Veritas marking gauge looses its setting

[mudman]

Let's be very clear about this - it offered the simplest solution to a simple problem.

I will answer questions as I see fit. I have had experience of modern tools including a metal marking gauge which had similar problems and was unpleasant to use for long - I've had to spend many hours marking up.

People should concentrate on the message, right or wrong, rather than insulting the messenger, which just lowers the tone.

If the OP's post had been along the lines of "I want to buy a marking gauge and have been looking at the Veritas, what do people think?" Then your answer would have been relevant. Instead, as Mike said above you came wading in with your usual line of "Don't waste your time", and then instructed the OP to move to the more traditional equipment. He already has the Veritas, now he wants to know why it loses its setting. This is most likely a production defect as Veritas tools are some of the best around, but either way, your response was, as usual, a preachy pontification that doesn't address the real problem and is clearly designed to create an argument.

Answering questions "as you see fit" usually involves you climbing into the pulpit of "trad" woodworking and delivering a sermon to the congregation on how they should live their woodworking lives and espouse the benefits of the old ways and to avoid the evils of modern thinking. Usually with no relevance to what has been asked just taking any opportunity to preach "Jacob's Way".

There was nothing insulting in Mike's post, you are just displaying the current trend of being offended by anyone that stands up and takes an opposing stance and then to point a finger and scream some words ending in 'phobic'. I'm actually quite surprised at how much slack you are given and how you are allowed to continue like this. I am sure there are many members of this forum that don't engage and leave.

Anyway, I find it all very tiresome so I'm going to put you on ignore from now on and I suggest everyone else should do the same.

 

[mudman]

Nothing wrong with trying new stuff, I've done it myself often. But there's a strong tendency to denigrate the older stuff.
This can be a mistake as much of it is in fact very well designed and developed e.g. normal woody marking gauges, clumsy though they may look.
The Veritas offerings look neat, are heavily promoted, are expensive, but simply don't work as well in my experience. They don't even attempt a mortice gauge - the "Dual" gauge being the nearest thing, but inadequate, as explained by Derek earlier.

But before you go on ignore, I'd like to ask just what experience you have of Veritas products? They are excellent, well designed products with high production values. I do not believe that you have any personal experience of any of them.

 

[Jacob]

...

Anyway, I find it all very tiresome so I'm going to put you on ignore from now on and I suggest everyone else should do the same.

Yes, please do!

 

[Trafalgar]

The problem with these kinds of threads is the reflexive defense of some particular brand, when the problem exists across any brand because of the design, materials and components used. If you get a little oily sweat on one of these gauge's rods, double check your mark and distance. If you keep everything in a French-fitted case and wear surgical gloves and mask and wash your hands like Lady Macbeth while woodworking, feel free to ignore.

Wood absorbs sweat and oil and only gets better because of it.

99% of the tools you will hold when you are working wood have you holding on to wood. These cruddy gauges are part of the other 1%.

 

[worker]

I am sure there are many members of this forum that don't engage and leave.

Frankly I refer Reddit to this forum. The endless and pointless arguing is very off putting.

 

[Blackswanwood]

The problem with these kinds of threads is the reflexive defense of some particular brand, when the problem exists across any brand because of the design, materials and components used. If you get a little oily sweat on one of these gauge's rods, double check your mark and distance. If you keep everything in a French-fitted case and wear surgical gloves and mask and wash your hands like Lady Macbeth while woodworking, feel free to ignore.

Wood absorbs sweat and oil and only gets better because of it.

99% of the tools you will hold when you are working wood have you holding on to wood. These cruddy gauges are part of the other 1%.

I think the problem is more that some people simply feel there is a need for them to be right and anyone with a different view to be wrong.

There’s nothing wrong with either type of gauge - it’s down to personal preference.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

It’s down to personal preference? That's anathema to some people.

 

[Trafalgar]

I think the problem is more that some people simply feel there is a need for them to be right and anyone with a different view to be wrong.

There’s nothing wrong with either type of gauge - it’s down to personal preference.

As I said in an earlier post, the number of participants in the thread who don't realize how devastating a slipping gauge is pretty much astounds me.

None of this is about Veritas, per se. The OP put the brand in the title, not me.

And I'll leave it at that.

 

[Inspector]

The problem with putting Jacob on ignore is that he is a prolific poster so pretty much every thread you open will be shot full of holes rendering it useless and nonsensical.

Pete

 

[Jacob]

The problem with putting Jacob on ignore is that he is a prolific poster so pretty much every thread you open will be shot full of holes rendering it useless and nonsensical.

Pete

Surely they'd be better without my nonsense!
How do people get on with the Veritas mortice gauge?

 

[Ttrees]

Tis good that the posts get bumped up though.
Not got round to finding some tubing and cutting some leather bungs,
I did spend 30 seconds looking at it though, since it was lying around..
and noted there was a reduction of the screw on the end, I guess maybe 2mm.

I'm questioning if it would be enough to sink through the leather seeing as it's about the thickness of a pencil lead.
Still got a coal bags worth of various types of leather to try, so it'll be interesting to see whether I can
improve it.

