WIP Competition Entry "Chess Table" FINISHED

[Lord Nibbo]

Doing a test using Posterous.....

Cut some biscuits in the mitred sides and did a glue up I used so many clamps I had to break out Steve Maskery's unique square to test how square it was from the inside of the glue up as I couldn't do my normal diagonal measuring using a tape.

 

[Ironballs]

Good looking build so far - as usual

 

[Chrisp]

Nibbo, sun in Devon? can't remember the last time? maybe 20-30mins today, well out weighed by the rain though!.....

 

[Lord Nibbo]

The bottom of the drawer unit is 3/8" maple veneered mdf and is simply glued on directly to the frame of the drawer unit. But as I only had 1/2" I had to thin it down to 3/8" using my belt sander. In the first pic you can see two pieces of scrap in the foreground which when thicknessed will become the moldings.

After thicknessing to 1/2" they were passed over a 1/4" radius cutter on my table router to make a half round, then this was cut off on the table saw leaving perfect half moon moldings for edging the mdf base.

Ripping off the half moon molding

Molding pinned and glued in place

All the moldings applied, You may have noticed the varnish on the mdf, well I only had some mahogany stain varnish but I thought it more prudent to seal the mdf before it gets a chance to warp. :lol:

 

[Waka]

Certainly making good progress there, its starting to come together nicely.

 

[Alex]

Looking good L.N. Another beautiful piece of fine furniture.
I must say i really appreciate your workshop lay out. :mrgreen:
I mean look at this little forethought....

A square off cut bin built in, now that's class. My trip hazard round bin doesn't like square off cuts.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Drawer runners and gussets fitted

A close up of a drawer runner

Close up of a gusset. The drilled hole in the gusset is to fix the top, directly below that hole in the bottom of the unit is another larger hole enabling me to get to the screws when I position the top.

Directly below the left hand clamp head you can see the larger hole that will allow me to fix the top on later.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Fitting the legs to the top


Holes drilled to take the base, (the unit is upside down) the big holes are the ones to get a screwdriver through to attach the top.

The drawer unit gets screwed to the legs.

Starting The Drawer.

Half blind dovetails started. Extreme care needed on the length of the drawer because it has two fronts to line up, so using half blind dovetails adds to the chaos.

Two down, another six to go.

Dry fitting the first joint, three more to go.

 

[Waka]

Coming along, by the way nice drive by.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

All four corners done and here I'm dry fitting the sides to the fronts.

Grove dado or housing joint call it what you like cut in all the four sides for the bottom panel, using the router table. The grove on the fronts are blind so you can't see them when assembled.

All glued up and ready for a sanding.

Sanded and in place, I added a chamfer to the lower edge and sides of the front to give the illusion of a gap all round.

 

[Chems]

Sanded and in place, I added a chamfer to the lower edge and sides of the front to give the illusion of a gap all round.

Illusion of a gap, I'd just be happy to have smaller gaps in my work!

Looks so good LN.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Illusion of a gap, I'd just be happy to have smaller gaps in my work!

Looks so good LN.

I'm at a point now to add some string inlay to the sides and I'm undecided if not to add lipping in contrasting wood around the drawer fronts.

Adding the lipping is going to hide the half blind dovetails :shock: Then thinking about it it all about the aesthetics of what it looks like with the drawer shut :?

What does the forum think?

 

[Waka]

LN

Personally I'd leave the drawer without the cock beading, the way it looks at the moment is excellent.

You could use a lighter wood for the CB but I'm not so sure that the drawer wood is dark enough to show off the two contrasting colours. Only my opinion.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Thanks for your opinion Waka, but after much deliberation and soul searching I'm afraid to say I've already planed 3mm off the ends of the fronts, so there is no going back now, what ever the forum thinks :lol:

Anyway the purpose of this posting

Take a look at this......

Is ABW allergic to water based acrylic lacquer?

Yesterday I grabbed a load of scrap pieces and thought I'd test some acrylic lacquer on top of some acrylic sanding sealer, I've used acrylic sanding sealer on ABW loads of times but never finished with water based acrylic lacquer before, The pic shows how it reacted to the ABW :shock:

So it's back to my tried and tested method of using acrylic sanding sealer and three or four coats of danish oil. 8)

 

[Paul Chapman]

I would think it's more likely that the acrylic lacquer is reacting with the acrylic sanding sealer rather than the wood. The Danish oil won't react like that because it's not water based.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Lord Nibbo]

I would think it's more likely that the acrylic lacquer is reacting with the acrylic sanding sealer rather than the wood. The Danish oil won't react like that because it's not water based.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

I think your right Paul.

I've just checked what I tested, the sanding sealer is cellulose based the lacquer is acrylic. In the past just wiping glue off with a wet/damp rag made the ABW get black marks, so I guess its the water based acrylic lacquer thats the problem especially on ABW.

I wonder if Terry Smart is about?

 

[Lord Nibbo]

It's too late now :lol: the deed is done

Once upon a time it was part of the drawer fronts :lol:

Now the deed is done so no going back :?

Rebated all around the drawer fronts ready to take a holly or sycamore lipping.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Making a start on the chess board

Maple veneered mdf cut to 18" square.

American Black Walnut edging for the top that's been routed to shape ready for gluing to the mdf board.

Lipping the Drawer

The Sycamore board has been thicknessed to 20mm thick and in this pic I'm ripping strips of 6mm strips.

Next thing was to sand both sides of the strips sanding them to a final 4mm thick.

Then to round off the front edge I passed all the strips across part of an ogee cutter using just a tiny bit of the cutter blade. Just a little hand sanding needed to finish them off.

Finally with all the strips cut to length and the ends mitred I glued them in place one at a time to the drawer fronts using just glue, no pins.

I just need to wait a while, sand it down a fit the drawer.

 

[Imperial]

The devil is in the detail, lovely work LN. The cockbead can be replaced with just a string see below, just makes the drawer look a little more special IMO. Where did you get the Jet sander and what did it cost if you dont mind me asking?

 

[OPJ]

Where did you get the Jet sander and what did it cost if you dont mind me asking?

He got the sander off eBay - there's more info. on that here. :wink: