Plane Making

[Anonymous]

d...

 

[Alf]

There is a section in Charles Haywood's book "Tools for Woodwork"

Yep, found that last night myself.

Not sure when CH became editor of The Woodworker, but he had a big influence at the time.

From Charles Hayward's obituary, The Woodworker Nov-Dec 1998:

In 1935 he moved to The Woodworker as assistant to the editor JCS Brough. On the outbreak of WW2 Brough promptly vanished to Scotland, leaving him [Hayward] in complete charge.

There's a Handworker/Machinist article in 1938 along the same lines as the Lignum/Ferrum one - now there's an argument that hasn't changed in 6o-odd years. :lol:

Cheers, Alf

 

[bugbear]

Byron - I'd buy a s/h coffin woodie and use it' blade. The old W1 steel laminated blades are very good, and cheap. A coffin bodied woodie should cost between 1-4 GBP at a car boot sale.

Check the blade for (bad) rust before buying.

BugBear

 

[ByronBlack]

Excellent piece of advice BugBear - thanks for the suggestion!

 

[Alf]

Or buy a secondhand wooden jointer and cut out making the plane too... :wink: :lol:

Cheers, Alf

 

[ByronBlack]

well there's no fun in that, and seeing as i'm not making my own blade it seems sensible to get one out of an old woody. Unless anyone can lend me a forge, some steel, a large hammer, and a high degree of skill.. anyone??

 

[Alf]

Unless anyone can lend me a forge, some steel, a large hammer, and a high degree of skill.. anyone??

Now there you are, thinking that's a joke, but there are sad, smoke-blackened galoots out there who've ended up doing just that. :lol:

My advice is avoid doing anything BB suggests without careful analysis first. Question whether it'll help you down that honest incline we're all familiar with, The Slope, or off onto the Black Run he's taken, in the world of tool making. You've been warned. [-X :wink:

Cheers, Alf

 

[ByronBlack]

Appreciate the warning Alf - your words will be heeded (if that is such a word).

 

[bugbear]

or off onto the Black Run he's taken, into the world of tool making.

Who me?

http://www.geocities.com/plybench/bowsaw.html

http://www.geocities.com/plybench/scrub.html

(this one's great - a tool for working on other tools!)
http://www.geocities.com/plybench/shop_ ... le_pointer

http://www.geocities.com/plybench/scratch.html

Anyway, I know "someone else" who's dipping toes into the deep waters of tool modification and making...

http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/spokeshavekit.html

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5595

And IIRC a Kronovian plane or two... ?
BugBear (who denies everything)

 

[Alf]

tool modification and making...

Modification's allowed, and anyway I've been led astray. Haven't made a plane for ages. O

Cheers, Alf

Thinking it's a good thing BB didn't find her album of homemade tools...8-[

 

[ByronBlack]

Btw, for anyone like me who needs threaded inserts for wood, I have found some more suppliers:

http://www.ezlok.com/index2.htm

http://www.rosshandling.co.uk/threaded-inserts.asp

http://www.harrisonsilverdale.co.uk/products/WOOD.html

 

[engineer one]

peter pan said The purpose of a jointer does not seem to be widely understood. It is a plane designed to create a curved edge, for a sprung joint. Or if you were doing rubbed joints, the purpose would be to go blindly to the sprung joint and then by routine blindly to the straight edge.

i know that i am going to regret this but!!!!! :?

when you say curved edge what do you exactly mean??
i have heard about sprung joints, but how much curvature are we talking
about, and how do you achieve it???

in my world curved means across the surface rather than along it,
so what exactly does peter pan mean?

paul :wink:

 

[Javier]

when you say curved edge what do you exactly mean??
i have heard about sprung joints, but how much curvature are we talking
about, and how do you achieve it???

in my world curved means across the surface rather than along it,
so what exactly does peter pan mean?


He means along the surface of the edge you're jointing. From what I read
this is accomplished by jointing the edge perfectly straight then making a
pass or two along the middle section (about the middle 3rd) of the edge's
surface.

 

[bugbear]

You need the long sole only to the extent that it participates with the blade projection in creating the curvature you want

Err.

Doesn't a long sole have the potential too "see" a high spot further away from the cutting point than a short sole, which is helpful, since the purpose of a jointer is to find and remove high spots, leaving all level (within a tolerance)

BugBear

 

[Jarviser]

I presume we are talking about making a long edge joint hollow in the middle and clamping it up tight to reduce thje tendency of the ends to open up as the wood dries out at the ends. It's a bit of an art to judge how much hollow to have, and I prefer to put the wood in stick and have it as dry as practicable, then plane a straight joint.

 

[Shady]

Sorry folks: my @??))!")")) connection is up and down like the proverbial rat/drainpipe scenario at the moment: I thinkI'm now back in the world of the internet....

Got to disagree with you there PeterPan: what you are describing is one way of using a jointer: I go with Bugbear here - the length is about 'planing off' high spots, instead of riding up and down them, which a shorter sole could do. A jointer produces joints - up to the user whether he goes for a 'sprung joint' or not, which is what this technique does.

 

[engineer one]

see what i could not figure was if you are using a board less than about
4 feet long, and a plane about 2 feet long, how in the hell you were going
to be able to produce a curve.

i understood and understand the principle, just could not figure the mechanics.

i also cannot understand why you would design a joint so that it needed
springing. i understand that in the olden days maybe people did
not have as much technical knowledge about things, but surely these
days you try to make sure that the wood has similar grain patterns
along side each other to ensure less movement. i guess with kilned
wood, the movement may be greater, but surely then you change the
kinds of joint, or end likes bread boarding? :?

paul :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

e....

 

[Shady]

In answer to the second part of your question first - the rationale is that, as the wood will dry faster at the ends of the joint/finished piece, there is a possibility of 'extra' shrinkage there, as compared to the area in the centre of the piece, leading to a stress on the glue line at the ends. By building in a tiny wee degree of counter stress by hollowing the middle and then clamping the whole thing tight when glueing up, the likelihood of gaps appearing at the ends of your joint is reduced. It does work, but is not always vital with modern glues - and, as you say, careful design to minimise problems.

How to do it? well, it's a pretty small differential: I just use a stopped shaving - run the jointer from about 6 inches in and lift 6 inches before the end (on, say, a 6 foot table), and try to press down hardest in the middle.

 

[Shady]

Peter - good post: I'm not, however, imagining only your 'case b'. I was just saying that, from all I've done practically, and have read out of interest, the length of a jointer is primarily concerned with making the production of a straight joint line easier than doing so with a shorter base. However the stock starts out, this is, certainly in my experience, easier with a longer base (up to a practical weight/handling limit), because you are not as likely to be 'surfing' with any irregularities. I'm sure, of course, that if my technique was better, I'd achieve the same with a number 4 - but I find the number 7 much easier and quicker for this task. (edit - my original point stands - I really do not see how it can be considered to be a plane 'designed to produce a sprung joint' - I'd be grateful if you could explain whether this is your theory, or something you have been taught - because it's a new one on me - it's a plane that minimises 'curviness' in the product, in all my experience, such as it is.)