Proposed workshop build

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You might want to move the door towards the window, at the moment you have around 600 mm on that end wall and if you put benchs or machinery there the door access might be hindered. Also the door lintel needs more support, currently sitting on not a lot.
 
My replies keep going missing, I wrote a huge post a while back and it's lost.

Anyway, there is around a 700mm bench space and the door that side will be the 'mostly shut door'. My big indecision is do I go for insulated profiled sheet or make up a raftered roof and insulate myself? I want a roof storage space so will need rafters to bolt the joists to regardless.
 
You might need some more windows to let natural light in. I believe there are ratios of windows to total wall area. Probably good to aim for at least 20 percent.
 
I'm drawing up my plans for studwork, I notice some peoples builds are spacing their studs at 610 centres for the internal 11mm osb cladding, is this not a bit far leaving the osb unsupported over 610mm? Limits fixing points for shelving too.
Never have understood people's liking for OSB for internal walls.
You can solve all your spacing issues by using 18mm t&g water resistant chipboard flooring sheets. Just put them on horizontally and stagger each run like bricks. Even if you go to 22mm it is still cheaper than OSB or ply. Stud spacings immaterial and you get a nice smooth flat wall.
I have built many sheds like this. 4x2 frame with studs at 600 centres. I only use one noggin on an 8ft wall, mainly to keep it all in line whilst putting the frames up. Once the chipboard goes on it holds the whole frame rigidly together.
I tend to use a concrete base and simply bolt the base rails of the frames to the base using concrete bolts that screw directly into the concrete. Dpc under the rails and wide enough to leave a 30 mm lip on the outside, which then gets folded down under the membrane. Outside breathable membrane, battens then your choice of exterior board. Make sure the membrane overlaps the join between frame and concrete. Inside chipboard and you have 4 inches in the walls for insulation. Very easy to build the frames flat on the concrete base, then just lift them up and bolt together, or I use the Spax wafer head 6mm screws to join the frames. You can easily lift the frame for a 16x8 ft wall from flat to vertical on your own, but better with two. I tend to build the long wall frames one on top of the other on the base, oriented so each just needs to be lifted to the vertical. Then build the shorter frames on top. These can then be lifted off when you come to erect it. Again if you build them in the correct orientation then they just need sliding off and standing next to the base ready to go.
I place what will be my bottom rails on the base having first drilled 6mm holes through them. I then drill through with a 6mm masonry drill to mark the base. Make sure you mark the rails so you know which way round they go. Then drill out the holes in the concrete to suit the bolts, typically 10mm. Drill out the holes in the base rails with a spade bit to 20mm.
Once you have your four walls erected then you can move the structure to align the holes, the bigger base holes give you some wiggle room, and I use 50mm square thick washers under the bolt heads.
If you just want a functional building then this is a lot easier than all the faff of dwarf walls and so forth.
 
Windows can let in more than just light, they can let people see what is in there to see if it is worth breaking in and are also a weak spot for security so window bars might be needed or look at roof lights.
I have wired glass windows, with bars behind. Sufficiently obscure that it is difficult to actually see through them to see what is inside, but still let in light.
Best security is to stop them getting in in the first place. I use beams across the doors. If you break the beam, or if you were to smash one of the sensors, the alarm goes off. In my case a very loud car horn controlled by a latched relay and timer. Lights and cameras are good too, especially if you have cameras with two way audio and a link to your phone.
One of our neighbours had his camera notify him of an activation while he was at work. Found two dodgy looking types apparently sizing up his shed.
"If you would like to hang around the police are on their way" was enough to have them doing a creditable impersonation of Usain Bolt !
Also go for some good visible security. I have a Chubb padlock the size of an orange on an equally robust forged hasp, and five lever locks at the top and bottom of the door.
Any scrote is going to know that getting in is not going to be quick, and with an alarm as well ? They will just look elsewhere for an easier target.
 
Mine are Chubb conquest models. I think they are about £130 new. I was given the first one by my dad, the second one I bought at a car boot for £20 odd.
Not as good as the real top of the range stuff, but still enough to give someone trying to get in pause for thought. Needs to be fitted to a really robust hasp, which tend to be silly money as well.
Of course the biggest problem for anything like this is the invention of the cordless angle grinder. If noise isn't an issue then you can get through any padlock in a couple of minutes.
 
Mine are Chubb conquest models. I think they are about £130 new. I was given the first one by my dad, the second one I bought at a car boot for £20 odd.
Not as good as the real top of the range stuff, but still enough to give someone trying to get in pause for thought. Needs to be fitted to a really robust hasp, which tend to be silly money as well.
Of course the biggest problem for anything like this is the invention of the cordless angle grinder. If noise isn't an issue then you can get through any padlock in a couple of minutes.
No locks are safe from that device. And if the shed is corrugated sheeting, they just cut a doorway themselves!😝

Marking all equipment with phone number and eircode(in Ireland - it is house specific) and name at least gives a chance of recovering them if police get their hands on them.
There is a huge amount of unclaimed tools etc every year here in Ireland, simply because of lack of ownership details.
 
Framing all complete upto the wall plate, I'm still undecided on how to do my pitched roof. If I use insulated roofing sheets can I make 4 trusses spread across my 7.2m to take lighter weight purlins (maybe 6x2) set into my trusses so the underside of my panels sit flush with them?
 
Any recommended suppliers for insulated roofing? My local place Thomas Profiles have quoted me but want £280 delivery!
 

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