Re-sawing (splitting boards) is difficult and a kerf will help. Why pretend otherwise?
Only helps a little if it's a little kerf but very useful if it's deep.
I do it with my bandsaw - kerf 1st over the TS and then cut out the middle out on the band saw.
Same op with a hand rip-saw if too big for the bandsaw (12").
Still haven't seen any point of a frame saw though, it doesn't solve any problems- unless you haven't got a suitable rip saw but it'd make more sense to just go out and buy one.
You haven't got the experience to have a clue why it is necessary to have one over a hand rip saw. Which also means you haven't got the experience to have a clue why it's slower to kerf a board that will be cut with a frame saw than it is to just market it and cut it. You also seem to have trouble either absorbing that or evade any situation where you admit that maybe what's lacking is lack of experience in what's being discussed.
To tell someone that they just need to get a coarse rip saw and they'll be as well off as having a frame saw when they intend to perhaps do a good bit of resawing is terrible advice. I showed a pair of door panels that were split in about 15 minutes. board that they came from yielded panels for all four doors. The board was somewhere in the neighborhood of 11 inches wide, with about a four foot cut lengths.
While there may be some garment rending from the woodworking imaginers about a half hour of resawing something, reality is different- it is pleasant, reasonably good exercise that's not too strenuous and there is no wandering band saw, no willy wonka saw kerfs going all over the place from "cut triangles" and no wasting time with a kerf saw.
Perhaps this is one of the 5% things - 5% of the people coming here would actually like to do it. It's too bad that the other 95% want to tell everyone what they suppose is true and talk over anyone who has actually done the work.
I had trouble with this when I was a beginner, too - you're supposing everything all the time as a beginner, or slightly after. And you start to learn who to pay attention to when you try things - I learned to pay attention to George Wilson and Warren Mickley because they had experience. If it didn't seem like what they said would be true, it was only experience that was lacking on my part. I don't talk about too many things on other subforums here because I don't have much experience with what's being discussed (power tool setup, use, etc). I could show a beginner how to get started with those things and pretend I had a lot of experience with power tools as I did at one point have a pretty full power tool setup before switching. It would do nobody any good for me to talk about what ifs.
I stopped using any methods of kerfing within a few cuts of using the frame saw - I stopped that because I was willing to time doing the work both ways, and kerfing and handling the wood and faffing around takes longer - and the kerf does not by any means on a board with any width keep a frame saw from wandering.
On a four foot cut like I'm talking about, I will literally mark the board, put it in the vise and do nothing other than start sawing, never flipping the board or doing anything other than periodically lifting it up in the vise. The last 6" or so will need to be flipped to cut as the frame saw running against the bench isn't a great thing.
I later asked Warren Mickley about this and he said the same thing - mark the wood and just cut it. Forget about the kerfing and all of this other stuff that's imagined to be better by people who don't do much hand work. I wasn't surprised.
If someone doesn't do enough hand work to become comfortable with stuff like this, that's fine. But there needs to be some self awareness as Warren used to put it - what you can't do (or do well) isn't the same as what can't be done (or done well).