Any electric oven experts in here?

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Jacob

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SMEG range cooker - unusable, large oven won't switch off.
Have contacted SMEG but in the meantime we are stuck.
Struck me I could take off the switch board and simply disconnect the large oven temporarily and continue to use the rest of it.
Is this a good idea?
Are there any service guides on line?
 
If you work on the oven you could invalidate the guarantee.

My mother got my brother who did electrical engineering at Imperial College (but does not have an electricians ticket) to wire in a new cooker. He did not want to do it but she did not want to pay and badgered him. The cooker developed a fault and they refused to fix it. She had to buy a new cooker.
 
If you work on the oven you could invalidate the guarantee.

My mother got my brother who did electrical engineering at Imperial College (but does not have an electricians ticket) to wire in a new cooker. He did not want to do it but she did not want to pay and badgered him. The cooker developed a fault and they refused to fix it. She had to buy a new cooker.
Right ho ta. It's out of guarantee.
 
SMEG are generally well made which means they are also repairable. Temporarily disconnecting the main oven should be fine. If it is like our smeg the elements are accessible from the rear of the unit. You could simply disconnect the element which has spade connectors. Obviously be very careful insulating the disconnected connectors.

Edit: might be the thermostat, which is also replaceable.
 
SMEG are generally well made which means they are also repairable. Temporarily disconnecting the main oven should be fine. If it is like our smeg the elements are accessible from the rear of the unit. You could simply disconnect the element which has spade connectors. Obviously be very careful insulating the disconnected connectors.

Edit: might be the thermostat, which is also replaceable.
OK thanks. Will have a look. Got local expert coming Thursday but it's a long wait.
Don't think it's thermostat as it stays on even when everything on the cooker is switched off.
 
I had problems with a smeg oven and it was wired to a unswitched fused face plate. I removed the fuse but still received a shock. So double check there is no power before touching anything. Kitchen fitter wired the wrong wire to the fuse?
 
I had problems with a smeg oven and it was wired to a unswitched fused face plate. I removed the fuse but still received a shock. So double check there is no power before touching anything. Kitchen fitter wired the wrong wire to the fuse?
OK it's switched. I'd pull the fuse out anyway, just to make sure.
 
When you say it won't switch off do you mean the heating element, or the fan? Espares do a good round of diagnostic videos which may help.

 
When you say it won't switch off do you mean the heating element, or the fan? Espares do a good round of diagnostic videos which may help.


Heating element won't switch off. I might have a look at the back and disconnecting the element then the rest of it (small oven, hob) could be usable. I'd wrap the connectors in insulating tape etc. Don't want to make anything worse though!
 
The heating element won’t switch itself on and off; that’s a function of the thermostat in conjunction with the on/off/control knob. So the odds are the element itself will be fine once you have identified the problem. I would replace the thermostat which is most likely the problem. However, I have once found a melted wire covering shorting to earth to cause the same fault. That was not your brand though, and odd. I’d bet on the thermostat
 
Took cover off - disconnected the oven element from the back. Switched cooker on at mains and immediate smoke from the control panel and it looks nackered and sooty. That seems to be the prob. Have called the local expert and will leave it to him - I don't want to make it worse.
7 years old. Not like the old days when an ordinary cooker would last 50 years!

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If you work on the oven you could invalidate the guarantee.

My mother got my brother who did electrical engineering at Imperial College (but does not have an electricians ticket) to wire in a new cooker. He did not want to do it but she did not want to pay and badgered him. The cooker developed a fault and they refused to fix it. She had to buy a new cooker.
Fitted by "Competent person" So many get sucked in by tickets etc! Can be done by a competent person even with part P then get's passed by a Part P person which is for domestic Dwellings but not commercial which comes under Snicks.
Ive done lot's of electrics not qualified but more than competent and it's been fine esp if your not only using correct items but also tools.
Had to go in a few places and correct things done by so called Electricians as one had wired up a cooker extended cable with poxy Scotch locks(Was responsible for more car fires than anything else)SC had been melting!
Another was friends mates kitchen friend was fitting out after MFI type loons had messed guy around and twin and earth in dot n dab wall(used that steel stud work)wires went all over rather than a run and outer insulation stripped back miles and inner not so good. Mine is as tight as possible
So if asked you tell them it was wired in by a competent person and unless they demand a copy of Electricians Qualifications/18th/19th Edition that is sufficient and just don't elaborate as just dig yourself an hole.
Only thing that demands a fully qualified person to attempt anything is Gas and need a Gas Safe person.
 
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That is absolute rubbish. When anyone comes to sell, the purchaser expects to see Part P compliance for any works and the certificates to prove it. You want to busk it. That's your call.
 
That is absolute rubbish. When anyone comes to sell, the purchaser expects to see Part P compliance for any works and the certificates to prove it. You want to busk it. That's your call.
If you care to read it "Properly" I stated you get it handed off by a part P certificate which is for main circuits anyway like ring mains/Fuse boards.
 
You're right HS.

You can wire up your own house and get it checked and certified afterwards. I did this with the extension I built for mum and there are companies which supply the testing and certification only. They come to inspect the first fix and then do a part P test and certificate once it's complete.

It's completely legal and to the regs to do it this way in the UK.
 
New oven wiring is not covered by Part P as it is not notifiable unless a new dedicated circuit is required. The termination point is the isolator / fused spur, anything after that is deemed to be an appliance and excluded so a trained chimp can do it

Sounds like the main control board is toast - these are around £150-200 plus fitting so consider if spending £300 on a 7 year old cooker is practical as replacement may only be double that
 
Here we have this meaningless 'qualified person' marlarky becoming very widespread.
In a recent renovation we shifted a toilet a few metres and talking with the council building inspector, was informed that I am allowed to install a toilet and its associated pipework but the connection to the sewer line must be made by a 'qualified person.' Was I a qualified person he asked, so I said yes. Admittedly my qualification is in the delivery of emergency medicine but then he didn't ask.
Under pressure from the child bride I relented, dug the hole to éxpose the sewer, prepared the job and had the pleasure of paying $300 to a 'qualified person' to smear a bit of glue in the socket end of a 80mm 90° bend and stick it on the end of the sewer pipe.
 
Is it any wonder we have DIY electrics when this is the manufacturers wiring diagram for a Humidistat controlled extract fan.

Just to add my two penny worth, there is no such thing as a qualified electrician, hence the mention and meaning of "competent"
Fuse.png
 
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