What size tube do I need for 3/64" Brass rod?

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Doris

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As the question says above.

I've been using this size rod for a while and now need a brass tube that's a close fit that I can then solder in place on the rod. I tend not to work in imperial measurements and the metric size given is 1.19mm which makes things more tricky. Also the sizes given online seem to be outside diameter usually.

I would usually go to a model shop and just compare but all the K & S packets are sealed up.

Can anyone help please? I don't mind it being a bit loose to allow for some solder to run through
 
If you can find out the wall thickness of the tube, you can use that in combination with the outside diameter to calculate the inside diameter.

For instance, this listing says 0.2mm wall, so you would need 1.6mm OD to achieve 1.2mm ID.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156174785747

Thank you! That link you posted also lists the inside diameters of the tubing which makes things much simpler. I must have been looking at the wrong listings elsewhere as they all said the outside diameter.
 
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What are you making we're intrigued!!

I'm not really sure how to label this one, I suppose kinetic sculpture maybe. It works off of an old barometer mechanism I found at a boot fayre this year. The boat rotates with the changes in pressure and the pointer protruding from the bow will point towards a brass plate on a wooden base (both of which are missing in the photo I've put up here as it's not finished). It's been working perfectly well with all the changes in weather we have been having lately.

The boat, figure etc I made. The boom was soldered together and a postage stamp sewn onto it with a fine gold thread.

I need the tube for the end of the pointer so I can solder it in place.

IMG_20241023_151700646_HDR.jpg
IMG_20241023_151042331.jpg
 
Nice idea. How big is the pointer?

I only ask as another way of doing it would be to hammer the end of the rod flat, then file it to shape to make the pointer. You could make a nice arrow head, but probably no wider than about three times the width of the rod, depends if that would be big enough or whether you think that would fit in with the rest of it.

I like this sort of repurposing, clever and fun.

Please do give us some pictures when it's finished.
 
I'm not really sure how to label this one, I suppose kinetic sculpture maybe. It works off of an old barometer mechanism I found at a boot fayre this year. The boat rotates with the changes in pressure and the pointer protruding from the bow will point towards a brass plate on a wooden base (both of which are missing in the photo I've put up here as it's not finished). It's been working perfectly well with all the changes in weather we have been having lately.

The boat, figure etc I made. The boom was soldered together and a postage stamp sewn onto it with a fine gold thread.

I need the tube for the end of the pointer so I can solder it in place.

View attachment 194520View attachment 194521
I used to just a tight fit rod and tube for rudders on model sailing boats.
 
Very nice Doris, I love work like this, my thing is - (will be) Automata built into pictures, turn the handle and parts of the picture move. Using the barometer was a good idea.
 
That link you posted also lists the inside diameters of the tubing...

Please, I hope you saw that the seller is in China and the item would be shipped from there if you bought it.

Another way that the wall thickness of tube is described is by SWG (standard wire gauge). If you can find something described in that manner, you can use a look up table relating SWG to real measurements to work out the bore.
 
If you can modify the design of whatever it is then using metric rod etc is often cheaper and easier to find than imperial sizes.

Noted 👍

Nice idea. How big is the pointer?

I only ask as another way of doing it would be to hammer the end of the rod flat, then file it to shape to make the pointer. You could make a nice arrow head, but probably no wider than about three times the width of the rod, depends if that would be big enough or whether you think that would fit in with the rest of it.

I like this sort of repurposing, clever and fun.

Please do give us some pictures when it's finished.

The size of the pointer is yet to be determined, but likely to be 10mm wide at the base of the arrow.

@Doris - check out Albion Alloys - they do a huge range of small bore tubes and are not too expensive for hobby quantities

Thank you. Will do 👍


Out of interest why the tube, can you not just solder the pointer straight onto the rod?
I'm intrigued :)

I have a belt and braces attitude with this kind of work. People say "oh that looks so delicate" when really everything is over engineered at times to withstand knocks and drops. I could just butt solder a pointer on but wouldn't be as strong as a tube slipped into the end of the rod and the brass sheet then wrapped around that.


I used to just a tight fit rod and tube for rudders on model sailing boats.

My late father did also. In the future having some stock of this tube I may use for moving parts but who knows what's round the corner.

Very nice Doris, I love work like this, my thing is - (will be) Automata built into pictures, turn the handle and parts of the picture move. Using the barometer was a good idea.

Thank you! I would like to create automatas too however I am reusing mechanisms that already exist to begin with. The one below is a good example of previous completed work.

IMG_20231222_082955106.jpg


Please, I hope you saw that the seller is in China and the item would be shipped from there if you bought it.

Another way that the wall thickness of tube is described is by SWG (standard wire gauge). If you can find something described in that manner, you can use a look up table relating SWG to real measurements to work out the bore.

I did spot it was from China after I posted my reply. I tend not to buy from eBay anymore and throw my net wider across the internet to find some independent online model shop instead. From my experience things that say they are sold in on eBay seem to show up with a Chinese label on them. Not had this issue with online model shops in the UK yet.
 
@Doris said “Thank you! I would like to create automatas too however I am reusing mechanisms that already exist to begin with. The one below is a good example of previous completed work. “
I really like that, another good use of a mechanism. I am a simple soul though and will refrain from using other men’s made bits lol.
Half the fun at the moment is thinking of the “tableau” the first was a Victorian seafront view from the sea with waves going up and down donkeys moving along the beach a Ferris wheel on the seafront going round and scantily dressed people moving in the windows of the buildings, complete with the sky backdrop of sun an aeroplane,hot air ballon plus of course KingKong! All on a painted scenery that wound across as the handle was turned. Almost finished it when everything stopped for my emigration. It’s all going to be a time filling hobby for when I get old (older) now.
Ian
 
I use K S telescopic tubing ( where one size forms a close sliding fit to the one above ) . Being imperial, their run begins at1/16" o/d ( 4/64") and goes up in 1/32" increments to form their whole range, so the wall thickness is1/64".

Your size 3/64" would require their tube be 5/64" o/d to able to form a telescopic fit. The closest one of theirs that would slip over your rod with a small bit ( 1/64") of play, is 3/32" o/d.
 

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