Building the Lingerie Chest

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Well, I was expecting the drawers to be straight backwards and forwards (I think this is fundamental!) but also straight up and down, for the sake of your sanity.

Andy, the last thing anyone would call me is "sane".

This construction is essentially a modern "bombe". The drawers are bowed at the front and curved at the sides. Half-blind dovetails at the front and full at the rear. Built with traditional slips ...

Yeah! :shock:

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[custard]

That's a serious piece of furniture! How many hours so far?

Oh Gawd ... I do not want to think about that!

Every now-and-then I start thinking of the pieces I am planning to build next, and have to shut them out.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Good for you!

This is an impressive project on at least two levels. Firstly the technical accomplishment, but even greater is the patience and determination in seeing it through...and never rushing or taking desperate shortcuts to meet some imaginary deadline. I take my hat off to you.

 

[David C]

When I was training the advice for bow front chests was to make the laminated drawer fronts first.

The carcase could then be made to match the resultant curve.

I notice that cockbeads were still widely used.

David

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi David

I imagine the cockbeading was needed to hide the endgrain on the laminations of the curved drawer front?

I was not confident in the glues available here to achieve consistent curves, so discarded laminated fronts for solid. I was fortunate to have a stock of Jarrah at the desired thickness - anyway, the drawer fronts have just a gentle curve.

My plan is to size the drawers from the lower edge of the front drawer blade. The question is, is it preferred to (1) build square from that point, and then cope the sides to fit (which leaves the insides of the drawers square), or (2) reduce the amount of wood requiring coping by cutting the drawer fronts at a sight angle, and dovetailing into the angle (which leaves the inside of the drawers at an angle). Or, any other method?

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Trafalgar]

The laminations show on the long and end grain orientations but the laminations were veneered -- they did not build them up out of the primary species as this would have been wasteful (depending on what period and what country). So the cockbeading was there to serve another function of projecting the edges of the veneer, and as you point out to more or less hide the laminations which were of a secondary wood. There are always exceptions to all of this.

Working these and other forms out of the solid was certainly done and one of the reasons we don't have commercially available Cuban Mahogany any more.

 

[Bluekingfisher]

I have nothing but admiration for your patience and tenacity on this project. It would appear nothing is repetitious, meaning every aspect whether it be a drawer carcass, web frame or the vex of the bow fronts have to be individually calculated and applied. Top marks

The secret lock is an interesting and innovative point, a great place to hide & secure all that Aussie gold!

Looking forward to reading (and viewing ) how you approach the coping

David

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Thanks David

I am not sold on that particular secret lock. It is a Shaker design. I think that it will be eventually irritating to open a lower drawer to release the catch. I needed to add it in earlier on in case I chose to use it later.

What I prefer is to have a catch inside the lid at the top (that will house a mirror). I am looking more closely in this area now while I source the wood for the drawer sides.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

This is the start of the second stage in this build. Now that the carcase and drawer blades/runners are completed, it is time to start on the drawers.

The drawers are complex as they call for compound angles and dovetails. The design may be improved, and I welcome comments about this and the methodology.

This chapter provides a pictorial on the design and construction I have come up with so far. Pine is used in this test case (where Jarrah fronts and Tasmanian Oak sides will be used in the final build). However, the construction is for real.

The link is here (too many photos to post on the forum): http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ ... awers.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Morning Derek,

It seem inevitable building two sets of drawers for each drawer opening is essential. A lot of work for sure, however building the the prototype pine drawer is the only way to fine tune and ensure the final and finished drawer build goes smoothly.

I assume in times prior to mass production furniture, unique pieces such as you cabinet were designed and built in the same manner. Whether or not the apprentice was tasked to build the prototype for the craftsman to copy or the craftsman build them both for the sake of continuity I don't lknow. Suffice to say, I expect you will have to perform the duties of apprentice and craftsman. All part of the learning curve.

Good luck

David

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Here is the next chapter in my lingerie chest build: the drawers. Just two of eight so far. I cannot believe how long each one is taking! Hopefully I shall speed up as I now understand what is needed.

I did promise to post once I had a few done. I shall not get back to the build for about a month as we are off to the UK for a few weeks.

For those who just want the details, the link is: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ ... awers.html

These are compound angled drawers, with a bow front and angled sides. There are flush beaded slips, amongst the details.

For those who just want a progress picture, this is for you ...

(The carcase is Makore, a West African hardwood, while the drawers fronts are Jarrah)

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[custard]

I cannot believe how long each one is taking!

I believe the guidelines John Makepeace used to give at Parnham was that if you introduced one curved aspect into a piece of furniture you should cost the build time at x3, and if you introduced two curved aspects then it should be x10!

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Custard, thanks for that. It makes me feel better. I can put together a decent drawer in about 4 hours, but these each have taken 3 days! Oh well, at least it is not for a living. I would starve :shock:

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[marcros]

Derek, what is the Livos oil?

i am following the build with interest. beautiful work and design.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Derek, what is the Livos oil? ...

Hi Marcros

I was introduced to it a couple of years ago by a local high end furniture maker.

It took this ..

.. to this ...

From the manufacturer (Australian) ...

ARDVOS Universal Wood Oil #266

Product Description
Made from cold pressed flax seeds, the oil is combined with other natural waxes and resins to penetrate the timber surface. Reinforces and deepens the natural color of the wood grain. After 2 to 3 applications it produces a slight sheen and water-resistant surface. Easy to apply and rejuvenate.

Suitable for
For interior surfaces made from timber and cork, such as furniture, floors, stairs, parquetry, chopping boards and toys. Ventilate well in closed areas such as cupboards.

Full Declaration
Linseed oil, linseed oil - stand oil - natural resin ester, linseed oil - stand oil, linseed oil - wood oil -stand oil, natural resin glycerol ester, orange oil, isoaliphates, silicic acid, micronized wax, dehydrated amino sugar and drying agents free of lead.

Colours
Slightly honey-coloring.

Link: https://www.livos.com.au/shop/page/shop ... duct_id/37

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[AndyT]

I don't think you will find any readers able to offer tips from experience of a project of quite such curvaceous complexity!
I'm just content to watch your thoughtful, steady progress, with some awareness of just how hard it all is.

And I really like the continuous wild grain across the first two drawers!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

The oil would seem similar to a hard wax oil.

 

[G S Haydon]

I'd echo Andy, love the grain on the fronts and I can't help on the drawers! However, I'm sure you'll be quicker come the last drawer and you'll skill will have grown even higher too. Enjoying your progress so far.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi Andy and Graham

My iPad appears to lack a "thank you" button, so thanks for your kind words.

Regards from London

Derek

 

[G S Haydon]

Welcome to the UK Derek! We've arrange some sh1te weather for you!

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Fantastic work Derek.

Interestting to note that incorporating two curved surfaces to a project can multiply the build time by up to x10. I must remember that next time the going is slow.

On a positive note, perhaps a few weeks off from the build will have to champing at the bit when you return home.

I hope the current weather here is not to the detriment of your stay..........at least its mild (so far)

David