Tenon shoulders, more advanced...

[rogxwhit]

Where I come from it's called a templet.

Isn't that a small temple?

 

[D_W]

Not really.
You get the idea if you google - with lots of variations and some confusing explanations.



a joiner's rod - Google Search

Ahh...somewhere between a story stick, project list and template. Makes sense.

 

[Jacob]

full size drawings( even just the relevant dimensions represented as lines measured from the end) are the way I figure stuff that's a bit confusing in your brain. say you need to make t and g to fit into a door with 5 exactly subdivided planks. ( including some slack.)

Same idea but even more complicated - 12 or 16 pane sash windows or on one occasion a 20 (5x4) you can draw up the rod so that every pane is exactly the same size, knowing that whichever order you do the work everything will fit. You could cut the glass first if you wanted to and you know it would fit.
Or a chest of drawer might need a rod for the front with the different drawer sizes and make drawers first, or the carcase, etc.

 

[Jacob]

Ahh...somewhere between a story stick, project list and template. Makes sense.

Nope. Simple a full size fully detailed sectional drawing, or plan drawing depending on what you are doing. Would include component details and clearance gaps, mortice and tenons etc. You could even pencil in for hinges, fixtures and fittings etc
Some details might be left out if not needed for the mark up.
Just like the full size drawings an engineers would put together. The difference for woodworkers is that you lay the work pieces on the actual drawing and take the marks straight off

 

[D_W]

Nope. Simple a full size fully detailed sectional drawing, or plan drawing depending on what you are doing. Would include component details and clearance gaps, mortice and tenons etc. You could even pencil in for hinges, fixtures and fittings etc
Some details might be left out if not needed for the mark up.
Just like the full size drawings an engineers would put together. The difference for woodworkers is that you lay the work pieces on the actual drawing and take the marks straight off

I got the full sized part from the video - the story sticks are full size, but they lack the space to put the rest of the details. I get the sense that this is an all in one kind of guide and pattern that can be taken to the site on one board that anyone could read, and scaled at full size so that people don't get stuck screwing things up converting sizes?

I don't mind proportions from smaller patterns, but when I buy a new set of guitar patterns, which sometimes are small to save on printing costs, I never buy a set that isn't full size.

Concrete men and masons here used to do the same thing. All site patterns were full size. Different than a rod, but same idea. If you have everything marked out and you lay it out, then it comes out right. Most of that kind of work now is off of plans with digital measuring stuff - it must be a little faster, but it also seems like anyone I know who's had a new house built or 6 figure landscaping done, something is always screwed up and it's not subtle.

 

[Jacob]

I've got a theory about the name "story stick" which is that the one place where you'd need to record a story height, from say ground floor to first floor, would be for making a staircase. n.b. this would be from first floor to level of foot of stair on ground floor as the floor might not be level. You could then divide this by number of risers into height of risers, by maths or by geometry, and you have established one basic dimension.
Works the same if you have landings, turns , tapered steps etc - the risers continue through.

Another story stick might be for Georgian style room where working vaguely to classical orders and you'd have a height for skirting, dado rail, picture rail, cornice, door top architraves etc all marked up on a handy stick.
Just a theory!

 

[aet1]

Same here. It is better. Easier to get a straight line as you drop the heel into it from starting at the far side. Neater too - start with a back pull on the far edge and then keep the blade in it as you bring the kerf back. Cut down to the line then turn it, drop the saw into the kerf and finish the cut.
It means that all your cuts are into an existing kerf, and guided by it, and at no point is the saw cutting its way out of the workpiece, with the added risk of spelching out.
Those dudes in the museum are just actors.
Re tenon cheeks - supposing that your marks for the mortice (which you cut first) are spot on with the mortice chisel, and your tenon marks with the same gauge, then saw tenon cheeks, ideally with a rip tooth tenon saw but not essential. Has to be sharp and with a good set so you can keep it on the line - then "split" the line, with a bias towards removing the line rather than preserving it. This is because any error adding width to the tenon makes it a tight fit, small error the other way no problem

I didn't know there was a different way than this. I got told off getting a chisel anywhere near a tennon.