TS blade guard

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Steve Maskery

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Hi all,
For some time I've been thinking of making a better blade guard for my TS. It's a trad conventional crown guard, cast metal and bright yellow for visibility but its good points stop there really.

I fancy trying to make a SUVA-style guard mounted on the back rail somehow, but I want it small and compact.

I was wondering if anyone else is thinking of doing the same and would be interested on collaborating on a design, or at least swapping ideas?

On a related note, this simple guardby Charles Neil looks like a useful addition for anyone with an old saw that is unguarded. I found this video clip as he is using the same principle for cutting thin strips as I use in my jig. It comes up in Related Videos.

Cheers
Steve
 
Ah, excellent! Right idea, I was hoping to make it more compact. Is there a reason why it has to be so high up in the air? When not in use my TS sits against the wall underneath some shelves. That would get in the way.

S
 
Hi,

Steve I thought you might like to know that I have chosen to redesign and build a blade guard with improved dust extraction for my technology A level. Would you be interested in seeing the guard as it comes together and then eventually the final piece?

regards,

michael
 
slemishwoodcrafts":3ddp87xx said:
Steve I thought you might like to know that I have chosen to redesign and build a blade guard with improved dust extraction for my technology A level. Would you be interested in seeing the guard as it comes together and then eventually the final piece?

I'd love to see your improved dust extraction, but whilst you're redesigning crown guards, can you add a couple of extra safety features for me.

1. Install some lighting inside the crown guard to illuminate the blade - The lights will be on all the time that the blade is spinning (regardless of when the 'off' button got pressed) - I believe a fairly large proportion of TS accidents happen whilst the blade is spinning down, because the TS user stops being careful once they've hit the 'stop' button and then moves in to collect the cut bits of timber.

2. Compressed air blast from the time the 'stop' button is pushed until the blade stops spinning. There's a couple of reasons I want this... Firstly, because it will (hopefully) push small offcuts away from the blade, removing the temptation to grab them with my fingers, secondly the feel of the air rushing past my hand might make me realise the blade hasn't stopped spinning just yet, and thirdly, it'll clear away any sawdust from the table which I'd have to do anyway.

Cheers,

Fecn.
 
hello gents,
you might find one of the guards on the scott and sargent website of interest - the guard is mounted on a parallel arm to the side of the machine, the arm forming the extractor pipe and parallel motion mounting. The info provides measured drawings too ! try link or search on CX450 circular saw guard

www.machines4wood.com/mall/departmentpa ... /81067/1/1

regards, Catface.
 
just started on the coursework last week. had to analyse 7 different guards. I used the axminster one, the exactor hood from rockler, the beisemeyer guard and several manufacturers sent me info regarding theirs.

Hope to move into the shop next week! this is the first I will be allowed to use the bandsaw despite using one since I was 13!!

keep you posted as things develop

michael

ps. I am 16 at the minute
 
Steve,

I am also very interested in this one.

There have been some good ones in FW.

Square mdf telescopic tubes hung from roof, Pulley counterweights, DX goes up tube.

Soil pipe hinged from roof at an angle, " " " ".

One of my students made a rather magnificent but heavy adjustable Key Clamp one supported from roof.

The price of the commercial ones seems ludicrous but if time charged perhaps cost becomes less unreasonable.

Best wishes,
David Charlesworth
 
I myself would like one but when you think about it, to collide with a blade guard would not give you much protection the blade must easily slice through any plastic protection.

I'm thinking along the lines if you should trip and hands go sailing through the air and land at the wrong place.

I work in a garage that has crossed ceiling joists and have noted that Sturdee (ubeaut) hmself knocked u p one with an overhead suspension system using those beams.

Look forward to seeing postings on guards of this sort.
 
lord Nibbo mentioned that he had to cut the top of the riving knife so it was below the top of the saw blade. My PK200 has an adjustable riving knife, the two securing bolts run in elongated slots, which allows a range of adjustment. The riving knife also has a scale showing the height of exposure, although I am not sure this is of any practical use. Two things, I am surprised that riving knifes are not adjustable on some machines, and could the fixed ones be modified with slots to enable a reduction in height when required for use with the tenoning jig. I guess this may be related to a safety issue, but I would have thought that maintaining the knifes original dimensions would be more satisfactory.
 
Dog, thanks for that - I'd seeen it before but then lost it and couldn't remember where. Bookmarked now!

The basic problem that I have with all these overhead systems is that they require the position of the saw to be fixed, and I have to move mine around. So I want something completely self-contained. I'll even sacrifice DX for that, although, of course, I'd prefer both.

I do have some ideas, I'll spend an hour or two with SU and see what I can produce.

S
 
Just a prototype............

DSC00186.jpg
 
This is the sort of arrangement I have in mind.

The support arm is fixed at the far end of the back rail and comes over the table resting on the fence. I'd make some sort of easy-run support on the top of the fence, so that the fence can still be moved easily under the arm - low-friction plastic or something like that. Maybe V-shaped to add a bit of rigidity to it too.

yr2bgl.jpg


I want it to be as low-profile as possible because the saw sits against the wall when not in use, and there is a set of shelves above which I don't want to have to move.

All comments suggestions and ideas gratefully received, and if anyone wants the SKP file, just ask.

Cheers Steve
 
The far end and near of the guard would need to rise 75mm+ or drop down to the table to at least 3mm.
Your guard looks like it might pivot but might not be satisfactory?

The rise might be better accommodated at the point where it jons your table rail.
 
This is one I made, might give you a few ideas...

STA70576Large.jpg


STA70565Large.jpg


First attempt but didn't swivel out of the way...

DSCF0002-1.jpg
 
Steve, I can understand your need to keep it compact due to the location where the machine is stored and I can see you have a good plan in mind but how will you extract the dust, via the extraction port of the table saw body or do you have something else in mind ?
 

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