table saw woes

[jorgoz]

Hi,

I own one of those chaiwanese table saws, http://www.buitelaar.nl/comasy/templates/product.aspx?contentid=237&productid=1418 and have some alignment problems. Looks a lot like a SIP 10' saw.

The saw blade is not parallel to the mitre slots by about half a milimeter. Doesn't seems a lot, like the folks from Holland pointed out, but it seems there not wood workers and .5mm makes a difference.

Can anyone tell me how i can allign the saw with the slots ?

Normally it's 2 pairs of bolts that holds the saw/motor assembly, but i would like some feedback on the issue. If it's to much of a hassle, i'm quite keen on the deft t30 8)

Another prob with the table is that it's all but flat. It's made up of 3 pieces, the main top and 2 extensions. The top is crowned, the 2 extensions are drooping. Maybe this can be solved with shims ?

 

[OLD]

Your link does not work.
The sip saw is adjusted by loosening bolts that clamp the drive to the table there is play available to move it to the correct position.Do not tighten to hard as the bolts thread into cast iron. The tables can deflect a small amount so you can clamp where level and try to 'bend and clamp where not the front of the table is the most important.

 

[head clansman]

hi jorgoz

when you feed a piece of timber through your saw does it bind while cutting the timber ?, does it come through without binding on the riving knife? is it parallel it entire length after being cut & while cutting does it try to move off the gaurd at the back end of the timber whilst cutting .?hc

 

[Schummie]

Maybe this link is better: http://www.buitelaar.nl/comasy/template ... uctid=1418
Indeed I heart not a lot good story about this saw.
The photos:

They have also this one:

and this one:

Success Schummie

more photos on the website

 

[jorgoz]

It's the top one in shummie's post, hoe bolt die deft t30 van jouw ?

i made a crosscut sled and when cross cutting the ends get burned on the back side, coming past the end of the blade.

No probs when using the rip fence, i set that up so it's of by a hair or two so i doesn't bind there.

I took of the riving knife , i know, i know... coz i use 2.4 mm saw blades, the knife is 3 mm.

 

[head clansman]

hi

are you by any chance still using the rip fence while using it in cross cut mod with the end of the timber still up against the rip fence ?. on your rip fence is there any adjustment to bring the guard parallel with the blade ?hc

 

[jorgoz]

The crosscut sled runs in the mitre slots.

Not sure about the alignment of the guard, i'll check it out.

 

[head clansman]

hi jorgoz

all is not lost , if no adjustment on the gaurd get a long straight edge place it tightly up against the left hand side of saw blade and measure at the front edge & rear edge of table the distant from edge of the straight edge to the gaurd if there is the slightest difference in measure ment adjust under the table the bolts holding the arbour but don't over tighten when tightening up again doing this will bring the saw blade parallel with the gaurd but it may mean that what you made is now in need of adjustment as well , good luck .hc

 

[jorgoz]

Ok, the saw is now parallel to the slots but now i found a problem with the left slot.

It not equally wide along it's entire length, it's narrower towards the middle. i'll get a file out.

And it's possible to adjust the riving knife, but it's a high profile knife only and i make a lot of non through cuts.

I'm trying to make it to works a good as possible but i'm definitely looking for an upgrade table saw.

 

[OLD]

You can buy a riving knife from SIP approx £7 and cut it down/extend the slot and thats your problem solved .

 

[jorgoz]

Not exactly solved. The saw blades is use are only 2.4 mm, the riving knives are mostly 3 mm.

 

[Digit]

Not exactly solved. The saw blades is use are only 2.4 mm, the riving knives are mostly 3 mm.

They are SIP clones alright and I had all you problems with mine.
I sorted the slot binding with a long straight edge and some emery strip. The blade can be set accurately to the slot as stated above.
I also found that the riving knife did not align with the blade from back to front not vertically, but it can be adjusted.
I also use a sled and thin blade, but with the riving knife removed. For safety you must align the slot and blade to prevent both binding and inaccuracy.
Quite a lot of work but I found it worthwhile and am very happy with the results.
I can now cut mitres and tenons without difficulty.
As regards the wings etc not being flat, I agree, but I have not found that to cause any problems. On my saw the L/H wing is now my router table and the slots take my overhead router.

Roy.