Log lamp...

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Victorthesecond

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HI everyone, hope all of you are well!

I've been asked if I can make a table lamp from a small log - probably no more than 10" high. I've explored YouTube (as you do) and just really wanted to ask the experts a few questions....

1) I don't think it especially matters what sort of wood I use, but if there is a preference "out there", please feel free to share!
2) I plan to strip the bark, then see 3 below.....
3) I'm guessing that a kiln dried log would be best? But, if not, am I OK to simply place the log in my oven for a while? About 100degC for 30 minutes or so?
3) I plan to drill a hole through the centre of the log so the wire can go from bottom to top, and then fit a lampholder accessory kit (akin to this: Amazon.co.uk) I think I'd need an auger drill long enough to go the whole length of the log - would you agree?
5) I plan to chisel out a trough for the wire to run through (from the hole in the bottom) so the log can stand level I think some small feet of some sort would be a good idea as well, perhaps a trough isn't necessary....
5) Then I plan to simply oil the wood - any thoughts on what sort of oil to use?

As always, I really appreciate your replies, ideas and suggestions. Thank you!

Mike
 
If you are going to dry it in your oven it will take a lot longer than 30 minutes, start by weighing it,

then put it in for the 30mins at 100C but keep checking on it every few minutes to make sure it hasn't caught fire,

let it cool and weigh it again,

repeat until the weight loss stops.

Chances are whatever wood you use will crack but for me that just adds to character. I haven't looked at your amazon link but one thing to be careful of is to make sure the kit is safe with UK electrical supply, I've seen a few news reports recently of cheap imported goods starting fires.
 
If you are going to dry it in your oven it will take a lot longer than 30 minutes, start by weighing it,

then put it in for the 30mins at 100C but keep checking on it every few minutes to make sure it hasn't caught fire,

let it cool and weigh it again,

repeat until the weight loss stops.

Chances are whatever wood you use will crack but for me that just adds to character. I haven't looked at your amazon link but one thing to be careful of is to make sure the kit is safe with UK electrical supply, I've seen a few news reports recently of cheap imported goods starting fires.
Thank you. I guess I'm better getting ready dried logs really?
 
I've made a couple of lamps for the bedside tables similar to what you describe myself (no pictures unfortunately, my ex took them with her)
:-(

I already had a set of HSS 'long drills' from my tradie days and one of those about 25cm long was more than adequate for the job (be careful drilling that hole- it is waaay easy to get off center and come out through the side if the drill bit is angled at all and I only had my handheld electric drill to do it with at the time, was too long for the bench drill) but a small diameter long shaft spade bit would do it to I reckon and that would be a lot cheaper...

Make doubly sure on the post to the base connection- my first attempt just had a couple of screws and glued with white wood glue- it became wobbly after only a month or two- whoops...

I wouldn't bother with the groove- I ended up putting rubber feet on them as the wood marked the tabletop (originally I just drilled in from the side and then drilled down from the top with a bit big enough to meet up with it to pass the cable through), readily available from hardware stores etc, and stopped it 'sliding around' when turning on and off and with those fitted there would have been ample space for a cable...

I just used whatever oil I had from grandads old shed I inherited- he had dozens of tins all unmarked- open it up and see what you get- it's a lucky dip lol
Obviously they must have looked good enough, after all the ex wanted to keep THEM... (lol- I got the dog though)
 
I've made a couple of lamps for the bedside tables similar to what you describe myself (no pictures unfortunately, my ex took them with her)
:-(

I already had a set of HSS 'long drills' from my tradie days and one of those about 25cm long was more than adequate for the job (be careful drilling that hole- it is waaay easy to get off center and come out through the side if the drill bit is angled at all and I only had my handheld electric drill to do it with at the time, was too long for the bench drill) but a small diameter long shaft spade bit would do it to I reckon and that would be a lot cheaper...

Make doubly sure on the post to the base connection- my first attempt just had a couple of screws and glued with white wood glue- it became wobbly after only a month or two- whoops...

I wouldn't bother with the groove- I ended up putting rubber feet on them as the wood marked the tabletop (originally I just drilled in from the side and then drilled down from the top with a bit big enough to meet up with it to pass the cable through), readily available from hardware stores etc, and stopped it 'sliding around' when turning on and off and with those fitted there would have been ample space for a cable...

I just used whatever oil I had from grandads old shed I inherited- he had dozens of tins all unmarked- open it up and see what you get- it's a lucky dip lol
Obviously they must have looked good enough, after all the ex wanted to keep THEM... (lol- I got the dog though)
Thank you! Yes, drilling vertically isn't always easy....I don't have a bench drill, so this will be by hand. I was thinking it should be the first job, before and bark stripping, and was planning on clamping it vertically in my B&D bench as tight as possible and then using a drill block to start the hole off . That should give a decent chance of not being too far off vertical. Thinking about it, I don't think an auger drill is needed - I don't actually want the hole to be too wide, 8 to 10mm which should be about right for the fitting for the lamp unit stuff.

Glad you got the dog......
 
You want 8 or 10mm from the top, nicely centered. But you don't need to go all the way through. If you drill similar size from the bottom, chances of them meeting are trillions to one against, but of you use a forstner or spade bit, say 30mm, from the bottom it will meet the hole from the top, not centrally but a cable will go through. Then you can drill an 8 or 10mm hole in from the side near the bottom, about 20mm up perhaps, no need to channel anything out. You poke the cable in from the top all the way down, then you have enough space to feed it out through the side hole becausee your fingers will get in to your 30mm hole that you drilled from the bottom. Pull it all tight-ish, and for neatness you can then block or cover the hole in the bottom. Felt all over the base or something inserted as a plug.
 
Just a thought, may be easier to start the hole with a plunge router if the top is flat, would give a guide for an auger bit.
 
As Richard said, small hole down from the top, much bigger in from the bottom. The bigger hole can be as deep as you like but can be shallow if you prefer.
The larger diameter is used to give the wire room to turn from vertical to horizontal.
Up to you whether you drill in from the side, make a trough as you suggest or simply add feet.
If you don’t use feet, a piece of felt glued on the bottom hides the trough and protects any furniture the lamp might be placed on.
Finally, if the wire is buried, remember to derate the cable adequately. ( You’ll probably be OK with LED bulbs).
 
Isn't there a 'rule of thumb' to the effect that the tightest curve for any cable should be 5x it's diameter? This may affect the size of the hole in the base to accommodate a suitable sweep
 
you could always use an old wooden handplane and turn it into a lamp, seems popular thesedays.
 
Or you could take an old lamp and turn it into a wooden smoothing plane, or with the advance's in LiFe batteries and out-runner motors turn it into a model flying plane. 🤔
 
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