Put conduit or better, trunking around the top of your wall and drop 20 or 25mm conduit down to your sockets as required.
For a diy workshop, plastic is good enough.
Keep as much of your wall clear as possible. My walls are covered in shelving, french cleats, wall mounter air filter, wall mounted motor drives, etc, so place your conduit drops where they won't overly restrict your use of the walls. Eg on narrower features of the walls or between your storage.
Take time to plan this and have your workshop layout figured first.
Surface mounted outlets, conduits etc can be reconfigured if you have a major revision of your shop layout. Wire it up in what electricians call "singles". Individual reels or brown, blue and green/yellow wire. The conduit serves in place of the sheath on ordinary twin and earth wiring.
Use metalclad double power sockets in surface mount boxes.
Include one or two strategically placed 16A blue CE sockets if you are likely to use machines with bigger than 1500-1600W induction motors. These should be "switched, interlocked" types that lock the plug into the socket when you turn them on.
A trick for a small shop if you need a power point above a bench or wherever is to fit a fused switched outlet high on the wall or even the ceiling, and wire a blue CE 16A trailing socket into that on a couple of feet of flex. This limits you to 13A but protects the circuit as CE plugs and sockets don't have a fuse like a normal mains plug. The trailing socket can then be hung from the ceiling on a short length of chain. This is handy if for instance you want to plug in an orbital sander. My pillar drill is plugged into one of these.
Using CE connectors here isn't about power, it's because they are physically robust and have a sprung cover which acts as a latch to hold the plug in place. They also often have a strong eye on the side where a chain or cord can be connected.
Finally, once the wall is covered in benches and storage, access to the lower part of the wall is awkward. I have no power outlets on the lower half of my walls. Every socket is above bench height plus a few extra inches so the cords have room to hang and bend before they hit a surface. Install them like you would the sockets above your kitchen worktop.
A few vine eye type metal eyelets screwed into the ceiling timbers is handy for suspending cables. If I need an extension cable, like as not it gets plugged into a 16A switched socket or one of the suspended ones I mentioned, then I string the flex from eyelet to eyelet across the ceiling with a quick cord tie. The huge advantage of this is that the cord doesn't drag across machines or work surfaces, nor is it on the floor which is already small enough and I'm not stomping or tripping on it.
