Worktop joins with 1/4” router

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Lbaron

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Hi all. I received some bad advice before, need some help joining my kitchen worktops!

I am trying to cut the dog bones for joining worktops with bolts. I am using this jig: Worktop Jig 700 - Worktop Express

I have a Bosch 1200 AE 1/4” router. I was told that this would work because the plunge depth is 55mm, easily enough to go halfway through my 40mm beech worktop. Of course now I have it I realise that the plunge depth is not the cutting depth. The tip of the blade only protrudes 20mm from the bottom of the router (why is it designed this way??).

With the jig on top, this means I can only get 5mm deep into the wood - no good at all.

I need a much longer router bit - can anyone recommend one please? I also need a 30mm guide bush, can anyone recommend one that would fit my router?

I am loathe to have to buy or rent a 1/2” router for one small job.

Thanks so much for any help!
Liam
 
If you go carefully you can cut them freehand so getting more depth - it's not hard to be reasonably accurate so long as you're not forcing the router. It's not seen afterwards. Take several shallow cuts., and be careful - 1/4" cutters haven't the strength of 1/2" ones. This applies just the same if using a bush.

https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_1_4__Shank_237.html
 
I wouldn't trust a 1/4 inch router to cut the bolt recesses, its tough work. It's far safer to cut them by hand, drill a hole in the correct position, you can work this out with your jig or the bolt itself, use a forstener type bit, cut the slots with a tenon saw and chisel.
 
30mm guide bush here:

https://www.powertoolspares.com/acc...uide-bush-template-guide-quick-fastening-lock
Bosch part number is 2609200142 so search on that for alternative suppliers.

Can you use the existing jig and a top bearing bit to make a new, thinner one (that suits the guide bush)?

Can you remove the sole plate of the router to gain a bit more depth?

If you can get a correctly-dimensioned outline 5mm deep, you can cut that into some 4mm ply numerous times. Stack them up until the top bearing bit can be used with them on the work surface. Remove them one at a time until the depth is reached.

As you have a 5mm deep outline now, remove the bulk of the remaining material by hand to give the machine an easier time.

Off-the-wall idea: the outside of the router is circular. Use the bushed template you have to make a huge template so the outside of the router is the guide. Then the router could sit on the worktop surface and its 20mm cut depth would do what you need.
 
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I don't see how you can avoid buying a 1/2'' router.
You'll need it to cut the mitres.
I got an Erbauer from SF when I did my kitchen.
 
For this sort of work you need a 1/2 router because you get the plunge depth and 1/2 cutters are more rigid, you also get the power.
 
I can see him cutting the recesses, but no way the mitres for the joint, unless he's doing a butt joint I suppose.
 
I can see him cutting the recesses, but no way the mitres for the joint, unless he's doing a butt joint I suppose.
I’ve butt jointed worktops that don’t have a post formed edge on previous jobs but using a 1/2 “ machine. I guess a trial freehand cut could be made using a worktop off cut - as said above it’s probably never going to be seen . Care would have to be exercised not to make the slots too big.
 
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