Methods for cutting tenon shoulders

[PaulO]

What techniques do people prefer for cutting to a tenon shoulder line?

1) Approximate cutting with a bandsaw / tenon saw first followed by
a) Paring to a scribed line with a chisel? If so, do you aim for a convex shoulder (convex towards the tenon)?
b) Trimming to the scribed line with a shoulder plane? If so, how do you avoid break out?

2) Go straight for the scribed line with a bandsaw / tenon saw / table saw?

3) Mark the line with a 3B pencil then aim with an axe?

Any other suggestions?

I think I would go with 1a, but I am thinking of investing in a large LN shoulder plane. I am guessing it should be ideal for trimming shoulders?

 

[mr]

1a for me, but I aim for a flat shoulder, not sure why you mention convex, am I missing something?
1c (?) method I intend to try soon - cutting to depth with handsaw, chopping out waste with big chisel (as I do now) and (new bit) cleaning up resultant mess with router plane.

Mike

 

[Philly]

Paul
I use #2 since getting an accurate table saw. I still use a shoulder plane to correct any nastyness, though :wink:
A shoulder plane is a very handy tool - you'll certainly appreciate having one! Don't forget to check out the Veritas ones as well as the beautiful planes from HNT Gordon.
Cheers
Philly

 

[promhandicam]

For me it would depend on the size and number of tenons. If it was several that were the same size then I think I'd go for doing them on the router table and making up a jig. If it were just one or two cut them by hand and adjust with a chisel. Like most things there isn't a right or wrong way - whatever you are most comfortable with. I've seen carpenters here in Africa use machetes for things that you or I would do with a chisel or plane. Someone will now be along to say that there is a right way and put me straight :wink:

Steve

 

[MarcW]

Paul,

Best method I have adopted is sawing with a tenon saw to the line and cleaning with a router plane. Shoulders cleaned with a shoulder plane, but a sharp chisel is equivalent.

Regards,

Marc

 

[PaulO]

not sure why you mention convex, am I missing something?

You're probably not missing something, it's probably me.

This is what I meant (grossly exaggerated):


The idea being that it will give you a nice tight joint when you clamp it up.

 

[PowerTool]

Excellent photos,Marc - thanks

And I also go for 1a

Andrew

 

[Philly]

Now you're just showing off, Marc! :lol:
Seriously, thanks for the pictures, very good! Looks like you had fun,
Philly

 

[PaulO]

Paul,

Best method I have adopted is sawing with a tenon saw to the line and cleaning with a router plane. Shoulders cleaned with a shoulder plane, but a sharp chisel is equivalent.

Beautifully done.

Any reason for not using a titemark gauge on the shoulder marking? Other than the price of having two?

 

[Paul Kierstead]

If doing lots, the table saw.
If doing a few, a fine crosscut saw (usually Japanese); I try to just "go for it", but if I am feeling shy, I might finish with a chisel. Sometimes I sort them out with the shoulder plane, but it is actually a bit of a bother. Once in a blue moon I use the band saw because it is running already (cheek cuts), but always a little shy because the bandsaw leaves a bit of a rought cut sometimes.

 

[woodbloke]

Philly wrote:

A shoulder plane is a very handy tool - you'll certainly appreciate having one!

.......'specially the ones you make Philly :lol:

I sometimes true the cheeks after sawing by passing them across a router cutter in the table, just a feint skim is all that's needed to get them dead on - Rob

 

[Paul Chapman]

Nice pictures Marc. I like your wooden marking gauge - did you make it?

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[woodbloke]

Marc - I see also from your excellent sequence of pics that you've got a steel bench dog :shock:.....if that were my bench they'd be replaced fairly smartly, in fact asap - Rob

 

[Alf]

Marc, great sequence of pics.

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Thanks Marc
I use my routers for mortice floors, but hadn't thought of the cheeks(?) - great idea.
What's the multiply morticed scrap(?) for? Checking you router depth?
Cheers
Steve

 

[MikeW]

PaulO, undercutting of tenon sholders is something I do frequently. As I usually clean up my shoulders with a chisel, it's in my hand anyway.

Steve, If Marc is doing what I often do, it's basically a set-up block for the job. Each mortise size, tenon depth/length and tenon thickness set by it. In the case of Marc's routerplane, it is used to quickly establish the offset for the cutter in tuning the tenon's relationship to a given depth.

Once correct, it removes making measurements on similar pieces.

Take care, Mike

 

[MikeW]

PaulO,

Typically I use a bandsaw or simply handcut them. Depends in part on mood, often on quantity. Once in a blue moon I use the WoodRat.

Fine tuning the tenon is mostly a rasp or file on the tenon cheeks, but before I sold it, a router plane was used if I had a bunch to do. Usually use a chisel for the shoulders.

Seeing how I'm going to be teaching another handtool use class in the near future and using a router plane is part of what I teach, guess I need a new one...

Take care, Mike

 

[MarcW]

...Any reason for not using a titemark gauge on the shoulder marking? Other than the price of having two?

Yes Paul, the wooden marking gauge has a longer fence than the TiteMark and allows to take out the wobbling movement on marking a line more than 3 cm from the board's edge.

Nice pictures Marc. I like your wooden marking gauge - did you make it?

Cheers

Paul

Nope Paul, it's a japanese gauge from Dieter Schmid. I like it much for its long fence.

Marc - I see also from your excellent sequence of pics that you've got a steel bench dog .....if that were my bench they'd be replaced fairly smartly, in fact asap - Rob

Yes Rob, good advice, but I won't ever come to make some. #-o

Thanks Marc
I use my routers for mortice floors, but hadn't thought of the cheeks(?) - great idea.
What's the multiply morticed scrap(?) for? Checking you router depth?
Cheers
Steve

Steve, the scrap's just for setting the router plane. The mortises are testcuts with a new chisel, sort of multi-purpose-scrap-piece .

Thank you all for your positive feedback,

Marc

 

[AHoman]

[...] the scrap's just for setting the router plane. The mortises are testcuts with a new chisel, sort of multi-purpose-scrap-piece

Marc,
Thanks for explaining -- that pic was a mystery to me. (I don't use a router plane -- yet!)
Brilliant photos -- thanks for posting them. (Nice looking wood, too!) I'd love to see more posts like this -- aspects of projects, documenting use of hand tool techniques.
-Andy H

 

[Anonymous]

Dado cutters in radial arm saw.

Well you did ask! :lol:

Cheers
Brad