Not exactly off topic, slot together shed/cabin repairs

[MikeJhn]

Threaded rod and ratchet straps does not get over the out of level floor/foundation, the cabin should be lifted and underpinned with dry pack the whole cabin must be racked towards the low end unless the integrity of the walls prevent that happening and hence the gaps, trying to squeeze the cabin together is IMO a bad idea, better to address the real problem.

 

[trvlr]

Remember that wood needs room to expand a little when the air moisture content increases, as in the wood gets damp even from a modest rain fall. From all I’ve seen, and researched, one ensures a modest gap between boards, where they overlap, to allow for that expansion; but not so great so as to become an opening,

I built a log store last fall from pallets and roofed it with 18mm Shiplap (tanalised), and used a flat steel corner plate bracket as a spacing guide, so as to ensure the Shiplap lengths have room to expand a little. In the current dry weather that gap, closed during the winter, has now reappeared, but there is still an overlap of each length. Also general advice is that boards are are only screwed (or nailed if one must) along one edge. This allows for sed expansion or shrinkage as appropriate. So strapping the boards together with whatever as suggested will not allow for expansion/shrinkage. End result may be the boards either splitting or buckling up… which will mean more problems.

 

[MikeJhn]

Is there a manufacturers plaque on the building, may be an idea to get hold of the assembly instructions to see if the wall is attached to the floor or is free floating, and if the horizontals are nailed together or rely on the T&G, let us know what you find?

 

[Bingy man]

Some really good posts on this thread , be it via threaded rods or the ratchet strap idea ( @ chailatte ) the sloping base must be addressed- not easy with the building in situ but it has to be done as the joints will almost certainly open up again. A standard garden shed is not cheap these days and these log type cabins run into the thousands so I think it’s definitely worth saving- cost of a new cabin+ the labour involved to empty the cabin and relocate the white goods + the new cabin install costs etc etc so definitely worth coming up with a simple plan to remedy before it’s to late imho.

 

[mwinfrance]

those windy Spanish lasses

It's the Paella that does that.

 

[Jameshow]

Some really good posts on this thread , be it via threaded rods or the ratchet strap idea ( @ chailatte ) the sloping base must be addressed- not easy with the building in situ but it has to be done as the joints will almost certainly open up again. A standard garden shed is not cheap these days and these log type cabins run into the thousands so I think it’s definitely worth saving- cost of a new cabin+ the labour involved to empty the cabin and relocate the white goods + the new cabin install costs etc etc so definitely worth coming up with a simple plan to remedy before it’s to late imho.

My lodge has threaded rods (inside the logs) which are loose in summer but take up in winter. Not sure how you could replicate now it's built? But some sort of restraint system.

How about a length of 2x2 but with a 1" hole bored out and a couple of rubber door stops in the hole and a bolt into the top and bottom board. Thus you have some elasticity in the restraint?

 

[mwinfrance]

Could you not find the joists at the front ( and presuming that the shed is attached to the joists ? ) lift at each of the joists with a small airbag , ( when they are all lifted ) add a paving slab or two under each joist at the front ( the "down" end of the slope ) to bring it all back to level horizontal, at which point you can squeeze the gaps back together ?

 

[okeydokey]

Airbags any good? IThe cheap variety as seen on amazon and suchlike I have 10x8 shed that could do with a lift across the front and then put some paving stones to hold it in place

 

[whatknot]

Is there anything fixed to the walls that could restrict movement? It is very dry at present and the logs are likely to have shrunk. Anything fixed to the walls should use slotted holes to allow for movement.
The blogs here are full of useful information.
IIRC one talks about gaps and non-level bases…..

https://www.tuin.co.uk/blog/category/log-cabin-fitting-tips/

If this is constructed as I suspect it might be, it could be a floating floor, separate to the cabin walls (unless the bearers are resting on the foundation beam or fixed to the bottom log of course)

As it happens I have read one part of this series without realising there were more, having read the part on expansion/contraction I can see that threaded rod or fixing to each slat of the cabin is out of the question, I had not grasped the need for expansion & contraction as much as I should have

I need to have a further look at her cabin now and see if some of the problems are down to poor erection of the cabin in the first place

Thanks for posting this its been very useful, I might have made matters worse had I continued with earlier plans

 

[MikeJhn]

Let us know what yo decide to do and how you get on?

