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I managed to do a little bit more to my bridge last week, I’ll admit it was an especially great time. My focus are the main beams now, and I managed to get my planer that I have been restoring since March to a useable standard enabling me to run the main beams through it. The beams are very large for an outfit like us, and barely manageable with 4 men.
Rather obviously, they are a critical component of the build, carrying all 10 posts that in turn carry all the rails and lnfill work, as well as all the treads that fit directly to them.
They are 5.5 metres long, 115-120mm thick and 605mm wide. My Wadkin FM planer will thickness to a maximum width of 615, so these are absolutely on the limit.

0E1F7044-7C4D-4C62-B70C-C98A74049083.jpeg


We set my planer up in the middle of the yard, Al fresco style, for a number of reasons, main one being the uninhibited access of simply forklifting the beams in place, running them through with (relative) ease, then repeating, another reason was the extraction was of the open air variety, being green oak you don’t get dust just a really nice large shaving, so with the bridge guard removed (don’t try this at home style) the chips were allowed to fly out the gap between the beds unobstructed clearing my cut and producing a superb finish. A total of 2 passes each taking 6mm off a time achieved the results I was after, a glass smooth finish and the performance of the Wadkin exceeded all expectations, incredibly powerful the motor didn’t even change tone.
It’s worth noting this planer has a very special block, it’s a two knife set up and the knives are skewed, producing a shear cut that is a pleasure to use (imagine hand planing it’s the difference between going head on with the tool or planing at an angle) it’s the small details that make the biggest difference.

51110D68-0E87-4D7C-B6B9-88CFCD5F0A7B.jpeg


That’s one big slab of timber. We estimated in excess of 200kg’s, these were £900 each, obviously a spare isn’t in the equation so care must be taken whilst machining etc.

E46B7013-39D1-4550-8595-925E477A42A6.jpeg


above is a photo of the finished article, ready for my template to be offered up and start cutting.


F18D9F39-D923-43D3-AA44-2D705326B632.jpeg


I laid up one side of my bridge, cramped it up exactly on my rod and offered the large beam template up where it needed to be, I then cut my plumb and seat cut on it directly off the side of the bridge via the rod, this now gives me my 1:1 for the main event.

BDF0E21F-A9C7-4B67-84E6-630AF26750FF.jpeg


It’s looks a little something like this, this beam was longer than the other, I left it on though as it’ll come in for post caps, as will the huge off cuts in the middle.
I draw around this with a pencil, and need to cut it out leaving around 2-3mil for facing up. I have a Mafell portable bandsaw, which is an incredible tool that I’ll demonstrate in the next thread, but the max throat cut is around 200mm, meaning I would have to take multiple cuts into that big middle offcut to get to my line, I don’t want to do that so I rough it out with my trusty Husky, getting me to with an inch of the desired cut line, it’s then I can use the bandsaw to get a lovely cut ready for machining.

FBA6E8E0-0839-433D-8251-C98CFC5B7C99.png


Marking all the way around with a pencil ready for the chainsaw.

C474BDDD-BBA1-4861-A80D-97973BCA27AC.png


Cutting around it very roughly with the chainsaw to get my initial curve, wanting to avoid a Wallace and Gromit style scene of cutting through the trestles as well as the workpiece.
I’ll leave it there for now and do another update next week.

Scotty
 
I managed to do a little bit more to my bridge last week, I’ll admit it was an especially great time. My focus are the main beams now, and I managed to get my planer that I have been restoring since March to a useable standard enabling me to run the main beams through it. The beams are very large for an outfit like us, and barely manageable with 4 men.
Rather obviously, they are a critical component of the build, carrying all 10 posts that in turn carry all the rails and lnfill work, as well as all the treads that fit directly to them.
They are 5.5 metres long, 115-120mm thick and 605mm wide. My Wadkin FM planer will thickness to a maximum width of 615, so these are absolutely on the limit.

