Welding Rods
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Also a more linear power adjustment curve, a more easily maintained arc and usually an 'anti-stick' feature to help you not stick the rod to the job.novocaine":2cvrnjly said:
just ordered the Aldi one as a backup in case my R-Tech decides not to work one day.
Thanks. Can see the weight and easy start advantages, but duty cycle? According to the box, the Aldi one will do 15% at full power. No idea what the Oxford will do, but I've never beaten it yet! And it will certainly outlast me, so no case for change! Must find something else to spend kids inheritance on.novocaine":141s7odt said:
I wouldn't give those cheapo things a second glance myself unless I was expecting to not weld more than a single 5kg packet for the rest of my life.
I started out with an old single phase transformer form the 80s, still works and welds fine, lacks fancy functions though and single phase rectification is not as nice as 3 phase, my dad has it now. Then I got a 300a TIG and stick machine very cheaply, both machines were Kemppi which is quality stuff. This one is built like a tank.
I started out with an old single phase transformer form the 80s, still works and welds fine, lacks fancy functions though and single phase rectification is not as nice as 3 phase, my dad has it now. Then I got a 300a TIG and stick machine very cheaply, both machines were Kemppi which is quality stuff. This one is built like a tank.
Eric The Viking
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I have never stick welded but I found the weld quality improved a lot when I put a 16A plug on my 120 A MIG set. I think it improved the ability of the machine to keep a stable arc, although apparently it comes into the "quite reasonable" category of machine (according to friends who have tried it).
It came to me with an ordinary 13A plug, and those are notorious for poor connection. 16A plugs are a lot better, and have no fuse fitted as a bonus. If you can't do that (16A back to the consumer unit), use heavy gauge cables, to minimise voltage drop when you strike the arc.
It came to me with an ordinary 13A plug, and those are notorious for poor connection. 16A plugs are a lot better, and have no fuse fitted as a bonus. If you can't do that (16A back to the consumer unit), use heavy gauge cables, to minimise voltage drop when you strike the arc.
I have one of these...
I probably use it once every couple of years to blast a 'farm quality' weld onto something. I wish I could do it properly though.
Note: 'farm quality' does no imply any resemblance of quality.
I probably use it once every couple of years to blast a 'farm quality' weld onto something. I wish I could do it properly though.
Note: 'farm quality' does no imply any resemblance of quality.
novocaine
Established Member
dickm":17nph2mb said:
wow thats crap, no cooling in there then.
novocaine
Established Member
DennisCA":1cenf800 said:
at 15% duty cycle it'll take you a lifetime to burn through 5kg.
my big MIG is a Kemppi, it was 4th hand when we got it, still going strong now, serious industrial grade machine, needs a bit more umph than a 13 amp though, it trips the breaker on a routine basis, I'll be running a new line out of the consumer box next year for it.
heimlaga
Established Member
Dennis has a good point.
I have notised that there are plenty of hobbyists who are led to believe that they are unable to learn to weld properly just becuause they don't have proper equipment. I have also notised that many of them go through so many cheap welders in a lifetime that they end up spending more money than if they had bough one decent welder.
I think that Aldi is wasted money. 15% duty cykle using 3,2mm rods essentially means that 2,5 mm are the thickest rods it can use. Practically speaking it is a 110 ampere welder sold under false pretentions. That makes me wonder what else is false and how long it will last.
You can easily get a good secondhand welder for that money and after a few repairs it will likely last a lifetime in hobby use.
I bought a 1960-ies Unitor 180 ampere three phase DC rectifyer at an auction. I had to put new cables on it. I think I spent some 200 euros in total on purchase and refurbishment. Then it worked perfectly for roundabout 8 years. Then it broke down but after some repair costing just under 200 euros it runs again. I had to make my own spare parts but as it is old the parts aren't too complicated.
I am pretty confident there is several decades of hobby use left in it and just in case it ever breaks down I recently paid 50 euros for another similar welder.
By the way OK 48 or P48 or 1718 or whatever different manufacturers call them are the proper rods for most welding jobs.
Lot's of amateurs buy sour or rutile rods because they are easier to start but using those rods there isn't much of a likelyhood to ever produce good welds. Again a case where inferrior materials lead people to believe that they cannot learn.
I have notised that there are plenty of hobbyists who are led to believe that they are unable to learn to weld properly just becuause they don't have proper equipment. I have also notised that many of them go through so many cheap welders in a lifetime that they end up spending more money than if they had bough one decent welder.
I think that Aldi is wasted money. 15% duty cykle using 3,2mm rods essentially means that 2,5 mm are the thickest rods it can use. Practically speaking it is a 110 ampere welder sold under false pretentions. That makes me wonder what else is false and how long it will last.
You can easily get a good secondhand welder for that money and after a few repairs it will likely last a lifetime in hobby use.
I bought a 1960-ies Unitor 180 ampere three phase DC rectifyer at an auction. I had to put new cables on it. I think I spent some 200 euros in total on purchase and refurbishment. Then it worked perfectly for roundabout 8 years. Then it broke down but after some repair costing just under 200 euros it runs again. I had to make my own spare parts but as it is old the parts aren't too complicated.
I am pretty confident there is several decades of hobby use left in it and just in case it ever breaks down I recently paid 50 euros for another similar welder.
By the way OK 48 or P48 or 1718 or whatever different manufacturers call them are the proper rods for most welding jobs.
Lot's of amateurs buy sour or rutile rods because they are easier to start but using those rods there isn't much of a likelyhood to ever produce good welds. Again a case where inferrior materials lead people to believe that they cannot learn.
Which, of course, is exactly what the Oxford is - a tank half-full of oil with some thick copper wire in it!DennisCA":198jtmab said:
