I wonder if that's true - after all, they're not sealed, are they, and the pressure should find the gaps?
Not unless your doors have been made airtight which is very unlikely, the 1/2" gap at the bottom is enough.
By whose accounts? Many problems are found by people being paid good money to find said problems.
Mine was a small circuit board with a microcontroller on it, that I'd designed for a client. I repurposed it to turn the shower pump off after a preset time, but gave a pulsed warning before the end of cycle, the idea stolen from my electric toothbrush. It didn't turn the water off, just the pump, but the water pressure was rubbish, so it served its purpose. That was over 20 years ago, and although I tried to explain that if one of them emptied the hot water tank there'd be no more for an hour or so, my teenage stepdaughters thought I was evil.
True. I have to find some solution, the mould in one or two places is quite distressing...
After taking that temperature measurement yesterday I put the lid back on the hay box and left it overnight. I measured again this morning, 13 hours after starting the test. The temperature was 71 Celsius, so not much different 10 hours after the first measurement. I should have taken the temperature of the water at the start of the test; my guess is that it was well below boiling point. I will make a stew in it today.
A cleverer man would just control the heating element!
Many ***** i mean New builds are just that ***** many are already having major issues and not been up long with gaps/cracks/poor construction failures that allow water in and warm air out along with undesirables joining residence!
My house is a 1900 farmhouse and the loft is decked, so I am slowly installing insulation board under the lime plaster then plasterboarding with 10cm screws to the old joists. Some rooms are ornately decorated with coving so I am stepping away from the coving to add the the decor, leaving me the edges of the room to insulate in the loft.
Oh Mr Pascoe you little influencer you. I know you weren't " gifted it" . bought with your"own money"
I think he did it as a lesson to his kids not as a permanent fix, and shutting the power of to an electric shower element is a way to control the heating element albeit a bit harsh.
If it's an electric shower, then you might need a 32 amp switch. The run of the mill WiFi controlled devices seem to be available as 16 amp or lower. I'm sure there are bigger ones, but probably fairly expensive.
Just use a 5amp wifi one to control a contactor coil, sky's the limit switching Amps wise then
