Methods for cutting tenon shoulders

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MarcW":1to1f0w4 said:
Paul,
006.JPG

Gooooooooooooooo Tyzack!

BugBear
 
Found you can also cut shallow tennons complete (not much deeper than an inch) with just a stanley 289. Going straight down into end grain.....
Found it quicker if you've got many to do.....just line them all up in the vise and do just one cheek for all of them at once.... do the other 3 cheeks the same. No saws, little marking out, no trimming.
 
MarcW":2w95f582 said:
Yes Tyzack, under 10 GBP but why goooooooooooo? :? Isn't it that common?

They're quite common, but rather good. I have several.

It's just that some people think that ONLY Disston saws have any merit at all.

BugBear
 
Jake Darvall":rp5arth1 said:
Found you can also cut shallow tennons complete (not much deeper than an inch) with just a stanley 289. Going straight down into end grain.....

It's standard to use a rebate plane (289 would work very well) to cut the very wide (multiple feet), and not very deep tenon for a breadboard end.

You would NOT want to saw that!

BugBear
 
bugbear":1agi9l0d said:
...They're quite common, but rather good. I have several.

It's just that some people think that ONLY Disston saws have any merit at all.

BugBear

Bugbear, pst. I have to admit, I have no Disston, not a single one. :lol:
 
bugbear":23l9iuy1 said:
Jake Darvall":23l9iuy1 said:
Found you can also cut shallow tennons complete (not much deeper than an inch) with just a stanley 289. Going straight down into end grain.....

It's standard to use a rebate plane (289 would work very well) to cut the very wide (multiple feet), and not very deep tenon for a breadboard end.

You would NOT want to saw that!

BugBear

Do you mean, straight down end grain, or do you mean accross grain ?

Cause I'd imagine the traditional way is accross the grain with a nicker of sorts......with the table top or whatever flat on the bench....and working the end ? ......is that what you mean.

Cause what I'm saying is different....an end grain cut.

What I'm saying is if you've got many tenons to do at once, and the rails or styles or whatever arn't too long, is you can clamp them all up vertically in the vise well aligned with a tearout board following....with a deep face on the plane, the accuracys excellent I've found. More stable than off a thinner edge.

Depending on your vise capacity and care put into alignment you can do, say, 6 tenons at once(or whatever), just running off the same depth stop setting.

I've done it twice personally....first time so so....second time managed to iron out the problem .....good results.
 
If I can find the chance to get out of the house today, I'll try and take a few shots using some scrap. :) The misses gets cross though when she sees me walking with the camera though...to that means I'm being unproductive.... I'll have to hide it under my shirt :lol: :wink:
 
Great Pics Mark but I was taught to cut the cheeks first. That means you can do all the marking whilst the wood is in the square. If you cut cheeks first then any haunches and finally the shoulders you don't have to scibe the cheek lines on a surface you have just cut (your fourth photo).
I guess whatever works for you is the best way but cutting in the sequece I was taught seems a bit more logical.

Cheers

Grahame
 
Paul,
Machine (shoulders): dimension sawing on table saw and sliding table (with SUVA guard and riving knife in place!). Minor clean up with shoulder plane (after sawing cheeks) = bottom of saw kerf not flat. Sawblade height set on scrap piece. I bought the SUVA guard specifically to allow me to do this particular job safely.
Hand (shoulders): Mark shoulders with marking knife (deep to ~1mm) and cut ramp into waste using chisel so that tenon saw runs in triangular channel. (Technique shown in Alf Martensson's book The Woodworker's Bible). This means that the knifed line defines the surface which you will see in the assembled joint - gives a very clean shoulder line with no risk of breakout from cleaning up with shoulder plane.
Cheeks: Tenon saw or bandsaw. Shoulder plane or paring chisel to fine-tune fit as required.

Simon
 
Paul Chapman":1tshwazk said:
If she complains, Jake, just blame me - my wife usually does :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

:lol: ok Paul,,,,but I was lucky this time. She didn't notice.

Try and follow Mark's example with some photos.

All a bit ruff and ready... used brittle scrap pine... but should give an idea.

I find it quicker than using a saw on each piece.....the planes locked in the vertical....so you tend to get good vertical cuts......so its like using a saw with a guide I suppose. Coming down end grains tuffer shore, but your width of cut is small so you can drop it relatively quickly with a coarse shaving......maybe lighten up near depth as usual.

Be a few other ways of doing this for shore. Just found it to be a handy way of doing many identical pieces at once......limited to around an inch depth of tenon though....else your hand can get chewed up by the side of the leading cheek. :roll: ....happened to me once.

Through some scrap through the thicknesser. Shot the ends square enough for the example......8 pieces here....2 of them will take the tearout (discard these pieces latter)
1qw.jpg


Should have scribed cross grain here with try square around the cheeks so theres lines to cleanup to latter. But was in a hurry and forgot to do it.

The ideas just to clamp them all up in the vise vertically...lined up....clamp to help keep it all together....(probably should have used a stronger clamp....those quick grips aren't that strong I've found)
2qw.jpg


Then just take the 289 straight down the end grain....like this sort of thing...
3qw.jpg

4qw.jpg

5qw.jpg

6qw.jpg

Then work on each individually with plane or a chisel so they bite nice...right onto the scribed lines.
7qw.jpg
 
Thanks for taking the trouble to do that, Jake - you're a star (but we knew that already :wink: ). That looks like a really good method and a very good finish for pine. That plane with the skewed blade (and the deep fence :wink: ) must help I would think - not many of them about.

Thanks again - I'll send the wife a box of chocolates :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Paul Chapman":1ws0wlwu said:
- not many of them about.

Thanks Paul. Always kind.

No. not many about. I couldn't justify spending a couple of hundred or more on one....... but I got lucky on ebay.....I won two 289 bodies for $30US........Missing all of the parts though.

I think the designs flawed though....only a single rod....fence flexes about. I added a crude second arm to stop that....but I've probably mentioned that before....broken record...sorry.

Thankyou, but we're right for chocolates. :) I'm lucky enough to have a wife who likes to cook..... There's a container in the kitchen full of chocolate chip and macadamia nut cookies. Well, half full now. Ate about 20 of them last night :oops: a couple this morning too. Probably not a good idea to have any more chocolate in the house. :wink:
 
Jake Darvall":r1ffewlk said:
I think the designs flawed though....only a single rod....fence flexes about. I added a crude second arm to stop that....

You're right. Don't know why Stanley stuck with single rods on most of their fenced planes. Useless. It's why the Record #778 is so much better than the Stanley #78

Jake Darvall":r1ffewlk said:
Probably not a good idea to have any more chocolate in the house. :wink:

Keep buying the chocolate, Jake. They reckon it's better than sex, which is a good thing when you get to my age :oops: :oops: :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Thanks for sharing Jake, fine pics. Planing end grain in order to plane on tenons wasn't clear for me either. Seems I have to look around for a # 289 now. :lol:

Marc
 
Paul Chapman":yrgruo6a said:
Keep buying the chocolate, Jake. They reckon it's better than sex, which is a good thing when you get to my age :oops: :oops: :lol:

Paul

:lol: I'm not sure what to say to that Paul. :lol: ..... beta hold my tongue :wink:



Pleasure Mark. Thanking you too for those pics as well. Really enjoyed them .
 

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