Router table and router combination?

[Terrier535]

Hi all, I’m looking to upgrade my routing setup and get a decent router / table for cabinetry work. Space isn’t a problem and it will be used in a workshop, so main criteria are a decent sized table and fence. I quite like the look of the Kreg PRS1045 workshop router table. I had thought about making one but a decent fence and T tracks seem to add to more than this would be.
The next question is which 1/2” router to go for. I want top adjustment but don’t know how a plunge router such as the Trend T11 or Triton TRB 001 compare with a Rutland R15 router and lift. The Triton is obviously the cheapest way to go, then the Rutland followed by the Trend (or similar).
I’m trying to buy right and buy once, so looking for an accurate and easy to use setup that I won’t have to replace. Any suggestions as to what would be the best approach would be gratefully received. Thank you.

 

[Gary B]

It may be helpful if you mentioned what your budget is?

I have the AUK 2400w router with Incra offset table, Incra router lift and Incra LS positioner fence. Quality is amazing and the accuracy to dial in the fence for repeat cuts is awesome. The whole kit came from Woodworkers Workshop.

With Black Friday coming up, you should be able to get some good deals whatever you go for

 

[Terrier535]

It may be helpful if you mentioned what your budget is?

I have the AUK 2400w router with Incra offset table, Incra router lift and Incra LS positioner fence. Quality is amazing and the accuracy to dial in the fence for repeat cuts is awesome. The whole kit came from Woodworkers Workshop.

With Black Friday coming up, you should be able to get some good deals whatever you go for

Thanks for the reply - I’ll have a look at Woodworkers Workshop. Budget around £1000 -£1200.

 

[Nick_]

I’m considering selling some items you may be interested in. All purchased from woodworkers workshop within the past 12 months.

Auk router table top and fence £220
Muscle chuck extension £75
JessEm rout-r premium lift with Dewalt plate £400
NVR switch £55
Dewalt 625 router £150

Total new cost is £900 but I’d take off £200 for nearly new if you were interested. It would need to be collected or else have a look at shipping costs - heavy items.

 

[Terrier535]

I’m considering selling some items you may be interested in. All purchased from woodworkers workshop within the past 12 months.

Auk router table top and fence £220
Muscle chuck extension £75
JessEm rout-r premium lift with Dewalt plate £400
NVR switch £55
Dewalt 625 router £150

Total new cost is £900 but I’d take off £200 for nearly new if you were interested. It would need to be collected or else have a look at shipping costs - heavy items.

Thank you for the reply and offer. I have looked at that table top and fence before as it looks like a good option, but have decided I really need an 800mm fence.

 

[bp122]

If you're after a proper setup, @Gary B 's setup is worth it. If you are a hobby user with occasional use, then go for either T11 or Triton on an Incra plate and mount it on any decent top for over the table adjustment.

 

[Peter Sefton]

@Terrier535 if you decide to go down the Triton route then take a look at this pre drilled Incra plate, this has both the fixing holes and provides access to the winder from above the table. The Incra Magnalock plates are the best on the market.

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/incra-magnalock-router-plate-7518-t/

If you go for the Trend then this is the one to go for, again pre drilled for fixing and using the routers winder, currently on Black Friday sale.

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/incra-magnalock-router-plate-621625-al/

Other things to consider are the 800mm fence and table top.

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/auktools-professional-router-fence/

\https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/auktools-800-x-600mm-router-table-top/

If you need any assistance or a package price please give Jim or Andy a call on 01684 594683 or email them at [email protected]

Cheers

Peter

 

[scooby]

An important thing to be aware of regarding the T11 inverted is it can develop a speed fault. Im not saying it will happen but it definitely can.
There's a thread here describing the issue. https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/router-woes-anyone-else-with-a-t10-t11-or-dw625-had-this.57533/

I found that thread as I had a T10 (practically the same as T11 minus the above table adjustment) and it developed the fault after about 10 minutes of being inverted. At the time, it was only a couple of months old and worked flawlessly hand held. After removing from table, it eventually starting working again hand held so it was highly likely to be the same problem Eric had. I sent it back, got a replacement and never used it in my table until I sold it. It is an excellent router hand held, I must say.

my thread https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/trend-t10-speed-problem.144784/
Another T10 thread https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/trend-t10-problem.85305/

I previously had a Triton MOF001 in the table and it was absolutely fine, all the router table features were great. For some reason, the triton became really noisy with a bit of vibration when using 1 specific cutter (Wealden top/bottom bearing template). That's the reason I temporarily swapped the Trend on to the table. That cutter was fine in all my other routers so not sure of the issue with the Triton.

Edit; I forgot to add. When I was going through the replacement process. I received an email from the supplier (I think the wording came from Trend themselves) where they listed possible causes for the issue. One was using the router inverted. With the subsequent issues of dust entering the large air intakes near the collet and/or the speed sensor slipping down.

 

[deema]

May I ask, what is driving you towards a router table rather than a spindle moulder?

 

[Spectric]

Yes I am still on the fence, upgrade my router table or go for the spindle moulder knowing that some can take my existing router bits.

