Block Plane - Advice needed

[SVB]

Folks, I need some help to spend some cash!

I am after (I think) a nice block plane. I am making some delicate boxes and need a bit more finesse than my bench plane offers to tidy up the small dovetails across both grain directions, tidy up veneer banding etc + some delicate shooting.

I am thinking either the LN 9 1/2 or the 102 / 103. As for low angle or standard, I have not a clue. Equally, I am not sure of the benefit of iron / bronze in the selection.

Perhaps someone could suggest the best way to go (given one of each is lovely but not an option!) or at least some of the factors I should consider. OR - am I barking up the wrong tree and should be thinking of something else all together?

Thanks in advance.
Simon

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Hi Simon
Everyone will have their own faves.

For myself, a 60 1/2 low angle block with adjustable mouth would be the most flexible, as can use a high angle bevel and tighten the mouth for longrain. Also a decent size for shooting small parts.
Making patterned and striped shavings taking down stringing, purfling and other inlays is fab with one of these. I prefer the mouth tight for this, as whether or not groundless, at this point I'm approaching a milestone in a project and really don't want chunks of rosette or purfling getting pulled out.

WRT bronze/iron if looking at the smaller planes, the former is I think slightly heavier, and won't rust if you live in a swamp, but will mark the work if it isn't in constant use. I prefer iron.

Steve

 

[Racers]

Hi,

LN 60 1/2 is the one to go for its a cracking plane, loads better than the Stanley. Its ductile cast iron so it won't break when you drop it. The only thing I found wrong with it is the cap iron has a tendancy to fall off unless you countersink the end of the slot, David Charlesworth covers it in one of his books.

Here is mine.

Pete

 

[dunbarhamlin]

I wonder if they've since fixed that Pete, as I haven't had that problem.

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I got mine christmas before last when did you get yours? has it got a coutersink at the end of the slot?


Pete

 

[Boz62]

I followed Alf's review https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1815 and bought the Veritas Apron Plane a while back. I have found it very useful as a small, light, low angle trim plane, and it's quite a bit cheaper than the "full size" block planes. Might be another option for you?

Boz

 

[beech1948]

I would prefer the LV blocks to the LNs. I suggest a either a low angle or standard angle block from them. I mostly use the low angle.

regards
Alan

 

[Calpol]

Can only recommend the Veritas low angle block as it's the only one I've used, but the front knob you can buy for it is very handy, it could almost be left on...

 

[woodbloke]

The LV 60.5 is a great little block plane, probably one of the best around...but then so is the LV DX60 and the NX60 as all three are out in the 'shop - Rob

 

[Karl]

I've got the LV block, a LN 102 and a LN 140 (skew block plane).

I like the LV, but it feels a little too large and unwieldy in my hand. The LN 102 is great for small work, but my favourite is the LN 140. I know Alf didn't think that it is a Block plane to replace all others, but I disagree. If I could only have one, it'd be the LN 140.

Cheers

Karl

 

[Paul Chapman]

I have the Veritas low angle block plane and I think it's an excellent tool. I prefer the shape and size of it over the Lie Nielsen equivalent and I particularly like the Norris-style adjuster. Performance-wise there is probably nothing to choose between the Veritas and the Lie Nielsen but they feel different in the hand - always best to try before you buy in my view, as a lot depends on personal preferences.

Both planes are head and shoulders above the Stanley and Record offerings.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Hi,
I got mine christmas before last when did you get yours? has it got a coutersink at the end of the slot?
Pete

Hmmm, mine's a couple of years older than that. Must have just got lucky - maybe one mould was out of spec or something?
I did have a 140 with cap iron issues, but they were very quickly resolved - one of the benefits of manufacturers and suppliers such as LV, LN, CHT etc (happily today an exhaustive list would be rather long)
Cheers
Steve

 

[Racers]

Hi, Steve

Has yours got a countersink at the end of the slot? that the screw sits in?
I found it you loosen the cap iron to adjust it slides off the countersink stops this.


Pete

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Will check this evening

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Simon

I have several block planes. No, more than that. :shock:

Of relevance to you I have a LN #103 (one of my favourites, but not the one I'd choose for use at a bench), LN #60 1/2 (excellent user but not as good as the Veritas NX and DX, which now set the height of the bar), Veritas LA (too chunky and wide for my personal taste but very versatile), Stanley #65 (fantastic performer with Hock blade), Stanley #18 (fantastic performer with Japanese blade) .... (there are more ...!) They breed on their own, I tell you!

Please read my review of the Veritas Premium Plane(s). There is more in depth comparisons ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPremiumBlockPlane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[gidon]

The only thing I found wrong with it is the cap iron has a tendancy to fall off unless you countersink the end of the slot, David Charlesworth covers it in one of his books.

Mmm - I don't have that problem either - got mine about 4 years ago. The lever cap is counter-sinked though where the screw holds it to the plane body.

Cheers

Gidon

 

[woodbloke]

I got my LN block at the last Axminster show (anyone remember when that was?) and it doesn't appear to suffer from that sort of fault either - Rob

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Nope, not counter sunk, just chamfered.

Have reread Mr C's article and I can see how if loosened right off (say half enough to remove the blade) a large adjustment backwards might also shift the cap, but don't see why that's a problem, since any adjustment should finish by taking the slack up after backing off.

To adjust I only need to slacken off a smudge - from operating tension less than a quarter of the arc of travel available without repositioning my finger and thumb on the wheel. This seems to be more than enough for gross adjustments to edge projection.

For fine adjustments (including lateral adjustment with a plane hammer) I don't slacken off.
(The Stanley equivalent I do find a pain - though presumably just because I'm not as used to it)

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I remember loosing the cap iron after loosening it to adjust the blade and holding it upside down to see the blade projection, may be I was slackening it to much.

Pete

 

[SVB]

Hi,

Thanks all so far.

(From other thread) I have put some time in and sorted out my Stanley 9.5 (not in the same league I know but a 9.5 BP none-the-less).

However, I still feel I would like a small block plane for some delicate box work etc.

Therefore, the choice in narrowed down to the LV Apron plane or the LN 102.

I was interested to read some values the 'Norris adjuster' on the LV but LN owners clearly were not decrying the absence of one.

Also, re the DCI / Bronze debate, someone (Paul I think) mentioned bronze if not regularly used could mark the work. Is this really the case? I thought bronze was pretty inert.

Comments defiantly appreciated!

Simon.