View attachment 183580

We set my planer up in the middle of the yard, Al fresco style, for a number of reasons, main one being the uninhibited access of simply forklifting the beams in place, running them through with (relative) ease, then repeating, another reason was the extraction was of the open air variety, being green oak you don’t get dust just a really nice large shaving, so with the bridge guard removed (don’t try this at home style) the chips were allowed to fly out the gap between the beds unobstructed clearing my cut and producing a superb finish. A total of 2 passes each taking 6mm off a time achieved the results I was after, a glass smooth finish and the performance of the Wadkin exceeded all expectations, incredibly powerful the motor didn’t even change tone.
It’s worth noting this planer has a very special block, it’s a two knife set up and the knives are skewed, producing a shear cut that is a pleasure to use (imagine hand planing it’s the difference between going head on with the tool or planing at an angle) it’s the small details that make the biggest difference.

View attachment 183581

That’s one big slab of timber. We estimated in excess of 200kg’s, these were £900 each, obviously a spare isn’t in the equation so care must be taken whilst machining etc.

View attachment 183582

above is a photo of the finished article, ready for my template to be offered up and start cutting.


View attachment 183583

I laid up one side of my bridge, cramped it up exactly on my rod and offered the large beam template up where it needed to be, I then cut my plumb and seat cut on it directly off the side of the bridge via the rod, this now gives me my 1:1 for the main event.

View attachment 183584

It’s looks a little something like this, this beam was longer than the other, I left it on though as it’ll come in for post caps, as will the huge off cuts in the middle.
I draw around this with a pencil, and need to cut it out leaving around 2-3mil for facing up. I have a Mafell portable bandsaw, which is an incredible tool that I’ll demonstrate in the next thread, but the max throat cut is around 200mm, meaning I would have to take multiple cuts into that big middle offcut to get to my line, I don’t want to do that so I rough it out with my trusty Husky, getting me to with an inch of the desired cut line, it’s then I can use the bandsaw to get a lovely cut ready for machining.

View attachment 183587

Marking all the way around with a pencil ready for the chainsaw.

View attachment 183588

Cutting around it very roughly with the chainsaw to get my initial curve, wanting to avoid a Wallace and Gromit style scene of cutting through the trestles as well as the workpiece.
I’ll leave it there for now and do another update next week.

Scotty
Those slabs would make a fine benchtop! :ROFLMAO:
 
Chainsaws on this page, meanwhile on another page people arguing about 0.5 of a degree for sharpening a chisel! Lovely work Scotty that thicknessing looked like a hard work at the office day - thanks for the update

I have seen a few of those chisel and iron sharpening threads, they look best left to the professionals is my opinion 😄.
It was a fantastic day that was, it was heavy work and around 26 degrees so we all felt it, but great fun and to be honest the days of the unknown or spectacular tend to lend themselves to be the best of days. Pleased your enjoying the work 👍
 
Fantastic finish from the planer. Almost a shame to have to remove so much of the board for the curves.
The planer left has left an incredible finish on the oak, being green it always machines that little bit cleaner and smoother than if it were dry, but it’s still superb even under those circumstances.
It’s the nature of the beast when it comes to solid curved work, but the offcuts will come in for the large post caps and some other bits and bobs. You shall see all that by the threads end.
 
Hi @ScottyT ,
Brilliant fascinating thread this. Your photography and writing clearly illustrate the pleasure / pride you have in your craft. Thank you for sharing
Fred
 
6mm per pass over 600mm a beast of a machine! great finish too. I have a spiral cutting head in my modest machine(no where near capable of your tasks) and it does make all the difference with the cuts, the shear and shavings are far less work on the machine! looking forward to the Mafell !
 
