Workshop Security

[dave261266]

Although the post code is a good idea it will really only come into it's own if the police recover the items. And the chances of that are low.

Being the victim of a workshop burglary myself a few months ago I can appreciate now how a small padlock is not really the best way of securing the workshop They didn't take anything other than power tools or things that lived in the same boxes as the power tools. It's the irritating things like the dovetail bit that lived in the box with the router I used for dovetailing. And you don't realise until you need the piece later down the line that it's missing and that's where it must have been. Still, on the bright side I got some new updated tools, 5 year old routers replaced with brand new ones, brand new sanders etc. which is good.

The only thing that's a shame is that when you put your claim in there will be something that you hardly used and you'd rather get something different in it's place - that's really irritating.

I must admit, all credit to the insurance company - I thought, because I didn't have proof of purchase for most of the items as they were gifts or very old, that they would not replace them, but they did without any question.

 

[Alf]

What I've done is to engrave my post code onto the plastic or metal bits and also take a digital photo of each tool, including valuable hand tools.

Hah, that's how I got my LN #4 1/2. The chap put his postcode all over the darn thing, the insurance paid for replacement, this one was recovered and subsequently sold via PFT. Only problem is one of the places he elected to put the info was under the rear tote, and the policeman (presumably) who removed same to check it made the most horrible mess of the job. So be careful exactly where you put the mark!

Cheers, Alf

 

[Chris Knight]

Alf,
PFT? What is it exactly?

 

[Alf]

Sorry, Chris - Pennyfarthing Tools #-o

Cheers, Alf

 

[Sailor]

Evening,

When I finished my workshop, I decided against double glazing for the windows. Stuck to single glazing and then fitted high grade polycarbonate as a secondary fitting. We tried a left-over piece mounted in a wooden frame and we couldn't break it with a brick, It damaged the frame instead!
It did work out quite a lot more expensive than 'normal' plastic/poly sheeting and came via a friend who secures vehicles for people.
There is also a couple of Axis cameras running on the home computer network, they are set to take a photo every 20 secs, but as soon as movement is detected on any of the interior/exterior contacts, they start a running recording and store them on the file server which will then send an e-mail and an SMS message. (There are no notices regarding the cameras, as they aren't pointing to an area where they might capture the public and are not remotely controlled, so there is no requirement re Privacy or Data Protection)

Colin

 

[arch]

OK,
So you have done everything within your power to stop entry lets just say they get in. The latest thing in security, masking your stuff what do I mean ??

Check this link http://www.bandituk.co.uk/

Click on the play button and imagine that is your workshop!
Incase you are wondering - You can breathe and it is not steam.

So the way this works they get in but can't see anything and get a tad worried when they can't find their way out.
The only thing on their mind then is escapeing your tools are safe.

Keep it sharp guys

Regards

Arch

 

[Shultzy]

In the course of designing my workshop the subject of security has never been far from my mind. The usual items came up, shutters, locks, and alarms. Shutters are a physical deterrent and I wondered what other physical barrier I could put on the doors besides locks.

My workshop will have three doors, one lockable and two hinged together which I can bolt/lock from the inside. On a recent visit to Warwick Castle I remember the large beam the occupants would place across the main door to resist battering rams. This seems fairly easy to do, "U" brackets and a piece of 4x2.

I then wondered if I cut the main door in half (like stable doors), and put the beam across all three doors and exit through the lower half. I know it will be difficult the get in/out but this will also be the case for an intruder.

I then wondered how small you could make the entry door, probably 2x2, but maybe this is too small and impracticable.

Then a brainwave (maybe ). What if I make a small door in the side of the workshop (4x2 or slightly bigger) which I can slide the beam through and lock with a mortice lock. A lock could be put on the bar and two beams would make it stronger.

I know this may not be ideal, but it could be fitted retrospectively.

Below are a couple of diagrams which should make things clearer.

Comments would be much appreciated.

Pics are a bit hazy, but its all that TurboCad will export.

 

[jobsagooden]

Arch
What mile long dead lanes likes for security?

Is there any good battery, phone your mobile alarms out there?

Also all the expensive tools are in a steel cabinet locked with a disc lock. I would say the only way in would be with a petrol cutter.

Thanks for all your tips .

 

[jobsagooden]

Shultzy,

I also was thinking along the same style. Though i was thinking about a pulley to lift it out of the way. The problem i though of was what if it got stuck i would look a plonker.

Your way might well work. The best thing about having it like this is they won't be able to work it out very easily.