Workshop socket layout

[DomP]

I'm at the stage of laying out my sockets and lighting in my workshop, I plan on running 25mm conduit but cant decide whether to run it horizontally from socket to socket or across the top of the wall and drop down to each double socket. What are everyone's thoughts?

Spacing I thought 12-1500mm between each socket and at minimum of 1200mm from the floor.

 

[Terry - Somerset]

I am not sure about whether vertical or horizontal is compliant or really matters - but I would plan on double the number of sockets/halve the spacing.

Any machine may additionally require a task light. If you have machines on castors because of space constraints you don't want wires trailing across the floor to a spare socket. Finally, whilst some machines may take up 1200-1500mm, some like bench grinders may be much closer.

 

[Cabinetman]

Not sure if it’s relevant and I’m not an electrician, but the one who did my workshop put 50mm square trunking all around the top of the room with 25mm circular drops every 2400, some have never been used whilst I could have done with another where a workstation for sanders is. He used loose wires in the trunking etc, I think it saves cash on buying and his time stripping off the outer covering.
How many and where does depend on the size of your workshop to some extent. But definitely worthwhile planning with a scale drawing and bits of card of your equipment also to scale.
Ian
Edit, one important thing I got wrong was that I had lined the interior with 2x4’s with insulation between, where I went wrong was using the big timbers for the wiring and sockets on the drops, this meant there was precious little else to fasten things to on the walls. Planning is so important.

 

[niemeyjt]

I have always gone vertical - but behind stud walls it was easiest - with conduit that is less of an issue.

Think about one or two 16A sockets in addition to 13A - some machines may require it.

 

[Chubber]

Think on having some sockets at skirting board height, fewer future trip hazards, as well as bench height outlets.

 

[robgul]

. . . and only fit the metalclad type surface boxes, switches and sockets - it's easy to knock and crack the plastic ones.

 

[Spectric]

@Cabinetman mentions the way to go, it is how it is done in industrial plants where you have box trunking with drops to metalclad 13 amp sockets or three phase isolators and makes it easy to add in the future. In a home workshop PVC conduit is fine for the drops and use metalclad sockets as the normal plastic types are just brittle and don't like impacts. When it comes to the wiring forget you have ever heard of the word ring main, do it properly with radials and make sure it is fully tested to ensure that it not only functions but is safe and compliant.

 

[Blackswanwood]

+1 for the points made by @Cabinetman and @Spectric.

If you are wondering about what lighting to go for I would suggest considering led panels.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

+1 for 16a sockets. I used the cheapest twin sockets I could find on the theory that nearly everything I used would be plugged in permanently, and if I every damaged one or had one fail it would be cheap to replace - metal clad are ideal, but if you install 25 as I did the cost escalates dramatically. In ten years I didn't damage one or have one fail. I had three led panels fail within 12 months of installation.