Plane Making

[mr]

The blades I think youre looking for are here http://www.fine-tools.com/hobels.htm and or here http://www.fine-tools.com/eisen.htm

 

[ByronBlack]

my head is spinning with all this blade technology! I'm going to stick with my rusty bog standard record 2" with the chipbreaker. Later down the line if I feel the need then i'll read up on all this crazy steel talk and make a decision :lol:

Mr - thanks for the links, these supplier links are great - cheers!

Scrit - should it be 'boiled' linseed, or just regular stuff, i don't know too much about it as i've only used danish oil before.

Just thought of another question that someone might be able to help me with. I'm thinking of putting a handle on the plane and would like to know where I can buy some of those threaded ferrule type things that screw into the wood to accept a bolt?

 

[mr]

Looking at those Knight toolworks planes it appears that the blade is held in place by friction with the wedge only in the channel cut in the side plates. Is that the case? Other wooden planes Ive seen have had routed channels cut under the blades to take the screws holding chip breaker and blade in. Im also thinking about having a go at making a plane or two. I like the idea that a sole is not neccesary (call me cheap) and seeing as I have a fair amount of Ash offcuts was thinking of using that. Any reasons why not everyone else apears to be using expensive exotica, is that just a cosmetic thing?

 

[Scrit]

BB

At the risk of being branded a philistine I use boiled linseed oil (or BLO as our 'murrican cousins call it). If you do use it make sure that any cloth which has been in contact with it is unfolded and left to dry FLAT before disposal as boiled linseed oil contains dryers and generates heat when curing, which in extreme instances (such as in a crumpled cloth nin an enclosed can, etc) can cause the cloth to combust (remember being told that this is an exothermic reaction for those who like the long words). It will also darken your wood a bit (well, it darkens beech).

Scrit

 

[Alf]

Sorry, don't know what oil he used, but here's the link

http://showcase.netins.net/web/iabonsai/knight/building1.html

I could have sworn Steve had revealed the whole process on one of the forums, but I couldn't find it. However I did find this which suggests he's changed his habits. Unless he's changed again... :roll: :lol: It's noticeable that The Woodworker changed its advice sometime in the 30s to advising not to soak planes in oil, but rather just give them a quick coat of shellac. FWIW.

Cheers, Alf

 

[Scrit]

Normally I just wipe them myself, but if I'm trying to bring an old dried-up husk back to life then a dunk in BLO can work wonders - seem to recall I got that from Mike Dunbar's original book many moons ago (must try it myself sometime) :lol:

Just had a look at Alf's links and now slightly puzzled. It still looks to me that sealing with BLO might not be such a bad idea as once polymerised it should reduce the tendency of the woodwork to absorb moisture and warp. Probably no bad idea in this country as I find that "woodies" can need periodic truing to counteract the effects of environment

Scrit

 

[Javier]

Looking at those Knight toolworks planes it appears that the blade is held in place by friction with the wedge only in the channel cut in the side plates. Is that the case? Other wooden planes Ive seen have had routed channels cut under the blades to take the screws holding chip breaker and blade in. Im also thinking about having a go at making a plane or two. I like the idea that a sole is not neccesary (call me cheap) and seeing as I have a fair amount of Ash offcuts was thinking of using that. quote]

The Krenov style planes use the routed channel for the chipbreaker screw.
I don't think I'd worry as much about wear or about using an exotic sole
on a jointer. You're not trying to make .001 shavings or trying to leave a
glassy surface. On the other hand if I could learn to make an adjustable mouth similar to the one on my Steve Knight pocket plane the sole would be irrelevant.I bought the plane with the wedge and grooved sides but he nows sells them with a brass screwcap instead and they seem to be more popular now.

 

[Alf]

It still looks to me that sealing with BLO might not be such a bad idea

I assume sealing was still considered a Good Thing, but the practice of soaking dropped out of favour.

Cheers, Alf

 

[ByronBlack]

does anyone know of a supplier who can sell the threaded ferrul things that screw into wood that receive a bolt - something that I can use to attach a handle to the body of the plane - or to allow me to use a brass bolt to bolt the blade to the body?

I've looked at my usual suppliers and can't seem to find anyone who does this kind of hardware.

 

[Scrit]

Byron

Traditional wooden planes didn't use a ferrule/threaded rod at all. The handles were glued into a stopped groove or dado. Metal planes (like Stanley) seem to use a non standard threads, so you're not going to get an insert to work with their spares. Threaded inserts for wood can be had from Woodfit. It's in their catalogue but for the life of me I can't find what I want on the web site. Isaac Lord at High Wycombe should be able to supply what you want as well. But if you go that way (i.e. standard threads) you'll need to get someone to turn you a brass ferrule

Scrit

 

[DaveL]

Byron,

Axminster do these inserts for jig making, you could use them to hold the tote on, but as Scrit says, my woodies have them glued on, studs are not used.

 

[Alf]

If you want 6mm ones, go to Screwfix instead - much cheaper. For a tote design and an idea of how they used to be held in a mortise, have a look at this.

Cheers, Alf

 

[mr]

I have some 8 mm ones, least I think theyre 8mm have to check. HOw many do you need?
edit - they came from screwfix
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101697&ts=91389&id=28157

 

[Jarviser]

It still looks to me that sealing with BLO might not be such a bad idea

I assume sealing was still considered a Good Thing, but the practice of soaking dropped out of favour.

Cheers, Alf

I can't imagine why The Woodworker decided that. The next thing an apprentice did in the early 20th century after making his wooden jointer plane was to block up the mouth and fill the escapement with raw linseed oil, and keep it topped up for several weeks until the whole thing was soaked. The reason was to increase the weight, and to have a degree of self-lubrication. I certainly doubled the weight of an old beech mallet by soaking in "RLO" for a week. Beech drinks the stuff through the end grain.

 

[Alf]

I don't recall if they gave a reason, there being rather more instruction than discussion in that era, but I'll see if I can find it again. I may be some time as I've been through 5 annuals in about a week, and three are without an index! :lol:

Cheers, Alf

 

[Alf]

Okay, found the first reference in July 1938. I think just using shellac came later, but may have coincided with wartime restrictions so possibly just a sign of the times. Anyway, no reason given, as you can see:

New beechwood planes should not be soaked in raw linseed oil. It is better to apply the oil with a rag pad and wipe over the plane twice a day for three weeks. Finish off with a few rubbers of orange french polish.

I can see why anyone'd rather dump their plane in a bucket of oil and forget it, can't you? :lol:

Cheers, Alf

 

[MikeW]

I've done the soak and the twice/thrice applications. Probably a wash (sorry <g>) as to which takes more work.

With the tools I've soaked, I still needed to buff off what seeped out a couple times day for several days after removing from the pot.

But at least it is evenly penetrated...

Take care, Mike

 

[Jarviser]

Okay, found the first reference in July 1938. I think just using shellac came later, but may have coincided with wartime restrictions so possibly just a sign of the times.
Cheers, Alf

There is a section in Charles Haywood's book "Tools for Woodwork" 1946 (Page 31 in my 1949 reprint) where he said that modern opinion was that soaking caused distortion, and advised 2 coats of shellac over the top, sides and ends (not the sole therefore). Not sure when CH became editor of The Woodworker, but he had a big influence at the time.

 

[Jarviser]

...I just found a reference to soaking, the September section of The Woodworker Annual 1936 (p 286) The "Lignum" woodworker advocates self-lubricated wood through soaking, the "Ferrum" woodworker advocates a linseed oil soaked wick for his metal plane to run over occasionally.

 

[Anonymous]

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