@Terrier535 there are many good post on this subject, I have the Triton in a Jessem Prestige lift because it was originally in a Kreg plate I do not have what I consider the best setup because for that you do not want a plunge router hung upside down in your table. It is also cheaper to get the decision right and just go for it rather than itterate towards a goal as it evolves as many have discovered, but do not overlook the spindle moulder.

For a good router setup look at Jessem or Incra lifts with a router motor like the AUK

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/auktools-2400w-fixed-base-router-remote-speed-control-and-nvr/

This now leaves the question of the fence and this is not so easy, I like the Incra positioner with the fence

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/incra-ls25-positioner-super-system-with-wonder-fence-635mm-metric/

This can be used on a home made top with 20mm holes like the hooked on wood bench.

Some prefer the Jessem fence with the slide 2 mechanism, there is no right or wrong answer but the quality is really top notch.

 

[Spectric]

@Peter Sefton In your opinion what is the best router table fence and why ? I liked the concept of this Jessem fence 06001 slide !

Such a smooth movement, looks like a linear bearing arrangement.

Is this one as good

 

[Terrier535]

Thanks very much for all the replies. Some excellent info there on things I wouldn’t have considered. It makes me think don’t bother spending money on a set of table legs - make that part and spend more on a better top, fence, lift and router motor.
I know this stuff is precision engineered but I also think Deema is right about a spindle moulder as you get some serious bang for your buck with one of those in comparison. I think the router table wins outs for speed of setup, mobility and knowing how to use it but with a bit of time invested into learning how to use a spindle moulder safely that looks to have serious potential even to a novice. Plus the cutters look much better value.
Decisions, decisions…!

 

[HOJ]

@Terrier535 I presumed from you first post you were geared up, in a workshop and looking for additional capabilities, I suggest you give us an overview of your current set up and what your intended projects are likely to be.

This way any guidance and advice can be better directed towards an appropriate solution, be it a router or spindle setup.

 

[Terrier535]

@Terrier535 I presumed from you first post you were geared up, in a workshop and looking for additional capabilities, I suggest you give us an overview of your current set up and what your intended projects are likely to be.

This way any guidance and advice can be better directed towards an appropriate solution, be it a router or spindle setup.

Most of my workshop experience is in metal work but having had a few building projects on the go in the last few years I’ve been doing more and more joinery jobs and have been replacing my wood working kit with some more robust items. Set up wise, the main items I’ve got are a Startrite TA1250 sliding table saw, Startrite PT 280 planer, Metabo compound mitre saw, Trend plunge router, Festool 700 Domino and Festool track saw. Recently I’ve made doors and frames, gates, kitchen cupboard carcasses, tables for example. Now I want to make moulded shaker doors with beaded face frames to suit, as I’ve got several built in cupboards to build and fit out, radiator covers plus a sideboard to make.

 

[Peter Sefton]

@Peter Sefton In your opinion what is the best router table fence and why ? I liked the concept of this Jessem fence 06001 slide !



View attachment 193359


Such a smooth movement, looks like a linear bearing arrangement.

View attachment 193360

Is this one as good View attachment 193361

That's a really tricky question @Spectric, bit like asking which one of my daughters I prefer.

Which router fence is best comes down to a lot of factors, how big is your work, are you doing moulding or jointing, end grain work and mitres, do you use metric or imperial, engineering mind or intuitive woodworker, what other machines do you have, size of workshop and budget. All of these questions are best answered over the phone or a visit to our showroom with all options available to see. We want to provide the best solution for the customer not the most expensive set up.

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/jessem-rout-r-fence-ii/

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/jessem-mast-r-fence-iii/

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/jessem-ta-fence/

This JessEm router fence and slider in the video are older models no longer sold by JessEm. The fence was great value but the slider had a few flaws, some poor copies are on the market. JessEm have three new fence designs all produced in Canada and a fantastic sliding fence which is much better. It lifts on and off, has cutter guarding and does not interfere with other optional extras that fit onto the fence.

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/jessem-mite-r-slide-ii-mitre-gauge/

Our AUKTools fence ticks most of the boxes and is very good value for the quality available in either 600 or 800mm versions but have different details, JessEm's slider fits on this 800mm fence and all JessEm's.

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/auktools-professional-router-fence/

The Incra is very different and accurate, can do so many tasks but much of it's functuality may not be used by some woodworkers.

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/incra-ls25-positioner-super-system-with-wonder-fence-635mm-metric/

Cheers

Peter

 

[johnnyb]

For your list of completed jobs and the to do list I'd find a spindle moulder to be almost indispensable.
A router table I only use because I've got plenty of cutters. Any grooves or rebates are rubbish on the router table tending to chip on exit. I also find router table mouldings tiny and they tend to be indistinct. A quality spindle with all the extras will be a joy to use once your confidence has grown. Face frame beads are best mitred using a mortar groove cutter in a router.

 

[johnnyb]

Those fancy crosscut fences are mostly useless because there's no sliding bed or clamp. And router bearings are mostly to feeble when end grain cutting. Mouldings that can work using them are better worked using a square block with a handle. Same with long grain moulding. Two piece fences are nearly always out of line. Just clamp a single fence across with a tight opening for the cutter. These are basic moulding operations and don't require bells and whistles unfortuneatly any grooves will have messy chipping(that's why spindle grooves have scribe cutters but there not so prone to this issue due to the cutting angles.)