What Glues am I missing?

[ColeyS1]

Stixall (clear) is as good as ct1 and less than half the price.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

 

[Trevanion]

According to this chap, pink grip did a better job

He put WAAAY too much adhesive on the bricks, It really only needs a little to stick well! If you put too much on you're basically making a sloppy thick barrier between the two surfaces and of course it's going to slip. The pink grip did surprise me but it is a great and cheap product for sticking stuff like architraves, skirting boards and other internal work, I personally wouldn't use it externally. The CT1 is costly but there aren't many sealants you can apply in the rain or even underwater (and in the sea) and have it set off in no time at all, It really is a bombproof solution for a lot of things.

my hammer drill just broke, wonder if contact adhesive like CT1 could support a large shelf, wooden shelf brackets glued on bare concrete?

I would really recommend some kind of mechanical fixing, I don't think the CT1 or any other sealant could hold a large shelf for an extended period of time under load.


Although I'm a cheapskate and I never buy CT1 :lol: As Coley said, it's either Stixall or Fixall for the kind of work I do, I'm not trying to glue together a pier in the sea!

 

[johnnyb]

my take on ct1 is its a hybrid silicone they do vary a bit in viscosity and cure time but apart from that can be considered the same. ie stixall clear is low viscosity...thin. screwfix sell a really high viscosity one. sticks like **** turbo ultra is really fast setting.

 

[johnnyb]

gripfill pinkgrip solvented are rubber based and really thick in winter but set bullit. the water based construction glues can all be lumped together as well and have the advantage of being thin and white.

 

[Bm101]

Yeh, an old mate of mine was a plumber (quite old school, he knew his stuff about lead at least) he recommended using mastic warm (after been on a rad etc). I've heard similar from window fitters/finishers on big industrial fitouts (think the gherkin type building sites). Desperately trying to find a warm spot on a cold site. Not sure why but those building sites often seem colder inside the frame than outside. Maybe the concrete acts a heatsink? Brrr.
Anyway. Back on track.

 

[Trevanion]

On a particularly cold winter days (no workshop heating )I sometimes will pop the PU glue in the microwave for 10 seconds, makes a huge difference to the viscosity and doesn’t seem to bother the glue at all. Not sure if it’s a good idea to cook in the micro right after though!

 

[The_Wood_Basher]

Wow Ive never had that problem but there are times when runny glue is better so ill keep that in mind. And no, I wouldnt be eating anything out of that microwave after that.

 

[Trevanion]

Wow Ive never had that problem but there are times when runny glue is better so ill keep that in mind. And no, I wouldnt be eating anything out of that microwave after that.

Your workshop probably doesn't drop below -5C then! Men are harder in the west :lol:

 

[The_Wood_Basher]

Wow no.... never been that cold! lowest is probably 10°c

 

[Inspector]

Try -50C. :shock: The dogs hate going out to do their business. I'm not so happy going with them in case a coyote is hanging around.

This past winter I went outside in -20C to -25C to do some sanding with the air powered random orbit sander. The air running through the hose coiled behind me got cold enough to thicken the oil in the sander to stall it out. Inside the shop is kept a nice warm 19C where the glue is happy.

Oh and water works well as a temporary glue when it is that cold. Comes apart when you bring it in or when spring comes. So add water to your glue list.

Pete

 

[The_Wood_Basher]

Oh and water works well as a temporary glue when it is that cold. Comes apart when you bring it in or when spring comes. So add water to your glue list.

LOL I bet! That would really get into the pores of the wood!