Mike160304
Established Member
Interesting mini-bodging project here, my 14-year old "Aviary" (see video attached) - the fruit box was rotting, twisting, sagging, and trying hard to fall apart.
With temporary 6 Screws and 3 lengths of old cotton string, I have de-sagged and de-twisted it (photo) and it awaits delivery of a 290ml cartridge of a thoroughly modern "Grab Adhesive" - ProTrade Maxitek Sumogrip Original Adhesive & Sealant,
but the BLACK variation of Sumogrip, cos splodges of white glue everywhere . . . I would have to paint them all matt black, and the only matt black paint I have is solvent-based, and thoroughly modern bla-bla-bla-blah is dissolved by solvented paint, as I discovered the hard way, using Everbuild Stixall about 7 years ago.
Anyway, this new indoor/outdoor, UV-proof Bodge Special Sumogrip is claimed to do almost everything much better than Stixall . . . . . . .
So why would I not follow my usual favourite habit and dribble or spatulate "MAS Dolphin A " boatbuilding epoxy mix into all the gaps and joints?
Firstly, because the fruit box is too chaotic to efficiently "encapsulate" everything in Epoxy and within 2 years outdoors the Epoxy would be cracking up, being rigid, whereas the wood is going all over the place.
Secondly, because I do not want the "varnish" look.
Thirdly, because I want to know what Sumogrip REALLY does. I have taken in the honest advice of Protrade that Sumogrip is best used in blobs and "short beads", with air in between, so that the Sumogrip reacts with the moisture in the air to achieve full through-cure, = it does not through-cure readily if it is in the middle of a thick wodge of Sumogrip. Whereas Epoxy of course has "internal curing" and does not need moist air.
It is significant that Protrade describe the setting time of Sumogrip in millimetres of thickness, e.g. 2 to 3mm per 24 hours . . . .
So, they all shouted, "Why the **** do you not simply buy a new old fruit box???" . . . Yeah, good question, that!
Anyway, the black Sumogrip arrives tomorrow, so the excitement is building . . . . .
Best regards to all,
Mike
With temporary 6 Screws and 3 lengths of old cotton string, I have de-sagged and de-twisted it (photo) and it awaits delivery of a 290ml cartridge of a thoroughly modern "Grab Adhesive" - ProTrade Maxitek Sumogrip Original Adhesive & Sealant,
but the BLACK variation of Sumogrip, cos splodges of white glue everywhere . . . I would have to paint them all matt black, and the only matt black paint I have is solvent-based, and thoroughly modern bla-bla-bla-blah is dissolved by solvented paint, as I discovered the hard way, using Everbuild Stixall about 7 years ago.
Anyway, this new indoor/outdoor, UV-proof Bodge Special Sumogrip is claimed to do almost everything much better than Stixall . . . . . . .
So why would I not follow my usual favourite habit and dribble or spatulate "MAS Dolphin A " boatbuilding epoxy mix into all the gaps and joints?
Firstly, because the fruit box is too chaotic to efficiently "encapsulate" everything in Epoxy and within 2 years outdoors the Epoxy would be cracking up, being rigid, whereas the wood is going all over the place.
Secondly, because I do not want the "varnish" look.
Thirdly, because I want to know what Sumogrip REALLY does. I have taken in the honest advice of Protrade that Sumogrip is best used in blobs and "short beads", with air in between, so that the Sumogrip reacts with the moisture in the air to achieve full through-cure, = it does not through-cure readily if it is in the middle of a thick wodge of Sumogrip. Whereas Epoxy of course has "internal curing" and does not need moist air.
It is significant that Protrade describe the setting time of Sumogrip in millimetres of thickness, e.g. 2 to 3mm per 24 hours . . . .
So, they all shouted, "Why the **** do you not simply buy a new old fruit box???" . . . Yeah, good question, that!
Anyway, the black Sumogrip arrives tomorrow, so the excitement is building . . . . .
Best regards to all,
Mike
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