motownmartin
Established Member
This design looks tremendous, not sure if its practical though, I would be inclined to make it a little taller.
WIP Competition Entry "Chess Table" FINISHED
- Thread starter Lord Nibbo
- Start date
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MikeG.
Established Member
What on earth is 1'-7&15/16"s????
Surely you meant 507mm???
Ducking for cover.......
Mike
Surely you meant 507mm???
Ducking for cover.......
Mike
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
motownmartin":3q6xy795 said:
Well the size of the squares are 2" which is the smallest allowed for match play size rules, this dictates the overall size of the top. I tried adding an apron around it but it made it too big for where it will eventually live and it upset the overall aesthetics. As already said it is going to be used as an occasional coffee table so at this height it's spot on.
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
Mike Garnham":30n6m0qm said:What on earth is 1'-7&15/16"s????
Surely you meant 507mm???
Ducking for cover.......
Mike
No need to duck for cover :lol: I find most people instantly know or can imagine how big 18" is, but to state 450ish mm is difficult to imagine or understand. Now the beauty of using sketchup is I will change it to mm to actually make it. :lol:
rkchapman
Established Member
Looks very nice. I'm not convinced of the practicality of a through drawer that can open either way for putting captured pieces in though - would a drawer each side be worth considering?
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
Well I got off my butt and made time to make a start before I run out of time to make it
So I sorted some wood from this piece on the bench
I cut two lengths off the plank and in this pic you can see I'm getting it ready to rip it down to get all the pieces needed for the whole table
These were the only two cuts I needed to make using the table saw at this stage, most of the other cuts will be made on the band saw.
First cut made on this piece, these two pieces will become four when sawn again and will eventually become the cabinet sides.
Nearly all the parts, just a few more pieces to rip out of the boards to the right in the pic
Most of the parts with one face and one edge planed flat and square, next job is to run them through the thicknesser to size them all. You might just see in this pic I've written all the finished sizes needed when they reach the thicknesser. Some of the thinner wider pieces will be sized using the table saw and cut slightly over size to allow a final planing to size.
So I sorted some wood from this piece on the bench
I cut two lengths off the plank and in this pic you can see I'm getting it ready to rip it down to get all the pieces needed for the whole table
These were the only two cuts I needed to make using the table saw at this stage, most of the other cuts will be made on the band saw.
First cut made on this piece, these two pieces will become four when sawn again and will eventually become the cabinet sides.
Nearly all the parts, just a few more pieces to rip out of the boards to the right in the pic
Most of the parts with one face and one edge planed flat and square, next job is to run them through the thicknesser to size them all. You might just see in this pic I've written all the finished sizes needed when they reach the thicknesser. Some of the thinner wider pieces will be sized using the table saw and cut slightly over size to allow a final planing to size.
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
Everything has been thicknessed and planed to final dimensions, except the four side pieces of the main cabinet two of which need the drawer fronts cut out. When that job is done the final width can be cut for all four pieces.
The real woodworking starts here.
I cut all the legs to length using a scrap piece of MDF as a backer.
With all the legs clamped together it's easy to mark them up exactly the same.
All marked up for where the taper will start.
Setting up the taper jig using the mitre slot as a guide
With the jig set it's easy to slide it all across to the blade ready to start cutting.
All four legs now have the tapers cut only on what will be the inside faces when assembled.
A final pass over the planer finishes the legs off. Next to do on the legs will be cutting the mortices.
All four pieces that will become the top edges of the chess table have had the curved part cut using two passes on the router table, here is the resulting pic after cleaning up with the vac.
The real woodworking starts here.
I cut all the legs to length using a scrap piece of MDF as a backer.
With all the legs clamped together it's easy to mark them up exactly the same.
All marked up for where the taper will start.
Setting up the taper jig using the mitre slot as a guide
With the jig set it's easy to slide it all across to the blade ready to start cutting.
All four legs now have the tapers cut only on what will be the inside faces when assembled.
A final pass over the planer finishes the legs off. Next to do on the legs will be cutting the mortices.
