spg
Established Member
morfa":2xk75qyy said:
It is a Eurovudas cabin and I bought mine online from Garden Adventure. I got the Rumus/Rumak style.
HTH
Steve
WIP Small hand tools workshop - flooring and insulation now
- Thread starter morfa
- Start date
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It is a Eurovudas cabin and I bought mine online from Garden Adventure. I got the Rumus/Rumak style.
HTH
Steve
The man cave is go!
After a chat with Bern and my experience with the kitchen the man cave is being outsourced. I'd love to have more space and have a man cave made of SIPs, but at the same time I'd really love to stop working in my kitchen. So as the weather was nice on Monday I cracked on with widening the base a bit. The local shed makers will do me a 12x8 shed for £1200 and installation is about £60. So here's a few pics, firstly clearing the wood and stuff off the base:
Then the woodpile once it'd been moved.
Then dug the channel out and filled it with gravel:
Then put some (not enough) concrete in to the hole:
#
Just need to make a small drain on the other side of the hard standing and add a bit more concrete to the current batch. That's a job for the weekend I guess. I'm going to check out and order the shed this evening.
After a chat with Bern and my experience with the kitchen the man cave is being outsourced. I'd love to have more space and have a man cave made of SIPs, but at the same time I'd really love to stop working in my kitchen. So as the weather was nice on Monday I cracked on with widening the base a bit. The local shed makers will do me a 12x8 shed for £1200 and installation is about £60. So here's a few pics, firstly clearing the wood and stuff off the base:
Then the woodpile once it'd been moved.
Then dug the channel out and filled it with gravel:
Then put some (not enough) concrete in to the hole:
Just need to make a small drain on the other side of the hard standing and add a bit more concrete to the current batch. That's a job for the weekend I guess. I'm going to check out and order the shed this evening.
Attachments
The old shed went this weekend. Couple of hours work in the morning to haul it down. I trod on a nail which was nice and painful as well. I'll post pictures of the pile of rubbish (it's a bigun) later on.
Bought a Titan 5kg SDS drill which was excellent for cutting the ditch on the side of the shed slab. Just got to get some breeze blocks ready to put the shed on when it's delivered next week. Normally I'd be wary of such a cheap drill, but it's ace. For the few jobs I need it for, it's cheaper than hiring a proper breaker.
Bought a Titan 5kg SDS drill which was excellent for cutting the ditch on the side of the shed slab. Just got to get some breeze blocks ready to put the shed on when it's delivered next week. Normally I'd be wary of such a cheap drill, but it's ace. For the few jobs I need it for, it's cheaper than hiring a proper breaker.
Berncarpenter
Established Member
Well done Morfa, nice looking shed and far enough away from the house so you can make plenty of noise.
Cheers Bern
Cheers Bern
No skills
Established Member
Good for you. If you haven't already - put some coach bolts through the door hinges, no point having locks if thieving scum can just un-screw the door hinges.
Stimpi
Established Member
I think you should consider building it your self the cost savings are substantial, Its not difficult. Look out for builders carrying out extensions. They skip good timber because the rules say cant use untreated timber. I have just built a shed for my daughter out of reclaimed storm damaged wood. I have a fridge in my man shed, it takes up room but visitors don't complain.
MMUK
Established Member
morfa":3vobykf1 said:
£200 for bricks? :shock: You planning a dwarf wall? You should not be paying any more than £0.35 for a best stock Class B engineering brick with the VAT.
Stimpi - I got someone else to build it for me in the end. Too many other big jobs on at the moment otherwise, including a big garden re-landscape and a kitchen build.
MMUK - I might(*) have stuffed up the costings. But I was going to build a small wall 2 courses high and two bricks wide, with pillars in the middle. Also that included mortar as well. Apparently costs of such things can vary by up to 30% tho.
(yes, I'm being cheeky, hope you don't mind). However I've had someone else build the shed in the end.
I just did the base out of bricks we had in the garden and about £50's worth of breeze blocks and mortar. Wickes is generally cheap, but it seems a lot just for some bricks and fancy sand. But hey. maybe I ought to be going to a proper merchants. The installation was a bit of a faff really. I put the blocks on the base and went 'ace job done'. The guys came along and went 'that's not level, we can't install it'. So I had to buy more blocks, mortar and then spend a morning making the base properly level. I spent a lot of time swearing and wishing I'd made the shed myself. Still it's all done now. But I am going to have to put better flooring in as it's a bit bouncy. Kind of annoying for £1200 that it's so bouncy.
* probably/definitely
MMUK - I might(*) have stuffed up the costings. But I was going to build a small wall 2 courses high and two bricks wide, with pillars in the middle. Also that included mortar as well. Apparently costs of such things can vary by up to 30% tho.
(yes, I'm being cheeky, hope you don't mind). However I've had someone else build the shed in the end.I just did the base out of bricks we had in the garden and about £50's worth of breeze blocks and mortar. Wickes is generally cheap, but it seems a lot just for some bricks and fancy sand. But hey. maybe I ought to be going to a proper merchants. The installation was a bit of a faff really. I put the blocks on the base and went 'ace job done'. The guys came along and went 'that's not level, we can't install it'. So I had to buy more blocks, mortar and then spend a morning making the base properly level. I spent a lot of time swearing and wishing I'd made the shed myself. Still it's all done now. But I am going to have to put better flooring in as it's a bit bouncy. Kind of annoying for £1200 that it's so bouncy.
* probably/definitely
Stimpi
Established Member
Well done Morfa it looks fine happy days ahead Did the guys you got in manufacture the shed or they just put a bought one up? I forgot to mention the founds or base. It dose not matter which route you go down build your own or buy the base is a cost and its better to get a good one. I will rephrase, a substantial one.
