that the edges are square cause they get in the way of the square.

still will try with another setting to get the proper shavings, although i am not sure what i expect, if they are only about a thou thick, then they will off a small piece, say 3/4 deep look rather like dust than shavings i guess.
if my camera was better i could show what i am getting and you might be able to offer better advice.

it is an interesting project though, and of course actually very useful way of using up scraps :lol: :twisted:

paul :wink:

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Thanks for sharing, building a shooting board is a task I really need to get sorted soon at some point. I keep thinking about how I can make it perfectly adapted to what I'd do with one (building guitars) but then realise I'm probably trying to reinvent the wheel. :lol:

For jointing guitar plates it's equally common to work the other way around - shuting the plates together against a stationary plane.
The main downside with this approach is I find it a little more awkward to realign the plates for reshuting after test candling

I also find it worth truing at least one end of my ribs too (shuting board definitely good here) - makes it easier to get eveything square while bending and afterwards in prep for trimming the tail join (I don't use a wedge though - I mark up, clamp and shute the two together with a block to get a clean joint line)

Cheers
Steve

 

[engineer one]

not sure how easily you will see what's here, but this is what i am getting with the no 7 at this time in both hard and softwood. the finish is great, just not quite right,still will get there with a bit more fettling.

[/URL]


so is it blade angle, or depth of cut, or what??

paul :wink: [/img]

 

[mr]

still will try with another setting to get the proper shavings, although i am not sure what i expect, if they are only about a thou thick, then they will off a small piece, say 3/4 deep look rather like dust than shavings i guess.
paul :wink:

Definitely shavings rather than dust. These are from ash, with the No 7 on the shooting board.

Cheers Mike

 

[Anonymous]

snip
since you are lying the plane on its side, why a cambered blade?
snip

Because it's a jack plane i.e. general purpose. You correct the camber when using a shooting board by tilting the blade a touch.

cheers
Jacob

 

[devonwoody]

Aren't shooting boards a jig really for only doing end grain?

 

[Paul Chapman]

Definitely shavings rather than dust. These are from ash, with the No 7 on the shooting board.

Excellent picture, Mike. They are typical of the type of shavings I would expect to get if everything is working correctly.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[David C]

The plane in original photo is a L-N No 9 mitre plane, used for precision work and apparantly piano making. Adjustable mouth, fine adjustment and significant weight.

Massive blade is bevel up, seated at 20 degrees.

Very good for shooting but also other precision planing jobs.

Original Stanleys are scarce and expensive on collectors market.

David Charlesworth

PS the answers to most of Paul's questions are in my Book 2 pages 16-25.

 

[Alf]

Paul, you've heard how the best test of an edge is to try it on end grain softwood? It has to be on the money to "cut it" (ho ho). Well, don't take offence but looking at your pics I be inclined to say time to go back to the old honing medium...

Anyone desirous of further info on the T5 and #9, memory tells me there's quite a bit of discussion in the Hand Tools board archive.

Cheers, Alf

 

[Anonymous]

Aren't shooting boards a jig really for only doing end grain?

Really handy for along the grain too if your SB is long enough. Ideal for drawer sides frinstance.

cheers
Jacob

 

[engineer one]

wondered where you were alf :?

david, sorry have not yet got your books, so

anyway, like all things it is good to check whether you are going in the right direction.

the softwood is being cut, and leaves a decent surface on the end, it is just that it is more like sawdust than shavings when it comes off the plane,
will experiment more.

paul :wink:

 

[Benchwayze]

Isn't it the LN version of the Stanley no 9 Paul's having the side handle rather than hotdog which is another option.

Yes mr. I see what you meant.
What I meant was the plnae in the picture had a side handle like the T5 and was probably a redesign.

I appreciate the actual plane is different, but then I could see only the handle and a bit of the casting!


John

 

[engineer one]

benchwayze,
i read from the LN brochure with the plane.
"based upon the stanley number 9 discontinued in 1943.......

its boxy construction is designed specifically for a tool to be used on its side with or without a shooting board, to shoot length right angles and of course mitres. a second knob is provided and mounts on either the front left or right side to facilitate your grip. David Charlesworth has a good discussion on shooting with this tool in Furniture Making Techniques Vol 11.

box calls it Iron Miter Plane LN 9 (whoops :? )

anyway i will check it and the shooting board as well as re-sharpen the blade and hone it with my latest technique ( :? alf)

and see how we go. must check whether the tool is square all round, and then square up the wedged piece of cherry or the mdf it rests against to ensure that that is square too :roll:

paul :wink:

 

[engineer one]

ok back to the tormek this morning, changed the blade angle on the number 9 to 30 degrees, decent hone, and reset.

spent a fair amount of time ensuring that the blade was horizontal and flat across the mouth. some time spent adjusting the protrusion.

still getting a kind of dust from the softwood, but the end surface is pretty smooth, just a little bruised at the far edge. :? not exactly break out, just not a total clean cut. square however.

also tried on the maple to get things better.
square, and very smooth. but you do kind of have to take a run at it :roll:
then you get shavings and an end view like this

[/url]



so it is improving, and another skill to my bow, just another million, plus all the experience to come next :roll: :?

so next question having acquired a draw knife and checked my two sharpening books, leonard lee, and tln, they both recommend a kind of curved edge. what do they mean and how do we do it???????

paul :wink: [/img]

 

[engineer one]

there still seems to be a difficulty i can get a nice end without too much problem, and it is now properly square.
however, it seems to be either slight shavings(dust) and very easy, or
quite hard work, and thicker, about 1/2 thou shavings and more like hard work.

i did not expect removing end grain to be easy, but it is certainly not slicing through like my chisels :? :roll:

maybe i had better increase the honing angle again :?

paul :wink:

 

[engineer one]

further thought, i can get decent paper thin shavings when i plane along and with the grain, so :? :roll:

paul :wink:

 

[Chris Knight]

Paul,
Check you don't have the mouth so tight that it is not clearing the shavings.

 

[engineer one]

interesting thought chris. :roll:
but of course because it is lying on its side, you expect some kind of drop out anyway :?

the adjustment seems rather narrow, but i will check.
paul :wink:

 

[DaveL]

i did not expect removing end grain to be easy, but it is certainly not slicing through like my chisels :? :roll:

maybe i had better increase the honing angle again :?

Paul,

You would normally use a low angle for end grain, increasing the angle will make the plane harder to push.