If you can score it as deep as possible then declare chemical warfare it will eventually be worm food . Just need to get it below ground level and let nature do its job..
Tree removal, which type of drill?
- Thread starter pe2dave
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pe2dave
Established Member
+1.A stump grinder can be hired for around £200 all in for weekend . A tree surgeon will likely charge at least this amount. Subsequent stumps at the same location are then charged at a cheaper amount but a lot comes down to the diameter and the complexity of the root system. The machine is manual ( no gear box ) so a lot of dragging and pushing. They also make a lot mess so I’d recommend a good breakfast.. some of these stumps below were over 30 “ in diameter and it took 2 of us a weekend..
Except restricted access, via a garage door? Had a big one (ins job) a while back - very impressive.
alex robinson
Established Member
Make sure you can sharpen it - any touch onto soil is will blunt the chain pretty fast. Something like this is dead easy to use: https://www.sam-turner.co.uk/products/stihl-2-in-1-easyfile-3-8p-4mm? Fake versions available on Amazon for half the price - no idea how good they are.
Also it is worth getting the armoured trousers - electric chainsaws can make just as much of a mess of your leg as petrol. Even if you aren't planning on cutting lots of things, they make excellent warm winter workwear!
Terrytpot
Established Member
May have to look into this myself, I had 7 rather overgrown leylandi/conifers chopped down when I noved to my current home and haven’t dealt with the stumps that are all 3-8” above ground level.
MarkAW
Established Member
A family member had one done recently. I believe it cost £80, or maybe it could have been £180 not sure. They guy came with a protective portable fence, so there was little mess. Was done in no time and presumably he had the training to handle such a dangerous machine. Sounds a lot less hassle, and even cheaper than DIY. Especially if only 1 tree.A stump grinder can be hired for around £200 all in for weekend . A tree surgeon will likely charge at least this amount. Subsequent stumps at the same location are then charged at a cheaper amount but a lot comes down to the diameter and the complexity of the root system. The machine is manual ( no gear box ) so a lot of dragging and pushing. They also make a lot mess so I’d recommend a good breakfast
pe2dave
Established Member
pe2dave
Established Member
There's hopeful; Samson perhaps, not me.
There's a vertical tap going straight down which doesn't help.
For a drill, I'd be grabbing a big cordless with a 25mm auger type bit.
I second Noel and the axe / hatchet with plenty of resharpenings.
Japanese pullsaws are good for this too - either a cheap, v.coarse tooth version in the style of a woodwork saw but intended for pruning etc, or a folding one like the green bahco laplander one or the orange alternative with even longer teeth and a full japanese tooth form.
Secondhand electric chainsaw off facebook ?
I second Noel and the axe / hatchet with plenty of resharpenings.
Japanese pullsaws are good for this too - either a cheap, v.coarse tooth version in the style of a woodwork saw but intended for pruning etc, or a folding one like the green bahco laplander one or the orange alternative with even longer teeth and a full japanese tooth form.
Secondhand electric chainsaw off facebook ?
I think I would use a flat spade drill bit if I had to use a drill, but then again I would use my chainsaw with the Oregon Power sharp blade and accept I would need a new chain after sharpening it two dozen times or so due to earth contact.
https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/c...rp-saw-chain-and-guide-bars/c/powersharp-sc-c
https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/c...rp-saw-chain-and-guide-bars/c/powersharp-sc-c
okeydokey
Established Member
Hi
Dig a bit more soil away.
I still think a reciprocating saw held parallel to the fence (cutting down and then sideways) will get the bulk cut away and the rest you can see whats what at that time. Perhaps you might be able to cover it back with soil and just let it rot away by itself after you butchered a bit more
pe2dave
Established Member
I've (about) 18" x 15 or so? No such saw goes that big without heavy cost?
Yes I want to clear the gravel board, then let it rot.
Spade bit - burned - smoke after 8 seconds.
Auger bit - in BIG drill - tended towards either jamming or breaking my wrist.
Currently favouring a tree feller.. with a chainsaw. See what that costs.
alex robinson
Established Member
If you want to get someone in to deal with that, someone with a stump grinder will get rid of it no problem. Those machines are amazing / terrifying!
pe2dave
Established Member
Yes, very impressive. Seen one. But as above, access is a problem,
Equally 'grinding' half a stump (fence in the way) not easy
My take is to cut the main trunk as indicated and be prepared to remove a few of the feather edge boards -unless it’s a slot in panel then lift out with help . Looking at that trunk a chainsaw is your best option however contact with soil and even small bricks will quickly blunt the chain ….
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The one I hired is about 30” at its widest point ( the wheels ) they are extremely heavy and will take 2 or 3 to lift it .. that said it hard work manoeuvring it into position and keeping it there but the end result is no ugly stumps..
okeydokey
Established Member
I'm suggesting reciprocating saw taking bites until it goes. no need to do it in one go/cut
curryjunkie
Established Member
Recip saw with the right blade will do it, leave a flat top cut some score lines onto it, apply granular stump killer and cover with a cheap shower cap, I've also done the drill and weedkiller thing but most weedkiller sold in shops gdn centres are weak solutions, as someone mentioned diesel works as well.
pe2dave
Established Member
From memory, 'digging in' doesn't work with such saws, which is what I need to do from my side.
Thanks for the help people, decision:
a) Get someone in
b) Buy a cheap (mains) chainsaw.
Again, thanks for the advice.
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