Next job electrics?
Enjoy
Mike B
Next job electrics?
Enjoy
Mike B
Mike - I'm not entirely sure if they made it themselves or got it from elsewhere. I suspect that they got it from elsewhere. Apart from the floor being a bit poorly designed, the rest of it is good.
No electrics, I don't have any powertools of note. I've got a tracksaw, but I don't use that often anyway. I've found a place you can get solar panels from and I'm going to hook them up to batteries for lighting. A kelly kettle will do the tea and coffee making functions. I would like to put a small woodburner in, but I'm not convinced it's the safest idea in the world.
Next job is to finish the kitchen, then I'll get back to lining and insulate the shed.
No electrics, I don't have any powertools of note. I've got a tracksaw, but I don't use that often anyway. I've found a place you can get solar panels from and I'm going to hook them up to batteries for lighting. A kelly kettle will do the tea and coffee making functions. I would like to put a small woodburner in, but I'm not convinced it's the safest idea in the world.
Next job is to finish the kitchen, then I'll get back to lining and insulate the shed.
Ok I'm back to having some time and money, so I'd like to get this finished off. Two main things need doing and I'd like opinions on both.
Firstly the floor isn't the most solid thing and I was hoping to improve that a bit. Would it be good enough just to put 22mm chipboard flooring on top of what's there? Or should I remove part of the flooring and put some bigger and stronger bracing underneath the current floor, replace that and then add the chipboard flooring?
Secondly, what's the best way to line it? I've worked out that it'll take 10 sheets of 2.4x1.2m sheet goods. So I can put a 1 inch batten on to the current frame, install my 2" kingspan insulation in the gap, cover that with a vapour barrier. Then put something on top. But what? I would really like to put a small woodburner in there. So I'd been thinking 11mm OSB with fireproof plasterboard on top. The expensive route (but then I could screw into anything) would be 18mm ply. I was thinking that a OSB/plasterboard mix would work in terms of being able to screw into anything? Obviously MDF wouldn't be suitable and I don't think chipboard would be a good idea either?
Also should the vapour barrier go down before the insulation or after?
Firstly the floor isn't the most solid thing and I was hoping to improve that a bit. Would it be good enough just to put 22mm chipboard flooring on top of what's there? Or should I remove part of the flooring and put some bigger and stronger bracing underneath the current floor, replace that and then add the chipboard flooring?
Secondly, what's the best way to line it? I've worked out that it'll take 10 sheets of 2.4x1.2m sheet goods. So I can put a 1 inch batten on to the current frame, install my 2" kingspan insulation in the gap, cover that with a vapour barrier. Then put something on top. But what? I would really like to put a small woodburner in there. So I'd been thinking 11mm OSB with fireproof plasterboard on top. The expensive route (but then I could screw into anything) would be 18mm ply. I was thinking that a OSB/plasterboard mix would work in terms of being able to screw into anything? Obviously MDF wouldn't be suitable and I don't think chipboard would be a good idea either?
Also should the vapour barrier go down before the insulation or after?
mindthatwhatouch
Established Member
Re Flooring, definitely be inclined to up the support/bracing before boarding over.
Re Cladding. Run strips of 25mm ply around the shed, 600mm strips one at head height one at benchtop height. this is in addition to the battens. you can the plasterboard over the top and also have something nice and solid to fix to. Vapour barrier warm side of the insulation.
Re Cladding. Run strips of 25mm ply around the shed, 600mm strips one at head height one at benchtop height. this is in addition to the battens. you can the plasterboard over the top and also have something nice and solid to fix to. Vapour barrier warm side of the insulation.
Hi, hope shed build is progressing well morfa, and weather hasnt delayed progress down there...
interested in an earlier comment from noskills
you would do this by drilling through and in across the hinges to secure them to the door, otherwise it wouldnt shut he said obviously... coach bolt heads being quite large....
my garage door opens out so slightly stronger from being kicked in point of view, and hinges go into the frame and door and to unscrew, you'd need to open the door somehow?
any clues,, much apprciated. my spatial visualisation letting me down a bit on this one..
Cheers!
interested in an earlier comment from noskills
No skills":1enrn9dg said:
you would do this by drilling through and in across the hinges to secure them to the door, otherwise it wouldnt shut he said obviously...
coach bolt heads being quite large....my garage door opens out so slightly stronger from being kicked in point of view, and hinges go into the frame and door and to unscrew, you'd need to open the door somehow?
any clues,, much apprciated. my spatial visualisation letting me down a bit on this one..
Cheers!
SteveB43":2yghhw2h said:Hi, hope shed build is progressing well morfa, and weather hasnt delayed progress down there...
interested in an earlier comment from noskills
No skills":2yghhw2h said:
you would do this by drilling through and in across the hinges to secure them to the door, otherwise it wouldnt shut he said obviously...
Probably too late for you now. This is for the cheapo shed doors, which have the hinges on the outside. Like this:
http://www.secrets-of-shed-building.com ... CF1738.jpg
What you're describing there has the hinges hidden in the door, so you shouldn't need to do anything.
I've finished the floor. After a bit of dithering, I just built a frame out of 2x4s, put polystyrene insulation between the frame and covered it with 18mm T&G chipboard floor. There's still a bit of bounce when it's empty, but once it's loaded and everything has sunk down, it's all good. Certainly good enough for me. I've just got to finish insulating the walls and I'm good. I'm going to plasterboard the one side, which won't have much hung on it. The side where the tools are going to go will be plywood, so I can screw into that where ever.
