Using No 7 Jointer As A smoother?

[Tetsuaiga]

Can't see why not, its basically the same as a number 4 just longer and heavier.

Different blades can be a good idea, it's easier pushing a plane along very hard maple when the blade is narrow.

You sometimes also want different angles, high is harder work but wont tear out in figured wood so much.

 

[ED65]

This interests me, I understand paint and varnish needs a key but why oil or wax? As I understand it (in my very limited way), the key is for the paint, especially high gloss finishes and varnish to adhere to the surface albeit on a tiny scale. But why would you need a key for oil or wax? Wouldn't they work in a completely different way by penetrating the wood to some extent?

You're right to be skeptical Chris, the idea that all finishes need a keyed surface needs to go away. Certainly wax does not need any kind of macroscopic texture to grip to and it should be obvious that oil doesn't rely on surface texture at all as it soaks into the wood fibres, so this goes equally for any other penetrating finish.

As for film finishes, these are in effect all binder so they don't exactly lack for bonding ability. And the fact of the matter is that no matter how smooth we think we've gotten wood it still has tons of microtexture. While paint and possibly primer may indeed benefit from some sanding scratches to grip to, most finishes don't need them.

 

[pollys13]

This interests me, I understand paint and varnish needs a key but why oil or wax? As I understand it (in my very limited way), the key is for the paint, especially high gloss finishes and varnish to adhere to the surface albeit on a tiny scale. But why would you need a key for oil or wax? Wouldn't they work in a completely different way by penetrating the wood to some extent?

You're right to be skeptical Chris, the idea that all finishes need a keyed surface needs to go away. Certainly wax does not need any kind of macroscopic texture to grip to and it should be obvious that oil doesn't rely on surface texture at all as it soaks into the wood fibres, so this goes equally for any other penetrating finish.

As for film finishes, these are in effect all binder so they don't exactly lack for bonding ability. And the fact of the matter is that no matter how smooth we think we've gotten wood it still has tons of microtexture. While paint and possibly primer may indeed benefit from some sanding scratches to grip to, most finishes don't need them.

Your reply clarifies things a lot for me too, thanks.

 

[Jacob]

Can't see why not, its basically the same as a number 4 just longer and heavier....

Being longer, heavier and wider is what makes it basically very different from a 4 (just in case you weren't being ironical!)

 

[skipdiver]

I'm not one for owning a myriad of planes and will invariably reach for the 41/2 on most occasions as a jobbing joiner, or sometimes a 5. I have hung more doors than i care to remember and the 41/2 will have been employed most times. I would always sand the edge afterwards with 120 grit and take off the arris.

They say to leave a penny for the painter but leaving a keyed surface is important too because invariably, the painter will be along soon with his brush and will just start painting whatever you leave him.

 

[Benchwayze]

I am sure they are better craftsmen than I

Paddy, I've known a few craftsmen from other woodworking disciplines re-train as furniture makers. Always seemed to me that boat builders brought more inherent skill with them than any of the other trades.

Oh I dunno Custard. I always found it quite easy to produce undulating curved surfaces, and 'sheer', when I was trying for plane and straight! :mrgreen: