What ideas have you had for reducing Electricity consumption

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They are more efficient, apparently, because they only heat the pan and not the surrounding area. I wouldn't even go back to gas, they're brilliant.
Well we finaly took the plunge yesterday we decided to buy a 15 -1 Ninja wifey spent a good hour on tinternet every where sold out one place sold 100 in the last week , We agreed we were not spending more than the average price of £250 . Some places wanted £500 plus but average price was aout £250 to£280 so after about an hour wifey came to me with the question "how much was i willing to pay tops " "£250 we agreed i said " " well i got us one for £185 so i bought a sleeveless jacket too for £30 " still a bargain but dosnt come till 23 rd Nov ( jacket comes tomorrow) but shes a good en. Will keep you posted on our experiance
 
Our 15 in 1 has really saved electricity because we don't use our oven as much, the Ninja does the majority of this and faster so the oven only see's occasional use. Bread in the Ninja is also easy and there are some good books out there, just get one that uses UK measurements as a load use american ones.
 
We've just put the oven on for a fair sized roast, the third time since May.

Bread is easy. Knead and prove as usual, knock back and put it in the basket (on circle of parchment - don't be tempted to do without, the bread will seep through the holes). I left the basket out for the dough to rise when the weather was warmer, but the Foodi uses so little power on "prove" it really isn't worth the trouble. Put it in for 50 mins at 35°. I steam bake for 25 mins at 185°. Works for me.
 
Bread is easy. Knead and prove as usual,
We make the dough and prove in fridge overnight, next morning knock it back and then next prove in Ninja before cooking as usual and also add a small quantity of other flour to the white such as emma, spelt or wholemeal to add flavour.
 
Emmer. I do the same with rye. I go the other way around - second proving overnight in the fridge then straight in the Foodi to bake in the morning, so I have fresh bread in time to do my wife's lunch.
 
Even though the new Induction hob has the same power rating, it cooks/boils everything much quicker, must be a saving there?
We got one about two months ago, as you say it is so quick, an inch of water will boil within seconds. Simmering is a breeze as well as it is far easier to control.
And all through a 13amp fuse.
 
If the door is shut the oven will release its heat slowly.

The benefit would be in heating the house rather than the kitchen. If you raise the temperature in the kitchen more of the heat will spread especially if you have the door open if not open plan. If you are going to close the kitchen door and not go in there much again you want the heat out of the oven into the kitchen and out the door.

Slower release and there will be less spread. If you are open plan I would assume that this would be better. You do not want to warm up to above room temperature then feel cold when it falls back. Better slow release back ground heat.

I
The oven will cool down quicker if the door is open and the fan stop working thus saving electricity
 
@Fergie 307 I have been doing this for 20 years since boiler was new. After it was installed I was perplexed to realise there was no way of stopping the DHW temperature being maintained throughout the night. It was just a waste of energy.
The boiler is due to be replaced in a few days because the DHW heat exchanger is furred up causing fluctuating output temperature. It will be interesting to see if the new condensing boiler has a DHW timer.
Brian
Im not a fan of new boilers feeling that the newer they get the more complex and unreliable they become, perhaps unsupported prejudice on my part but there you are, your post caught my eye because my son had an older combi boiler with very poor hot water performance, his gas fitter mate was all for installing a new boiler as the only cure. I removed the DHW heat exchanger, just a little copper can with a coil inside and cleaned it with kettle descaler with amazeingly good results, so much so that 3 yrs later he sold the property with the old boiler still running fine.
 
Im not a fan of new boilers feeling that the newer they get the more complex and unreliable they become, perhaps unsupported prejudice on my part but there you are, your post caught my eye because my son had an older combi boiler with very poor hot water performance, his gas fitter mate was all for installing a new boiler as the only cure. I removed the DHW heat exchanger, just a little copper can with a coil inside and cleaned it with kettle descaler with amazeingly good results, so much so that 3 yrs later he sold the property with the old boiler still running fine.
I've done to that a couple of times. It's borderline territory re. gas/non gas, as far as I understand.
 
Im not a fan of new boilers feeling that the newer they get the more complex and unreliable they become, perhaps unsupported prejudice on my part but there you are,
They are certainly nothing like the old baxi's with the gas pilot light and piezo ignitor but weighting a great deal and would run for decades without issues. The way to reduce the issues with complexity is to avoid combi boilers, just a cheap option that seems to be in fashion at the moment. Fit a normal boiler as part of a sealed system with unvented H/W cylinder, Honeywell zone valves and Grunfoss inteligent pump paying attention to the bypass needed for pump over run and it is as good as you can get.
 
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