Building the Lingerie Chest

[Trafalgar]

If one uses the endgrain of a drawer front as the reference surface and sets the cutting gauge accordingly the drawer side is planed down just to the drawer front's endgrain, hence no way a gauge mark remains on the drawer side unless it was incredibly deep. It's one way of working, but not necessarily the only way.

 

[Benchwayze]

If one uses the endgrain of a drawer front as the reference surface and sets the cutting gauge accordingly the drawer side is planed down just to the drawer front's endgrain, hence no way a gauge mark remains on the drawer side unless it was incredibly deep. It's one way of working, but not necessarily the only way.

I guess I must be confused then CS. I'll have to check on the definition of a 'piston-fit' drawer, but either way I never used to scribe Paul Sellers's 'knife-wall' across the roots of the tails.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

You mention that you don't like to leave deliberate plane marks on a piece of furniture. I don't like to do that either, but most of my hand finishing had a little undulation on large panels, due to the curved irons I favour.

Hi John

I tend to see humour in someone wanting to make something recognisable as "handmade". Does it really matter how it is made for the customer as long as it is well made? In my case the customer is usually my wife, and she is more interested in the final product, not how it is built. How it is built is interesting for me, and you, and this forum. My friends look at a dovetail, and look away. They do not appreciate the fineries of handcut dovetails. So who am I going to impress by leaving a baseline? It is ugly anyway.

Personally, I do not like to leave marks on furniture - joints or surface - unless it is not a show surface. My interest is building contemporary designs using traditional joinery and mainly handtool methods. The modern designs speak differently about tool marks.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Trafalgar]

If one uses the endgrain of a drawer front as the reference surface and sets the cutting gauge accordingly the drawer side is planed down just to the drawer front's endgrain, hence no way a gauge mark remains on the drawer side unless it was incredibly deep. It's one way of working, but not necessarily the only way.

I guess I must be confused then CS. I'll have to check on the definition of a 'piston-fit' drawer, but either way I never used to scribe Paul Sellers's 'knife-wall' across the roots of the tails.

See Ian Kirby and Alan Peters and it'll clear it up for you. You set the cutting gauge (used to mark the baseline on the drawer sides) to be able to plane the sides back just to the drawer front's endgrain (length of drawer front and back controls the 'piston' fit). Cutting gauge marks go away in the process.

You don't need a deep line, just a clear line. They can be deepened at each socket as or if necessary.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

It seems like a lot of planning for little actual progress. However the basic carcase was glued up after stopped rebated were planed at the rear, and the strategy for making the sliding dovetails in the curved sides from inside the front leg/frame was finalised.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ ... rward.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Trafalgar]

It's just going to be simply smashing.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Below is the work completed over the past weekend. The Lingerie Chest is progressing steadily.

The strategy for the sliding dovetails into curved sides looks to be successful. The strategy was necessitated by the design, which required the housings to be made from inside the front legs, rather than from outside, as is usual.

There is also a novel method for creating the sliding dovetails using an easy-to-make dovetail plane (everyone will make one!).

The article is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ ... ls-LC.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[AndyT]

Meticulously made, recorded, and explained!

You'll soon be on the final lap and I'm sure the result will be worth all the planning and care.

What will you be doing for the front-to-back runners? Will they be stub-tenoned and glued at front and back? Into mortices or a full length groove? Will you be fitting dust boards?

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Thanks Andy.

The runners will be stub tenoned into the front and rear drawer blades. I am planning to glue only the fronts leaving the rear to be free to expand/contract.

One of the reasons for beefing up the front and rear housings, as well as making the drawer blades and runners from 18mm Jarrah (rather than a softer secondary wood) is that the runners cannot be housed in the sides and will sit proud.

Dust boards? Only the top drawer has a dust board since this will be a jewellery box. Adding dust boards to the other drawers seems excessive. What do you (and others) think in this regard?

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[AndyT]

I agree that dust boards are not necessary. Maybe useful if the drawers were overfilled with clothing stuffed in anyhow, as they prevent one drawer from interfering with another, but I imagine that your client is more discerning and careful than that!

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Below is the latest installment of the Lingerie Chest build. I get the chance to test out whether the strategy to build the sliding dovetail housings from the rear of the carcase for the front of the carcase works or not.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ ... dding.html

I know that there are no questions asked, but please feel free to comment or offer your thoughts how you would do it differently.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[AndyT]

It's great to read about this extended exploration into what is possible. You must be really pleased that it's gone together and all stayed parallel where needed; that's a great testament to your skill and care.
As for the grooves in the curved fronts, I would never want to discourage you from getting more tools but unless I have misunderstood there are some other options you could try.

You could plough most of the groove with an ordinary plough and then go back and deepen the groove into the curve with a chisel.

You could buy a rare and expensive coachmaker's plough.
You could buy a relatively common and inexpensive coachmaker's router. You could use any of several models of Preston quirk router. Or you could even use a British tool from the 1960s, the Teknatool. Charles Hayward mentioned it favourably a couple of times and they are not especially rare or dear. It's a blade on a stick with a fence and a handle to pull towards you.

I can find pictures of these later if needed.

 

[Benchwayze]

I remember those Tektools being advertised in the Woodworker Andy. Cor, those were the days! When CHH was still with us!

Cheers

John

 

[Bluekingfisher]

What's the latest on the build, Derek? has there been much progress or has LIFE gotten in the way?

David

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi David

Thanks for the interest. I have been rather busy in my practice, and not much time free. What there was went in running a workshop. Instead of rushing the build, I decided to put it aside for a few weeks. I spent several hours last weekend building a mitre saw, which I will finish up this weekend and post here. I shall be back to the chest next week.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[D_W]

Looks lovely so far Derek. It's nice to see solid wood furniture that doesn't look cumbersome or heavy, but instead crisp, accurate and light.

 

[Trafalgar]

Very Hank Gilpin-ish for sure:

http://hankgilpin.com/

Gilpin was a student of Tage Frid's for what it's worth.

 

[D_W]

Very Hank Gilpin-ish for sure:

http://hankgilpin.com/

Gilpin was a student of Tage Frid's for what it's worth.

The chest bottom right on that page is the curliest cherry I've ever seen.

Truck cap is different for sure, too.

Some of the lingerie chests in there look remarkably similar to what derek has started.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Thanks for that link, Charles. I do enjoy Hank's work and it is a compliment for my design to be seen alongside his.

I am not nearly half way through this build. The drawer rails and blades have to be done, the bow-fronted dovetailed drawers and coping the drawers into the sides of the curved cabinet. There is the secret top of the cabinet, which will have a lid that lifts out of the moulding to reveal a mirror. And finally, there is a hidden lock for the top drawer, which needs to be fitted out as a jewellery case (with a sliding inset drawer). It promises to be such fun!

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Trafalgar]

Watch the video on Gilpin's site....