 

[whatknot]

Thanks all for the added replies, having read the article on expansion & contraction I can now see it could causes more problems if you do not allow for it

Threaded rod would only be of use in closing the gaps but could not be left in place as a permanent fixture

I am having to reevaluate the gaps and see if they have been caused by poor erection, ie did they fix parts together that should not have been to allow for expansion etc

It would explain why the gaps are not all one direction (I will try and remember to take a few photos to better explain what I mean)

Much appreciate all the feedback its been very useful

 

[Trextr7monkey]

I’m not sure if you are heading down the tie bar route but spotted this last night and it’s likely similar things will be all over the country it’s the tie bar from a. Conservatory with the fancy brackets

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/806304967678781/

 

[Trextr7monkey]

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/806304967678781/
The link

 

[whatknot]

I’m not sure if you are heading down the tie bar route but spotted this last night and it’s likely similar things will be all over the country it’s the tie bar from a. Conservatory with the fancy brackets

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/806304967678781/View attachment 160616

Thanks for the suggestion, but from what I have read it would cause more problems than it would fix, same for threaded rod etc, but appreciate the feedback

 

[MikeJhn]

I’m not sure if you are heading down the tie bar route but spotted this last night and it’s likely similar things will be all over the country it’s the tie bar from a. Conservatory with the fancy brackets

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/806304967678781/View attachment 160616

That's a tie bar system for the Roof of a Conservatory and does not show the centre T splice joint for the tension rods.

 

[whatknot]

Had a further look and having read the log cabin fittings tips, I can see a major part of the problem

After having it erected they had someone fit shelves inside who screwed them to the inside walls , and then had the electrics fitted, but didn't know how the conduit should have been fitted

The shelves are dragging the slats down unevenly and that is putting stress on the cabling

So more work to do but a little better informed

 

[SteveH2]

I built a similar shed (44mm slot together pine) around 15 years ago. It is still standing and in good condition. The front of the cabin faces west and it is that face that suffers from gaps in the timber. I think that the combination of shorter timbers on that side (to account for the double french doors and windows) and the hot afternoon sun makes the timber on that side more liable to move (some warping of one of the doors is also a consequence). I have, over the years tried various options such as the mastic tape sold to seal joints on metal roofing sheets but found that gluing in wooden fillets cushioned within silicon seems to work the best and (once painted) looks ok.

 

[paulrbarnard]

My workshop uses that construction. I think you have already identified the cause of the gaps, the shelving/conduit. I’ve only used floor standing shelving and have not fixed anything to the walls spanning joints. It is quite surprising how much the timbers move summer to winter.

If you disconnect the shel uprights and give it a bit of time to settle the gaps should close back up.

 

[whatknot]

I built a similar shed (44mm slot together pine) around 15 years ago. It is still standing and in good condition. The front of the cabin faces west and it is that face that suffers from gaps in the timber. I think that the combination of shorter timbers on that side (to account for the double french doors and windows) and the hot afternoon sun makes the timber on that side more liable to move (some warping of one of the doors is also a consequence). I have, over the years tried various options such as the mastic tape sold to seal joints on metal roofing sheets but found that gluing in wooden fillets cushioned within silicon seems to work the best and (once painted) looks ok.

Thanks for that, I have yet to check over some other points, it has storm braces but I cannot see any expansion slots, unless they are covered up, which may add to the problem

Until now I was not aware just how these building can move and what happens if they can't -)

 

[whatknot]

My workshop uses that construction. I think you have already identified the cause of the gaps, the shelving/conduit. I’ve only used floor standing shelving and have not fixed anything to the walls spanning joints. It is quite surprising how much the timbers move summer to winter.

If you disconnect the shel uprights and give it a bit of time to settle the gaps should close back up.

Yes I think its a combination of effects, and being such a hot spell of weather its probably at its worst just now

As a matter of interest, what do you use to weather proof it? any suggestions as to the best treatment