toolsntat
Yep, I collect tools and tat
Perhaps a Villa in this sense refers to a holiday home that had a removable (boarded) shutter on the inside while the property was empty?
Cheers, Andy
Gunstock door
- Thread starter johnnyb
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Cheers, Andy
johnnyb
Established Member
No because the villa residence is the drawing of the door with the 2 dismissed stile sidelights. I don't think it's addresses what purpose this door fulfils or what type of house it's on tbh. A villa around this era had a very specific meaning.(middle class, fancy joinery, ornate plaster, nice staircase, half timber effect( all this amounts to huge repair/maintenance/heating bills today) the term villa is also used for the rough1960s council street behind those in my town called "villa close". Don't know the origin though.
johnnyb
Established Member
A Grange is another style from this era.
toolsntat
Yep, I collect tools and tat
Hmmm, thought it odd I couldn't see the Villa text in that section LOL....
References to building types noted, ta.
Cheers, Andy
johnnyb
Established Member
Shhhhh don't mention the r and s word! Same book yes. I've had to do the bottom panels by hand and that's annoyed me if I knew I would have put 3 panels 2 muntins it was 20mm to wide to fit!. No mention of 1/4 mortices on the sash bars. The picture illustrates the issue. Another thing not touched on is how effective the wedges can be in clamping this monster up lengthways. Put the outsides of the outside rails in first. Smash them in evenly until its tight. The put the insides in. Getting around the making of this thing and planing everything flat and even. Worse morticing through the stiles. It could take well weeks. Especially with the inevitable **** ups! I've got 20 oak wedges made to smash in. The glue these things use is amazing tbh.
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johnnyb
Established Member
How did you get on with the casement window btw?
Well it was all done in the end. It was only a test piece to learn how to do it. I’m going to do some real windows and a box sash but I want to make myself a new set of sash planes first. I’ll get back to windows in the spring.
I found that book really difficult to follow The rod really helped me work it out.
johnnyb
Established Member
What I'll will say is the drawings are not very clear. The rod is on the diminished stile is really like deciphering hieroglyphs! But my method was quite ponderous tbh. The glazing bars were all done by hand as well. Took me three days altogether and I'll need a few hours for making the panels(also all hand work. Apart from the rebates. For these I will run the block over work so any waste can be planed of to leave everything flush.
johnnyb
Established Member
I like that detail at the bottom of the frame doug. Looks like stonemasonry. Rebated not grooved. I'm very conscious the glazing bars are really thin and would rot through in about a second. Has anybody ever used cpes primer?Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) – Make Wood Good
johnnyb
Established Member
That make wood good is quite interesting and can be lumped together with repaircare and timbabuild as similar products. They ( smiths) are promoting it slightly differently to the other 2(who seem in direct competition) they are saying the penetrating epoxy is the key, both as a primer and rot repair. The filler is given less push. Repaircare is stupid expensive at £55 for maybe 400ml. Timbabuild is £34 for 400ml and the cpes fill it is£43 for 355ml. The penetrating epoxies are cpes are £46/litre, timbabuild £17 300ml, repaircare £63 for 300ml.
It's obvious repair are is the most expensive on both timbabuild is cheapest. Cpes is in between but cheaper for the penetrating epoxy.
It's obvious repair are is the most expensive on both timbabuild is cheapest. Cpes is in between but cheaper for the penetrating epoxy.
johnnyb
Established Member
They aren't identical products repaircare seems more flexible than timbabuild. Maybe better for long life but much harder to sand( the fillers.)repaircare penetrating is so expensive many many Dec's just use the filler possibly defeating it's effectiveness. Anyway I'm gonna buy some cpes to try out.
johnnyb
Established Member
johnnyb
Established Member
Oh I also phoned a lady about a stained glass course at amerton farm near Stafford. Turns out she is running a course this coming Tuesday Wednesday. And nobody's booked yet. I immediately booked on thinking 1 to 1 tuition may be just the ticket. Its making a hanging panel.
johnnyb
Established Member
It's not a gunstock door, it is an ordinary door with gunstock shoulders on the middle rail. Years ago, I made a joiner's shoulder square from a pattern seen in one of George Ellis's woodworking books. I decided to make it out of stainless steel and slightly different from George Ellis's in that is double-sided. Hopefuly, through the attached pictures, you will be able to fathom out how it works.Had to look at this thread just to find out what a gunstock door looked like.
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@schnapps95 OK oh enlightened one for us not so knowledgeable show us what a gunstock door should look like.
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
It needs to be bourne in mind that these types of books are only intended as an aide memoire, to supplement detailed practical instruction given by a master to their apprentice.
Using them as the sole source of instruction is bound to end in confusion and error.
The door looks amazing BTW.
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