I suggest to those who've not tried moving theirs, not to I suppose,
Mine moved just like any other type of gauge with enough force, very sturdy...
but as mentioned, the real test is when oil/sweat/graphite/you name it, is included
whilst testing. so no point in marring something for no reason....
and no point in risking a deep scuff where you'd most use the tool,
test on the end of the stem instead.

Tom

 

[Jacob]

Tis good that the posts get bumped up though.
Not got round to finding some tubing and cutting some leather bungs,
I did spend 30 seconds looking at it though, since it was lying around..
and noted there was a reduction of the screw on the end, I guess maybe 2mm.

I'm questioning if it would be enough to sink through the leather seeing as it's about the thickness of a pencil lead.
Still got a coal bags worth of various types of leather to try, so it'll be interesting to see whether I can
improve it.

I suggest to those who've not tried moving theirs, not to I suppose,
Mine moved just like any other type of gauge with enough force, very sturdy...
but as mentioned, the real test is when oil/sweat/graphite/you name it, is included
whilst testing. so no point in marring something for no reason....
and no point in risking a deep scuff where you'd most use the tool,
test on the end of the stem instead.

Tom

What it really needs is a steel "saddle" cut to sit on the bar, with the fixing screw bearing on the flat side. Probably not leave enough thread on the brass screw though, which would be better in steel and larger diameter.
In fact a redesign. The Marples style slotted screw would be better as it allows a larger diameter without a wing-nut or knurled knob in the way, would transmit more force and avoid the risk of stripping a brass thread.

 

[Ttrees]

The screw doesn't seem the problem to me, well not for this particular hollow stem gauge,
and seems to provided plenty of force.
You're gib sounds more difficult of a fix than what I theoretically mentioned i.e drilled out for thin tubing, and regardless of the screw, would be worth testing with, it could be a massive improvement, but I don't believe I've seen either take on that yet.
The problem could still occur, or be infact worsened with another separate component.

In that sense, I gotta have a mess about with the cheapo Titemark like one also...
Well it's got dual locking screws, and uses very similar micro adjust the same, as does Veritas,
but it's a bit different to be fair, and I'd love to see one made to better tolerances,
as it's got some slop by comparison, but yet seemingly no give in it whatsoever,
you could prop something on it, but then again that could be down to grease.

Tom

 

[Tony Zaffuto]

Would be much more fun to search out opinions about current crop of YouTube content creators and/or other self proclaimed ww’ing experts.

 

[Trafalgar]

This thread would have had about three responses if the question had been generically asked of those type gauges rather than mentioning "Veritas."

There's brand loyalty in marketing, then there are whack-job woodworkers ready to throw hands if somebody denigrates their favorite brand of tools. And they see everything as some sort of slight.

Damnedest thing I've ever seen. A consumer psychologist would have a field day.

 

[Jacob]

Would be much more fun to search out opinions about current crop of YouTube content creators and/or other self proclaimed ww’ing experts.

Hmm is this a trap?
Google YouTube "using a marking gauge" and you get first off vids from an appalling berk who talks far too long about the "correct" method, not worth watching, but scroll on and it gets more interesting
Here's an interesting old geezer:


his hands a bit shaky though.
All good stuff except his hinge gauge is a bit OTT. Same mistake as the "Dual gauge" concept. I'd just use two ordinary pin gauges.

I was taught to push a marking gauge away from me, rather than pulling it, which a lot seem to do. Pushing is firmer and stops it from wandering. Holding on bench hooks etc. Bench hooks are what people used before they invented the turbo torsion box, multi functional bench table of a thousand dogs.

 

[Trafalgar]

Vascular dementia comes to mind. Viscious.

 

[Tony Zaffuto]

Hmm is this a trap?
Google YouTube "using a marking gauge" and you get first off vids from an appalling berk who talks far too long about the "correct" method, not worth watching, but scroll on and it gets more interesting
Here's an interesting old geezer:


his hands a bit shaky though.
All good stuff except his hinge gauge is a bit OTT. Same mistake as the "Dual gauge" concept. I'd just use two ordinary pin gauges.

I was taught to push a marking gauge away from me, rather than pulling it, which a lot seem to do. Pushing is firmer and stops it from wandering. Holding on bench hooks etc. Bench hooks were what people used before they invented the turbo torsion box, bench of a thousand dogs.

Graham Blackburn is in a tiny minority of actually having a career and being knowledgeable in woodworking! But he also speaks well of brands such as LN and LV.

I’m referring more about youngster self-proclaimed experts!

 

[Jacob]

...

I’m referring more about youngster self-proclaimed experts!

Life is too short!
Scrolling down and you get an offer of $12 for plans and templates for a DIY marking gauge. Cheaper just to buy a new one, either copy it, or don't bother just use it until it's worn out 50 years hence.

 

[aet1]

Life is too short!
Scrolling down and you get an offer of $12 for plans and templates for a DIY marking gauge. Cheaper just to buy a new one, either copy it, or don't bother just use it until it's worn out.

If you are talking about wooden marking gauges, which we shouldn't be, I need to ask - how many generations of use before they wear out?