6mm per pass over 600mm a beast of a machine! great finish too. I have a spiral cutting head in my modest machine(no where near capable of your tasks) and it does make all the difference with the cuts, the shear and shavings are far less work on the machine! looking forward to the Mafell !
I have heard quite a bit about these spiral head cutters, they seem to be the way to go these days. I’m still rocking a two knife HSS set up, it all works though! Thanks for the interest

Scotty
 
This post is all about the two main beams. You’ve seen them marked off from the template, I now need to cut them out. The throat on the bandsaw is a tiny 8”, and I want to keep my waste wood as wide as possible to use for my post caps, hence using the chainsaw to get within an 1” of the cut line.

Apologies on the quality of the photos, they are taken from clips as I deleted the stills like a plonker.

36037358-0376-46F8-83E0-EA52C8CD44F8.png


I am following a cut line about an inch away from the real deal here, that looks like this below


A279E913-3E25-4EB9-AF7B-7E3577FED676.png


Being careful not to cut through the trestles whilst I’m up there 😅

07FE4E7E-7D4F-4239-A2A5-7960A326ED9F.png


That’s one beam roughed out ready for the Mafell to cut nice and tight to the line to leave me with a finished cut on the router to face these up nice and smooth.
Now this little bandsaw is a great bit of kit, it’s perfect for this type of application where the big Sagar band saw is possible but just a logistical nightmare for the room I have, and the beam still weighs an awful lot so the less humping about the better.
It’ll cut 310mm deep, and has a 200mm throat, if you know what you’re doing and the band is correctly tensioned and sharp this’ll cut dead square, it’s incredible really.

52DF5970-59ED-45E0-8362-90D99851276C.png


This photo above is just to give some scale and show you the thing without the covers on, a neat tool.

551B728D-8FA4-416A-9333-810E8B37BB94.png
29F61CC0-27B1-411A-8DE8-36A0CFC0A1CB.png


I cut around the entire beam leaving no more than an 1/8th material on, readying for the facing up process.

3328089B-D352-45F3-A37A-043C68B5E9E8.jpeg


I am not a fan of routers in general, they have their place that’s for certain, and they can come in very handy from time to time, this is one of those times for me.
Putting the template back over the work, I set up a 3” flush cutter in my router and buzz all the way around the template (above photo for set up) which gets me close to the other side, i then flip the beam over, put a bottom bearing 2” flush cut bit in the tool and buzz around again off of the machine faced on the other side (below photo)

6B2C2535-6D33-478B-8C0A-FF99C179E486.png


Repeat this again and I have two beams out to the correct size. I applied a stop chamfer on the bottom curve, an arris all the way around both and a semi sand up so it’s all pretty much done. The plumb and seat cut that I had worked out on the template have been transferred on to the work so it’s a case of just setting them down dead level and we’re ready to go and connect them together.

D837E75A-4192-43EC-BB3A-67013CCB27C2.jpeg


0FAD5EF4-9871-4C15-89D5-2B52251DCC99.jpeg


They have come up a treat, they are dead level and in position here all set for the next phase. I must admit I feel it’s all a little large in the section dims for the size of the bridge but that’s not my department, and it all may come together and look proportional when it’s all on there. We shall see.

Scotty
 
Update on the bridge, just been plodding on with it really. A bit too busy right now so I am on it then off it then on it again sort of style. However progress is being made

With all of the components out, it is that time to lay it out on the rod, mark it, machine it, repeat. Lots of work here, I am using a 7/8 chisel for all of the infill work, tenons only being around an inch long.

DA4AEA47-8283-49BD-96BD-28F1D021194A.png


I apologise for the quality of the photo, again it’s a still from a video, but it illustrates some of the components on the rod.

3838062D-C5E4-470F-AE9C-8C8A1708F903.png


Very rare for me to crack off the edge and create a pillow joint but in this instance it lends itself well, the green oak is moving so for the best possible aesthetics and ease of assembly I have decided to go down this route.
It’s a case of now marking out very accurately to form all my shoulders and halvings as snug as I can them without being gas tight.
Stop chamfers 1 and a 1/4”s away from every shoulder and a sand up finishes these well.

102E85E2-5462-4485-9E80-1AF59C85C5BD.jpeg


1 done, 7 to go. All handed, head down and crack on style now.

824D985B-DF5C-40A2-B8C3-6F1DE78AC758.jpeg


First side laid up, I’m about an 1/8th out over 5m so I’m happy considering it was free hand, parallel is the most important thing here and it’s just that. Lovely.

1BBBE0EE-709F-47CF-BEAC-B8711537EB13.jpeg


View from the other side. Looks good so far

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Second side laid over first. Light at the end of the tunnel here, looking forwards lashing them to the main beams.

A4E10C48-0ED2-4381-817B-351DF06BDE5A.png


I used the trustee 29” 1950 Sagar bandsaw to grest effect for these post caps, great finished more or less straight off the band. 4 at 7x7 and 6 at 6x6.

Scotty
 

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Update on the bridge, just been plodding on with it really. A bit too busy right now so I am on it then off it then on it again sort of style. However progress is being made

With all of the components out, it is that time to lay it out on the rod, mark it, machine it, repeat. Lots of work here, I am using a 7/8 chisel for all of the infill work, tenons only being around an inch long.

View attachment 184658

I apologise for the quality of the photo, again it’s a still from a video, but it illustrates some of the components on the rod.

View attachment 184659

Very rare for me to crack off the edge and create a pillow joint but in this instance it lends itself well, the green oak is moving so for the best possible aesthetics and ease of assembly I have decided to go down this route.
It’s a case of now marking out very accurately to form all my shoulders and halvings as snug as I can them without being gas tight.
Stop chamfers 1 and a 1/4”s away from every shoulder and a sand up finishes these well.

View attachment 184664

1 done, 7 to go. All handed, head down and crack on style now.

View attachment 184661

First side laid up, I’m about an 1/8th out over 5m so I’m happy considering it was free hand, parallel is the most important thing here and it’s just that. Lovely.

View attachment 184665

View from the other side. Looks good so far

View attachment 184663View attachment 184662

Second side laid over first. Light at the end of the tunnel here, looking forwards lashing them to the main beams.

View attachment 184660

I used the trustee 29” 1950 Sagar bandsaw to grest effect for these post caps, great finished more or less straight off the band. 4 at 7x7 and 6 at 6x6.

Scotty
@ScottyT
Fascinating work and read as usual. When the bridge is finished is there a 'traditional' way of ' christening ' the bridge that you use?
Fred
 
@ScottyT
Fascinating work and read as usual. When the bridge is finished is there a 'traditional' way of ' christening ' the bridge that you use?
Fred
Haha, yeah there is Fred. Walk over it and hope that is stays in one piece.
If that goes well, then all is well so to speak
 
The bridge is all but finished now, i apologise for the lack of photos/information towards the end of the thread, its quite busy at the moment.

5D25EC43-E29A-4FED-8566-14A32797110A.jpeg


Here was the dry run back at the yard, M16 steel bar drilled straight through the lot (stainless steel to prevent the oak from devouring it in 5 minutes) and then nipped up to bring it all together as one.

E5D423FB-4A25-47F9-B90D-EC7C9E4D30DD.jpeg
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I will post up once more of it with all the treads in place, sanded uniformly with all the plugs flush etc but that’s the gist of the job.
It went very well, without a hitch etc but I would like to ‘sling’ my two pennies in at the end here.
the size and weight of this aside, along with the machinery required to do it from rough sawn lumber, this job was very simple, and it was simple mainly for one reason, and that is I can set out.
There was a small discussion at the start of this thread about why was I drawing it out and could I not use a computer or math to work it etc, and some people had never heard of a rod.
Im 34 years old, and did a 3 year apprenticeship in Joinery starting in 2009, i learnt close to pipper all in those 3 years, it was almost as if as long as you turned up you’d pass, but i did learn a little.
Rods were introduced on day dot of college, and I have not stopped using them to work since.
It is without a doubt the most important part of the 3 stages in Joinery.
The work in this bridge was the setting out, the rest of it was basic at best for anyone who’s familiar with machining.

