Proposed workshop build

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Not sure if anyone else has mentioned it but unless you are 100% confident you are within the planing rules then it can be better to just get their input as it only takes a complaint from a neighbour and they will turn up anyway. Also apart from area and max height don't overlook the fact it cannot occupy more than 50% of the ground around the property, I knew someone who fell foul of that one and it was all to obvious.
 
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The company delivering my concrete have suggested Gen3 for my raft, is this suitable considering at least 50mm will be left exposed. I've read that it's not suited to being left to the elements, any opinions or advice welcome.
 

GEN3 Applications​

Typically GEN3 concrete is used for:

  • Foundations
  • Walls and house extensions
  • Paving
  • Shed & Garage Foundations/flooring (without steel reinforcement)
  • Mass concrete fill
  • Trench fill
  • Under paving for patios
Please note - GEN3 should not be used externally unless it is completely covered or encased.

Concrete Strength​

28 Day Strength / 20N
 
Thanks Paul, c25 then? The problem with c25 and c35 is they say its not suited to power floating, is that the same as using a vibrating screeder?
 
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DomP, You can power float and screed either but do not use a vibrating poker. I hired a power screed that reached across the 4.8 m so I could reference off the top of the shuttering (scaffold boards) - this allowed me to obtain a flat concrete surface to within +/_ 3mm. How is the concrete being delivered - pump or barrow?
 
DomP, You can power float and screed either but do not use a vibrating poker. I hired a power screed that reached across the 4.8 m so I could reference off the top of the shuttering (scaffold boards) - this allowed me to obtain a flat concrete surface to within +/_ 3mm. How is the concrete being delivered - pump or barrow?
It's being pumped Dave, I've read about different grades and now have no idea which I should use
 
C35 lot better have power floated many times vidrating screed to level/ power float to polish
Paul
 
Concrete is not as simple as it seems and a quick online read probably isn't that helpful. I'd get back to the supplier (who probably does know what they're talking about) and ask them why they specced gen 3 and what your concerns are.
 
I’ve built a workshop that’s 140m2 under permitted development. A shed without submitting plans has a certain size constraint, but if you submit your plans you can have almost what ever you want (there are some rules). The permitted development means that it will be approved, but they in essence check that you arn’t breaking the rules.
 
I would think you want to paint it with a sealer, to stop water getting into the concrete and cracking it? Something like a bituminous paint for instance. Or a exterior brick paint?
 
My pad is now down and looking good, next job is the brick plinth. I'm open to suggestions but I'd like a lime coloured mortar and aged looking red bricks, should I be using engineering bricks for this or am I OK to use standard bricks? I'm intending three courses one brick thick and a sole plate bedded onto the top ready for my framing.

Mortar mix suggestions also welcome!
 
Epoxy resin paint to floor and internal brickwork
Don’t forget dpc under sole plate Hiload dpc
 
Thanks Paul, presumably bed dpc onto fresh mortar then soleplate onto dpc and fasten down to brickwork getting it level?

It's been mentioned to me that a single skin of brick is undersized but it seems to be the way MikeG designed his raft workshop with no issues, as I'll be lining it in osb I can strap the brick plinth to the pad.

Mortar I want to look like lime so was thinking white cement and yellow sand, possibly some lime?
 
Thin shim of mortar first the lay dpc then bed of mortar sloe plate on top
White cement or you can get coloured dye to suit
New Brick are 100 mm wide as an alternative you can go to reclaim yard and get old second hand bricks that are112mm wide
Or you can buy imperial sized bricks (lot more expensive) hope this makes sense
Paul
 
If you want it to look like lime why not just use lime ? An NHL 3.5 lime mixed 1:2.5 with soft sand should do, it will take a few days to set rather than one day for cement but not a problem if you're not rushed.
 

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