Creusen without the Bruisin'!

[jimi43]

Over on the Bootfair thread in the General Chat section...I mentioned a bit of a find at at the fair last weekend for a tenner:

and I said it was off to the workshop to be refurbished .

Firstly the entire machine needed to be dismantled and then all the rusty bits were left overnight in a vat of CORRO DIP....

Once that was done a quick scrub with a copper brush to remove the slag and then primed and painted.

I used Halfords satin black for the black bits which is a wonderful and accurate finish and Rover Carnival Red for the body...

The cable was damaged so that was replaced with heavy duty flex and I thought I would push the boat out and pop over to Axminster for some new wheels.

I wanted transfer the old wire brush to my crap grinder and the old stone was completely shot. Luckily I managed to find a red stone in the sale at only £8 so I splashed out for a white 40mm one for plane irons...

The finished article:

So slightly more than a tenner in the end but one hell of a machine.

I switched it on to test....very smooth! A huge difference to my old machine...but on switching off I thought the switch was broken as it just kept going...and going and going.....it took AGES to stop....incredible!

So...off to make a nice little clamp/rest for both sides and cut a new full sheild....for info on that...see the "Cutting Perspex" thread!

Later guys and gals! :wink:

Jim

 

[ByronBlack]

Nice refurb Jim - you've made a good job of that one.

 

[halken]

well done Jim you lucky b....r

 

[Paul.J]

Great find and great job on the refurb

 

[OPJ]

Great job!

I used to have an 8in Record Power grinder and that would take about three-minutes to run down after switching off. Most grinders seem to be like this. I think it's a H&S requirement that they're not braked; probably something to do with the forces bringing it all to a halt too early (these stones can shatter easily - and dangerously - if not used correctly! :?).

Is this a slow-speed grinder, like the modern Creusens?

 

[Dalboy]

Great find. Surprising what a lick of paint can do

Just goes to show if you look beyond the rust and scratches just what can be found

 

[jimi43]

Is this a slow-speed grinder, like the modern Creusens?

Sadly not...it is 2150 rpm I believe...but I might be wrong...it is fast!

I got the red wheel because it is apparently less likely to get hot....

Jim

 

[Max Power]

Excellent job, looks really smart 8)

 

[jimi43]

I could swear that there was a thread about cutting plexiglass on the forum recently.....but can I find it? NAH!

Anyone remember that thread?

Jim

 

[big soft moose]

I could swear that there was a thread about cutting plexiglass on the forum recently.....but can I find it? NAH!

Anyone remember that thread?

Jim

it was on robert MPs thread about fettling his TS200 - he used a scrollsaw IIRC

 

[Mike.C]

Hi Jim, what an amazing refurb. If it wasn't for the old sticker, it would look brand new. Well done that man =D>

Cheers

Mike

 

[head clansman]

hi Jim

hm , why does the phrase of something to do with roses spring to mind , :lol: :lol: nice one mate . hc

 

[Chems]

Looks great!

 

[Crooked Tree]

Nice Job. I might not have been able to picture it through the rust. And to think that I have just bought a new Record... having said that, there can't be too many such finds out there, can there? Plus I do not tend to frequent car boot sales and ebay, which would reduce my chances somewhat.

 

[jimi43]

Thanks guys!

....it was on robert MPs thread about fettling his TS200 - he used a scrollsaw IIRC

AH! Ok...well it's probably just as good to talk about it here...

Those who suggested "cutting" Plexiglass by scoring and snapping are of course correct...if you want a perfect polished edge:

It's quite easy if you follow a few basic rules:

Use a substantial straight edge like this lump of oak, and get it square:

Then score a groove on one side using a Stanley knife but (very important)...use the blade upside down so a V groove is cut and ensure you score firmly at least 20 times until you hear the blade creating a furrow....if in doubt...score more:

Once scored place the furrow over a ledge...use gentle but firm pressure and push down a number of times along it...you are creating a fracture..then press down until it snaps:

Bend to 90 degrees and slice through the rear protective film:

....et voila!

Of course this is only for straight lines...for curves use a medium blade in a jigsaw and variable speed set correctly for acrylics...

So that is the guard done....

I also butchered the old grinder to take the cover off...and will be drilling this out to extend to cover the wider wheel....

The guard works well....

Now all I need is one of them fancy slidey clampy thingies.....

Later....

Jim

 

[lurker]

I think it's a H&S requirement that they're not braked; probably something to do with the forces bringing it all to a halt too early (

My guess is that if they were braked the nuts would loosen

 

[jimi43]

I think it's a H&S requirement that they're not braked; probably something to do with the forces bringing it all to a halt too early (

My guess is that if they were braked the nuts would loosen

OUCH!!!





Jim

 

[Benchwayze]

I could swear that there was a thread about cutting plexiglass on the forum recently.....but can I find it? NAH!

Anyone remember that thread?

Jim

Jim,

I use a bandsaw with the finest blade I can fit, but not too fast a speed.
Before I had a bandsaw, I used a sharp tenon crosscut-saw with a fine set.

I have only ever workd with flat sheet mind.

Edges can be smoothed quite easily with files and various grits of abrasive papers.

(It smells funny though! )

HTH
John