All four pieces that will become the top edges of the chess table have had the curved part cut using two passes on the router table, here is the resulting pic after cleaning up with the vac.
OPJ
Established Member
LOL - Is that featherboard made from American Black Walnut as well???
Looking good, keep the progress coming!
Looking good, keep the progress coming!
devonwoody
Established Member
Looks a good project. April first post, work commenced August, you've been sailing again.
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
OPJ":15z7kzji said:LOL - Is that featherboard made from American Black Walnut as well???
No it's a scrap bit of iroko
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
devonwoody":1a6tidwn said:Looks a good project. April first post, work commenced August, you've been sailing again.
Sailing! :shock: What in this weather you must be joking, You may have it sunny in Devon but in Cornwall the weathers rubbish again just like last year
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
Cutting the shoulders on all eight rails starts here.
After cutting the shoulders the next step was cutting off the wider cheeks on all the rails.
The upper rails radius cut tight to the line freehand on the bandsaw and the remaining small cheeks of the tenons were also removed on all the rails here.
All the radius cuts were sanded down to the marking line.
Nearly ready for a dry fit, just needs the tenons cleaning up with a block plane and a good sanding and the base is ready for glue up
After cutting the shoulders the next step was cutting off the wider cheeks on all the rails.
The upper rails radius cut tight to the line freehand on the bandsaw and the remaining small cheeks of the tenons were also removed on all the rails here.
All the radius cuts were sanded down to the marking line.
Nearly ready for a dry fit, just needs the tenons cleaning up with a block plane and a good sanding and the base is ready for glue up
Chems
Established Member
I do love a LN build thread they are my favorite!
big soft moose
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I'm impressed by that freehand cut - i always wind up having to tack a bit of scrap wood to the waste and use a pivot jig to get anywhere near a perfect circle.
TheTiddles
Established Member
Is that the Axminster wood rack on the wall? If so, what spacing do you have them at?
Aidan
Aidan
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
TheTiddles":p0ttwzxd said:
I think I got them from Rutlands, it was a long time back and I can't remember :?
They are about 3ft centres.
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
Well after two days out because of my back I eventually got to assemble the base this morning.
Marking the tenons to cut a mitre on the ends of all the rails. I've also sanded everything ready for glue up.
Cutting the mitres on all the rails.
Starting the glue up, the third clamp is just to make sure everything is level, one side glued up, the other just dry fitted.
Glue up and assembly done, I prefer to do the assembly on my table saw top to make sure there is no wind from one side to the other, of course it makes it 100% sure all the legs are level
Marking the tenons to cut a mitre on the ends of all the rails. I've also sanded everything ready for glue up.
Cutting the mitres on all the rails.
Starting the glue up, the third clamp is just to make sure everything is level, one side glued up, the other just dry fitted.
Glue up and assembly done, I prefer to do the assembly on my table saw top to make sure there is no wind from one side to the other, of course it makes it 100% sure all the legs are level
Chems
Established Member
Looking very good of course, such speed of building as well.
What do you think of your table saw, is it the 10¨ version as I'm thinking of buying on in the next few months. Is it quite in use?
What do you think of your table saw, is it the 10¨ version as I'm thinking of buying on in the next few months. Is it quite in use?
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
Chems":1i9gnrav said:
Yes it's the 10".... How quiet? About the same as my Trend T11 Router!
maybe a little quieter.Lord Nibbo
Established Member
Cutting the two drawer fronts.
Yes cutting two fronts for one drawer for the upper part of the table. The fronts were all sized and sanded along with the two sides before cutting.
Glue up of two fronts finished. Just after this pic I also cut the fronts and sides to length, cutting the mitres on my compound mitre saw.
I would have carried on today but we got family visiting so I got forced out of the workshop to go sight seeing..... ](*,)
Yes cutting two fronts for one drawer
for the upper part of the table. The fronts were all sized and sanded along with the two sides before cutting.
Glue up of two fronts finished. Just after this pic I also cut the fronts and sides to length, cutting the mitres on my compound mitre saw.
I would have carried on today but we got family visiting so I got forced out of the workshop to go sight seeing.....
](*,)Similar threads