It’s a satisfying trade that, for me at least, has taken time to become competent in. There are many elements to it. Lots of skill sets that take time to learn, it starts with being able to draw accurately, sharp pencil lines that are clear, correct dimensions, square, parallel and straight (or not in many cases)
It then moves on to the machines, knowing what does what, the parameters of each machine, the capabilities of it, making jigs to make the process more efficient/safer and so on, all the while you need to be able to use hand tools without thinking about it, shape profile cutters and balance them, change knives in blocks, keep everything sharp, maintain the machinery (in my case anyway)
That follows through into assembly, making sure it’s all ‘just right’ so it can be set square, parallel, no twist etc.
It always comes back to the rod, it’s won or lost before I’ve even fired up the planer. I’ll use the rod every time I start a new op, whether it’s cutting to length, to a shoulder line, putting a bevel on a component, morticing and so on, all the way up to gluing whatever it may be.
All three crossover at different stages, and when it all clicks into place it is superb. There is so much to learn still, and that is appealing in many ways and the nature of traditional Joinery.

Thanks for the interest over this thread and I hope you’ve enjoyed it.

Scotty
 

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The bridge is all but finished now, i apologise for the lack of photos/information towards the end of the thread, its quite busy at the moment.

View attachment 185283

Here was the dry run back at the yard, M16 steel bar drilled straight through the lot (stainless steel to prevent the oak from devouring it in 5 minutes) and then nipped up to bring it all together as one.

View attachment 185284View attachment 185285View attachment 185286

I will post up once more of it with all the treads in place, sanded uniformly with all the plugs flush etc but that’s the gist of the job.
It went very well, without a hitch etc but I would like to ‘sling’ my two pennies in at the end here.
the size and weight of this aside, along with the machinery required to do it from rough sawn lumber, this job was very simple, and it was simple mainly for one reason, and that is I can set out.
There was a small discussion at the start of this thread about why was I drawing it out and could I not use a computer or math to work it etc, and some people had never heard of a rod.
Im 34 years old, and did a 3 year apprenticeship in Joinery starting in 2009, i learnt close to pipper all in those 3 years, it was almost as if as long as you turned up you’d pass, but i did learn a little.
Rods were introduced on day dot of college, and I have not stopped using them to work since.
It is without a doubt the most important part of the 3 stages in Joinery.
The work in this bridge was the setting out, the rest of it was basic at best for anyone who’s familiar with machining.

It’s a satisfying trade that, for me at least, has taken time to become competent in. There are many elements to it. Lots of skill sets that take time to learn, it starts with being able to draw accurately, sharp pencil lines that are clear, correct dimensions, square, parallel and straight (or not in many cases)
It then moves on to the machines, knowing what does what, the parameters of each machine, the capabilities of it, making jigs to make the process more efficient/safer and so on, all the while you need to be able to use hand tools without thinking about it, shape profile cutters and balance them, change knives in blocks, keep everything sharp, maintain the machinery (in my case anyway)
That follows through into assembly, making sure it’s all ‘just right’ so it can be set square, parallel, no twist etc.
It always comes back to the rod, it’s won or lost before I’ve even fired up the planer. I’ll use the rod every time I start a new op, whether it’s cutting to length, to a shoulder line, putting a bevel on a component, morticing and so on, all the way up to gluing whatever it may be.
All three crossover at different stages, and when it all clicks into place it is superb. There is so much to learn still, and that is appealing in many ways and the nature of traditional Joinery.

Thanks for the interest over this thread and I hope you’ve enjoyed it.

Scotty
Brilliant work and thread. I've really enjoyed it. Thank you
Fred
 

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